Does anyone know if there is a local 2020, 2040 Aluminum extrusion distributor in the Tampa Bay area?by peddiparth - General
Thanks for the links Veesta. I am looking for a larger frame dfx that I can cut with a hacksaw myself. I was originally going to do a box frame, but I will have to re-work the box frame size, and plastic parts for the box frame myself from scad. (using 1/2" smooth and threaded rods for y-axis). I just purchased a 2'x2' 0.75" birch wood plywood to make the frame and y carriage for $14 from Lowes.by peddiparth - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I am trying to upgrade from prusa i2 (large frame custom design) to prusa i3. Instead of spending money on flimsy plywood frames, I am planning to make my own frame. I have a wood router with me. With a diagram printed and stuck to the 0.75" plywood, I plan to use the router to cut out the frame, y carriage, frame stabilizers, etc. Can I get access to any Prusa i3 rework frame diagram withby peddiparth - General
Hi, I am trying to upgrade from prusa i2 (large frame custom design) to prusa i3. Instead of spending money on flimsy plywood frames, I am planning to make my own frame. I have a wood router with me. With a diagram printed and stuck to the 0.75" plywood, I plan to use the router to cut out the frame, y carriage, frame stabilizers, etc. Can I get access to any Prusa i3 rework frame diagram withby peddiparth - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the same trouble with my large sized heated bed. I am out of my PLA filament, so preparing everything for ABS plastic filament for the first time. My heated bed will not cross 75C as it is larger MK1 version. I have considered clubbing 2 ATX PSU boxes to make a 24V PSU. Then it occurred to me that I can add a 12v PSU in parallel to the D8 output (with a diode) to heat up the bed fastby peddiparth - RAMPS Electronics
I had the same problem with the blank screen. I just flipped the cable connections on the controller and it lighted up with the graphic on starting power.by peddiparth - General
I am very sorry to read about your loss. Please accept my condolences.by peddiparth - General
I am waiting for version 2 of this pen that will be commercially available. Just like the Oculus Rift.by peddiparth - General
Kalani Kirk Hausman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @peddiparth, > > This sounds a lot like the VoxelJet system's "VX > concept" (a powder/binder large-scale continous 3D > printer), which uses an inclined binder > application mechanism to allow continuous > production of 3D models, including the ability > (with an integrated conveyer) toby peddiparth - General
More degrees of freedom for the hot-end to print on uneven (inclined, conical, spherical,etc. ) surfaces will be a good start for reprap evolution. Imagine that you have to print on top of an existing material - say an already printed iPhone case or the head of a plastic model (you already have an stl file for that structure/base). The slicing software creates 2 items. The stand like structure tby peddiparth - General
You must either be from Pakistan or a very afraid that drones will get you some day. Why are you afraid of DoD funding of the project?by peddiparth - General
Thanks davew_tx for the circuit diagram confirming the simplified setup. I assumed that I need to either use a customized signal from ramps or change settings (in Marlin) to lower current in signal to the relay from ramps.by peddiparth - General
Thanks for the info Chelsea. How would you connect this 12"x12" rubber bed to RAMPS v1.4 and a relay? If you can post a circuit diagram, that will be very helpful.by peddiparth - General
Thanks for the info davew_tx. I will finally be able to use my Bosh relays for this purpose. Could you please elaborate on how you connect your automotive relay to the input from Ramps 1.4 and the 12V 30A power supply?by peddiparth - General
Could anyone recommend a large size (12"x12") heated bed that reaches 110C for printing with ABS plastic? I have built my own 15"x12" heated bed that is only good for PLA printing at 60C. It has hot zones and cold zones that causes printing problems with large prints.by peddiparth - General
I have attempted slicing the Pi Command Center on thingiverse with horrible results with v0.9.7. Re-slicing it with v0.9.3 results in a much more acceptable gcode. Both versions create these additional travel that drips PLA extrusion on top of solid layers causing a messy print. I hope that can be fixed. The Bread_Top.stl sliced with the latest version contains multiple bridge layers that shouby peddiparth - Slic3r
Sublime Wrote: > This is your problem. There should be nothing for > it to catch on. If there is that means you have a > gap between the ptfe and heater barrel. Actually, this is a Budaschnozzle v1.2 problem as there is a small gap between the hot-end and wades extruder. I have tried using a small (custom) 1/2" PTFE tube with 3mm hole to plug this gap.by peddiparth - General
You might be running your hot-end too hot. Try running it at 185 to 190C. Also running a fan on the PTFE portion of the hot-end will keep the filament cool till it reaches the metal portion. PLA expands when it is heated, so you want to avoid this expansion in PTFE section to avoid clogging. If you get a clog in PTFE, there is no point pushing it in as the problem will persist. It is best to pulby peddiparth - General
I am using Buda v1.2 at 187C (3mm Silver PLA from ProtoParadigm) and 190C for first layer. I think I left it open (hot at 187C) for a minute when I had the problem. I suspect (do not remember) the fan was off that time. I was plagued by bad filament issue with a previous vendor (OnlineFilament.com) who shipped PLA filament to humid FL in a tattered plastic bag. That filament was always getting stby peddiparth - General
I learned my lesson the hard way. I tried some bad filament that got stuck in my budaschnozzle hot-end. I used my old trick of heating the hot-end to pull the PLA filament out at the top. For some crazy reason, I left the heat on for a few seconds and tried inserting the new filament in. The hot vapors/air from the hot-end heated the PTFE tube in the meantime. When it came in contact, it meltedby peddiparth - General
The filament I got from OnlineFilament printed fine for the first few prints. But now it has reached a horrible state where filament gets stuck in my brand new Budaschnozzle v1.2 hot-end. I feel embarrassed to post a failed print with this PLA. I found this other site that was recommended to me by jamesjaz (ebay seller) who sold me Prusa i2 green ABS plastic parts printed with ProtoParadigm filby peddiparth - General
After I printed myself a spool holder, I do not have to clean the hobbled bolt anymore. Cleaning of the hobbled bolt seems necessary when I frequently feed filament sections into the extruder.by peddiparth - General
Silica gel kitty litter is a great inexpensive desiccant that you can buy in bulk quantities.by peddiparth - General
I received my second PLA filament spool from OnlineFilament.com today in a tattered ziplock bag. Since I live in a humid part of FL, I hope the PLA did not absorb moisture during shipment. Thanks for the list of other vendors.by peddiparth - General
If you have an stl file to share, we can tryby peddiparth - General
I am located in Tampa, FL, USA. Since I could not find any local vendors, I have to get my filament online. I am hoping that a community created list of reliable filament vendors per region will help everyoneby peddiparth - General
That is probably not the right thread for my question. Thanks for the info though.by peddiparth - General
Where does everyone buy their filament? I just bought 1kg spool of 3mm silver PLA ($42) from OnlineFilament.com. It's is my second spool from them. I finished my first spool in 2 months. (Update) I am located in Florida, USA. I think (not sure) onlinefilament.com vendor is US based. Are there any other reliable and inexpensive sources of filament everyone uses?by peddiparth - General
I had this problem too with a different hot-end (self made). Hobbed bolt grinds into the PLA filament. The actual problem was that the PLA filament inside the PTFE gets hot and expands. It gets stuck before reaching the hot metal, causing back pressure and grinding of the filament by the Hobbed bolt. Polygonhell is accurate with his diagnosis. Take the hot-end out and test it by feeding it theby peddiparth - General
How frequently does everyone clean their Hobbed-bolt to avoid clogging while using PLA? Is it possible to have an extruder design that auto-cleans the Hobbed-bolt?by peddiparth - General