Threaded rod lengths are as follows: End frame triangles: 370mm x 6 Top cross members: 470mm x 2 Z-stabiliser: 380mm x 1 Lower cross members: 330mm x 4 Plus the lead screws not cut yet - I have bought some stainless threaded rod for these in the hope it is straighter than the zinc plated steel ones. Smooth rods: Y-axis: 400mm x 2 X-axis: 430mm x 2 Z-axis: 350mm x 2 7by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Started building my second printer this week, it's a blend of the rock steady Prusa with Mendel Pro rod lengths and some other improved parts from thingiverse and some I have designed. I printed out all the parts on my original Mendel Prusa in stunning yellow and have so far got the basic frame together and squared up. I am also using the x-carriage, x-motor and idler designed by Jonaskuehlingby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Do the acme leadscrews make much improvement over a standard threaded rod?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
OK So I've ordered all the aluminium extrusions and t nuts from china. I might have ordered the wrong nuts but I've only ordered 30 of them so far because I misread the bill of materials, so I'll wait and see if they are right when they arrive. I'm still building a large scale prusa so I'm not short of things to do while I wait. Next issues are the x and y slides and the lead screws and nuts. Thby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Someone tell me about these please. Looks cheap and if it was good it would be .... er good. Just noticed it needs stepper drivers. More info hereby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
OK placed an order and dealt with the chinese translated chat room about shipping. All up cost me US$60 for 6m of extrusion. They say 1-2 months delivery so I'll check in when/if it arrivesby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Sorry, replied to the wrong thread too many pages open at once. Anyone seen a 9" x 9" heated bed anywhere?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Awesome info Blair - how come the price difference is so great between the two links you posted? the second one is freight free too.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Probably best to stick with Reprap specialist for parts. A lot of the bits can be sourced locally from this site or with a little searching, just put up a wanted ad and see who rocks up. Hopefully someone in Wellys?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The guy in the States says he can ship three for the price of one but that would push the price over the GST free limit so not really an option.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The latest Mendel Prusa seems fairly bullet proof: Mendel Prusa on Github but there are numerous alternate parts on thingiverse.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Thanks Dust, looks like you have done the leg work already. The t-nuts at $1.08 each is a bit of a downer. The attraction for me of the MendelMax is the engineered rigidity and the possibility of improved resolution/print quality. I am mid-project building an oversize Mendel Prusa cum Mendel Pro at the moment so I'll see how long my enthusiasm lasts.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Where was it stored when you weren't using it?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Can you get the MendelMax extrusions here in NZ? $168 US for these delivered ($208 NZ today)by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I am working on a second printer to get a bigger build area and have been designing and collecting improved parts from Thingiverse. I like the look of the Mendel pro and from what I can see it shares a lot of parts with the Prusa I currently have but is wider, so my plan is to use the rod lengths listed in the Mendel pro and build an oversize Prusa. My standard Prusa struggles to print the full 2by Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
From what I have seen it looks like a lot of the parts are the same as the earlier Mendel but wider and relocated filament feeder. The z-axis drives are 5mm too aren't they? Is it still a 200x200 build area? I never got a bill for the GST by the way so must have sneaked under the threshold.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Or this. I have just made myself a one piece printable y-carriage One-piece printable y-carriage that is as big as you can print so this would hang out from that. The total adjustment only needs to be 1-2mm total so the slop in the screws would compensate for the slight angle in them as they tilt. The top springs are just to allow the hotend to nose dive into the bed without damage, the bottom onby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
Love the servo idea but my bed doesn't need to be aligned every print. I am on a quest to maximise the print area so I am thinking of countersinking the bed screws into an aluminium subframe and mount the pcb-style bed heater above it. I want my glass print surface to have 210mmx210mm and to do that it needs to run over the pcb heater mounting screws. I plan to glue a sheet of 210mmx210mm glass dby Wired1 - General Mendel Topics
How is the printer build going? I'd like to see some photos if you can tear yourself away from the build. Did you get it with electronics and if so, what does it come with?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Improved my fan design for use with a better x-carriage. Download here:by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
This works really well, does away with awkward belt clamp adjuster and gives you accurate belt tensioning. Now I'll have to make one for the x-axis Files here:by Wired1 - Look what I made!
Version 2 came out better, thicker walls and LM8UU clamps.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I need to read all the Marlin libraries and see where the cockup is. It is a known fault I see from searching this forum. Seems you can get around it by not using the y-axis limit switch but that kinda makes it a pain to set up - you would have to manually position the start point. I am not sure if using sprinter firmware works with SD support but if it does it would be a clear sign it was just aby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Mouse pad? coaster? I know it's not art but I like itby Wired1 - Look what I made!
Fixed the firmware and it now prints 200 on Y and 190 on X. Once I rotate the extruder it will print 200 on X as well. Got side-tracked trying to get the SD card reader working with Printrboard and Marlin, what a pain in the butt. The y-axis end switch shares a pin with the SD support so you can't run one with the other. I'm building a second prusa at the moment with all the upgrade parts I can sby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Not a lot of information on ths topic. I am running the latest Printrboard and recently bought a micro SD card with the intention of using this feature but when I enable SD support and recomplie marlin, then upload it with Flip it won't connect to pronterface. I have Marlin version 1.0.0 RC2.by Wired1 - General
Ah that might explain the missing 20mm, I'll delve deeper. Update: Yes you are correct, it is set to 180mm x 180mm in the firmware, must fix that then.by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes the x-axis is limited by the print head motor and I can fix that by rotating the printer head to the outer holes, it should then fit around the fan and I guess that's what the spare holes are for in the carriage. The y-axis is getting better as I fine tune the position of the microswitch. But even with these things maxed out, pronterface (and the composer in slic3r) both show 200mm square bedby Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have discovered that I can only print about 180mm x 180mm on my 200x200 print bed and it looks like 100mm high. How big are you guys getting? I just printed out something measuring 175 x 160 and I had to adjust the start point to fit it in. Shouldn't I be able to get the full 200x200?by Wired1 - New Zealand RepRap User Group