Yeah Germany. The local customs work out to a 50/50 chance in the long run for me. (And my old V5 hotend broke, and I wanted to get back into printing and prevent the issue at the same time, hence the emphasis on prompt delivery. Well, that went well... ) I bought it from the later shop you mentioned.by tprime - General
> I have to call BS on "J-Heads are a tiny bit > hard to source in europe" > firstly, reifsnyderb charges 3.75$ for > international shipping and the actual hotend is > 54,99$ > > I too live in Europe, and have yet to see a source > offering the hotend and shipping cheaper Depends on how you define 'tiny bit hard'. Dealing with customs (+19% price increase here) andby tprime - General
Thank for chiming in Brian - I appreciate all the work you put in designing these! 2. I believe I can exclude. The PTFE liner flushes with the top of the PEEK (no set screw) without forcing it, then there's basically just a plate above it holding it in place. If I take it out, by itself, it slides nicely along the filament. I've also tried adding a tamper with a pencil sharpener, which should giby tprime - General
@Asger: not at all. J-Heads are a tiny bit hard to source in europe - I wouldn't mind it being produced locally, it's an open source design after all. But: I can't get it to flow properly. I've cleaned it twice, tried assembling in serveral times now. My last idea is to wrap the PTFE liner in teflon tape, to exclude that it's leaking - it seems to be pushing a tiny bit of material to the outsidesby tprime - General
The value is probably also stored in EEPROM. Find the EEPROM settings in your RepetierHost (second menu from the left, I believe), and try changing it there.by tprime - Repetier
So I guess it is missing on mine then. Stil ldoesn't quite explain why, if I fix the tubing at the top with a washer it requires so much force. My barrel is 5mm, with a 4.75mm teflon tube - not 6.35/6mm. Drives me nuts Tried pretty much everything I could find in the forums, I am cooling it, I've cleaned the nozzle, it's hot enough, still I can't reliably print faster than 15mm/sby tprime - General
Hello, I've recently purchased a J-head MK/IV (alu, not brass) in europe and have trouble with it having a very high resistance - I need too much force to push out my plastic. The documentation seems to mention a set-screw that's supposed to hold the PTFE in place? Where's that supposed to be located - I can't tell from the pictures, nor find it on my J-Head. The only place I seem to have a gruby tprime - General
Mechanically, that's not too difficult. But the process get's very hard to control - larger parts incure a lot more wrapping.by tprime - General
@Moorloch: Um 'echte' Geometrien zu erzeugen muessen solche 'Durschneidungen' immer über die Modellgrenzen hinaus gehen -> Dein Zylinder muss minimal groesser als der Würfel sein. Sonst klappt nachher auch der Export oder spaetestens das Slicen nicht.by tprime - Software
@Moorloch: Um 'echte' Geometrien zu erzeugen muessen solche 'Durschneidungen' immer über die Modellgrenzen hinaus gehen -> Dein Zylinder muss minimal groesser als der Würfel sein. Sonst klappt nachher auch der Export oder spaetestens das Slicen nicht.by tprime - Software
I seem to remember it's M302. You will need to adjust the PID values for your extruder - but don't worry, it's as easy as saying M302 from a cold extruder, noting the values and sticking them into configure.h Constant temperature is crucial to good extrusion.by tprime - General
Calculation is a good starting point and the order of magnitude seems believable for a non-geared extruder and a large wheel, but the general advice is to calibrate this (simply by measuring the distance extruder->spot on filament (say 15cm), then extruding (slowly) 10cm, then measuring again, and multiplying your steps by the factor (actual/expected). Another factor is that you might be prinby tprime - General
'E steps/mm' - ie. how many steps your extruder motor makes per mm of filament pulled in (not the mm it puts out) would be the main variable to calibrate.by tprime - General
Miguel, that reads as if the board is either not discovered by USB, or it's being connected to another 'virtual' usb port. What do the few last lines of 'dmesg' say right after you've plugged in the board?by tprime - Delta Machines
There's also a lot of experimentation going on in the rostock google group (delta robots 3d printer) about using fishing line instead of the belts.by tprime - General
Those balls have probaly a too small angle, but there are others from Traxx that work very well (slightly different layout) All the interesting rostock discussion is happening over at googe groups thoughtby tprime - General
Also soweit ich weiss ist ein Teflon-support ein ziemliches no-go - der wird, so sagt das Forum, weich...by tprime - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
@Martinz; I remember a blog post about trying to paint oil on top of the supports to get them to split from the main partapart very easily. Fortunatly, to prevent all wrapping, we only need to stay above the glass transition temperature. For ABS, it's still too high for water (105 C), PLA would be ok (60C), but as archistrong has pointed out, that' still plenty dangerous (though I guess the figuby tprime - General
A crackpot idea: Has anybody ever attempted to print in/into water? Like under water printing. Since PLAs density is close to that of water, I could imagine it removing the support issue - and, if the water's heated, wrapping. Obviously, there's a number of obstacles and issues with this approach - PLA absorbs moisture (but I guess, all printed parts will eventually be saturated anyhow) - The nby tprime - General
Your slicer set's those. Or perhaps it uses the slightly newer M104/M116 combination, or even G10. Never the less, this is indeed the target temperature setting.by tprime - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Davon abgesehen halte dich den Schritt von 12V auf 13.5V per 'Netzteil-tuning' fuer recht sinnfrei - das bringt dir max. etwas das Deine Motoren eine minimal hoehere maximal Drehzahl erhalten, bevor sie Schritte verlieren. Und wann erreicht ein RepRap die schon mal?by tprime - Elektrik & Elektronik
There's also an experimental fork for the repetier firmware with delta support in the google group for rostock available now.by tprime - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Remove the safety check in the Marlin.pde, line 1387 or there abouts: if (cartesian <= 0.many_zeros_1) { return }by tprime - Delta Machines
There is also a bug in the firmware that prevents extrusion without some x/y/z movement, I believe. (The safety Cameron mentioned can be disabled with M302)by tprime - Delta Machines
Johan has linked this slic3r configuration from the wiki: I believe you can disable the 'prevent cold extrusion' safety with 'M302'. Changing the offset seems like an easy fix - but I'm not at stage with my Rostock yetby tprime - Delta Machines
Technically, the RAMPS 1.4 has pins for 6 steppers - one for x and y, two for z (same stepper driver ) and two extruders. I'm pretty sure there is no problem leaving the second extruder empty.by tprime - Delta Machines
I've found that very very many parts for a rostock can be found at reprapworld.com - including PTFE tubing, notably excluding the flanged bearings and the assorted screws. (And I'm giving their belts (labeled 'T5') a try, don't know whether they'll work yet). Also, Smalltec seems to be the cheapest supplier I could find for the precision rods - Can't wait for my parts to arrive So long, Tby tprime - Delta Machines