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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: New Aluminum Mendel completed - 12 years ago
I have only used PLA but from what I read there is no good reason to go for ABS, the fumes alone would mean you have to take your printer out to the shed One of the main things I like about the heated bed - apart from no having to replace the tape every print - is the super smooth bottom side to whatever you print instead of the tape texture. You have unlimited y-axis space for the extruder so Iby Wired1 - Look what I made!
Re: New Aluminum Mendel completed - 12 years ago
How big is this thing? I think you might regret not having a heated bed but there is always room to improve it as you go.by Wired1 - Look what I made!
Re: Stuff I printed - 12 years ago
Yes I'm building a MendelMax 1.5 also - the major difference is the Z motors are down the bottom but a lot of other parts are redesigned from the earlier models. I heven't decided what to use for x-ends yet but I just bought some acme rods and nuts so that is a start. I will use a different x-carriage and extruder to what you printed also, but these things are a lot like Harleys - everyone is uniby Wired1 - Look what I made!
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
I have just ordered the rods, 2 x 10mm and 4 x 8mm, all 500mm chromed hardened linear rod etc. plus 4 x SC8UU for the y-carriage, 4 x LM8UU for the X-carriage and 4 x LM10UU for the X ends. Came in at USD$81 which is $100 in our money today. I'll let you know how they look when (if) they arrive in three weeks timeby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
They look like the best option for the price, anyone tried ball threads? Probably too coarse and they don't seem to make small diameters.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: SC8UU & SC10UU linear bearing blocks - 12 years ago
Yes I did eventually look them up on Aliexpress too and have saved a few options. They do look easy for the Y-axis but I'll probably stick with LM10UU's for the Z and LM8UU's for the X. Just wondering if anyone had used them before.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
I'm pricing 10mm rods for the Z and 8mm for the X and Y in chrome precision hardened linear rod, looks like it's quite affordable so I'll let you know how that goes. Next up are the lead screws and nuts - not a lot of info on these. I'm guessing 8mm? and how long? must be about 400mm?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
SC8UU & SC10UU linear bearing blocks - 12 years ago
Anyone here used these on a reprap? looks like an easy carriage build and they aren't all that expensive. Might have to design some x-ends to use them too.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
The 1.5 files come with parts for both sizes so I'll just go for the 10mm ones - it can't be much more for the rod or bearingsby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Pro - 12 years ago
This weekend I rebuilt my x-carriage, I wanted front and rear fan mounts and all the ones out there are on the sides which limits x-axis travel so I bit the bullet and redesigned it to what I want. I also cut the glass to size. I have ordered the final few parts like belts and another Printrboard so in the mean time I'll do some more work on the next project. You can also see my original Pruby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Getting Started In Rotorua - 12 years ago
Put up some photos or a link so we can seeby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
I hadn't got that far ahead in the planning, I guess I was expecting it to be XL or T5 belts and the usual 12 tooth pulleys. My alloy and motors are on the way and I'm slowly printing out all the plastic parts now. It looks like Blacks have all the fasteners except the T-nuts and it looks like they are available from Aliexpress too, just haven't worked out which ones to order. It looks like I haby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
Where are the a 36 tooth pulleys?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
What X-ends are you using Dust?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Stuff I printed - 12 years ago
Great photo thank you, I am building one of these next and will use it for reference.by Wired1 - Look what I made!
Re: Why not glue the glass directly to the pcb heater? - 12 years ago
Are you using PVA glue instead of a heated bed or as well as it? I find the hot bed holds it fast then releases it cleanly when it cools.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Why not glue the glass directly to the pcb heater? - 12 years ago
Thanks, that makes sense - bugger.by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Why not glue the glass directly to the pcb heater? - 12 years ago
Well, why not? I guess it works for me as I am using PLA with a bed temperature of 60 degrees C, not sure they make adhesives that can take the ABS bed temperatures. Reason I'm thinking of this is I haven't removed my glass for so long now it seems pointless to have to use those annoying bulldog clips - they only get in the way of larger prints. The printer I am currently building will have a prby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Anyone building a mendelMax? - 12 years ago
So thinking about machine design now. The standard frame size is 300mm wide (x), 420mm deep (y) and 340mm diagonals (z-ish) for a build area of 215x235x190mm. To get any bigger than this I would have to make my own hotbed and I like the pcb ones I am currently using so I will stick with the stock size. It looks like the 1.5 is the latest version anyone know of any improved parts worth includingby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Start/end g-code - 12 years ago
Thaks for that, just what I was missing. This is my setup now: Before print M140 S60 ;set bed temp, no wait. M104 S190 ;set hotend temp, no wait. M116 ;waiting for both temperatures G28 ; home all axes G1 E4.0 ; prime extruder G92 E0 ; zero extruder length After print 28 X0by Wired1 - Slic3r
Re: Start/end g-code - 12 years ago
Ok thanks for that - I was looking at the print and filament tabs No it is not ticked, and it still rewinds after manual priming when you start a print. The only way I have found to stop it is to prime it then turn the printer off and close Pronterface then reopen Pronterface and turn the printer back on. Even the reset printer button isn't enough. Another solution is to print two or three perimby Wired1 - Slic3r
Re: CAD Software Recommendations - 12 years ago
I've been using Heekscad for a couple of months now and there is very little it won't do. Tried Openscad and found it to be overly text based and difficult to use. I originally trained on AutoCad 20 years ago and do find their approach to GUI instinctive which is probably why I like Heeks, but these days I am looking for a free license and I cannot justify the cost of Autodesk products for hobbyby Wired1 - General
Re: Start/end g-code - 12 years ago
Cefiar Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In Slic3r, go to the Printer & Filament tab and > make sure 'Use relative E distances' is unticked. > > If it is unticked, also make sure your machine > type is correctly set (remember, machine type > refers to your electronics, NOT to the physical > machine you have) Not sure if this is in reply tby Wired1 - Slic3r
Re: Start/end g-code - 12 years ago
Yes good thanks. Does this mean there is a newer version of Slic3r out? the pictures in the guide look different to what I see when it is running.by Wired1 - Slic3r
Re: Start/end g-code - 12 years ago
Can't get that link to work. Will try again later and see if it is fixed. One weird problem I have is if I prime the hotend manually with Pronterface - ie click on the "extrude" button repeatably until PLA comes out the end - then start a print, the printer starts by rewinding the number of advances I did to prime it. It is a pain in the butt. The only solution is to turn the printer off and rreby Wired1 - Slic3r
Re: Printable y-axis carriage - 12 years ago
Version 3 works really well.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Pro - 12 years ago
Thanks gary, it's a bit experimental but it is getting there. I am onto my third one-piece y-carriage design now and this one works nicely. It does take five hours to print and took over 6m of PLA but once it is printed it does away with most of the bits and pieces between the heater and the rails. Got my thumb height adjusters in and working too so tweaking it should be easier than my current prby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprap pro mendel - 12 years ago
How goes this project?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: trouble in paradise - 12 years ago
Pretty sure Vik sells them Diamondageby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa Pro - 12 years ago
Got it all together today, just waiting for a few remaining parts to arrive now.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group