Cameron, what is your temperature range when you set it to (say) 185C? Does your hot end stay at 185 exactly, or does it overheat and overcool giving you a temperature range?by peddiparth - General
I noticed that when I use 5Ohm 10 watt resistor, hot end temperature varies between 185 and 205C. With 12 volts, I understand that load on 5Ohm goes to 28Watts. If I add 4Ohms of resistors(to keep it below 10Watts on 5 Ohm) in series away from the hotend (due to size restriction), it takes forever to heat up the hot end (5C per min). What is the right balance for sticking to 5C range around 190Cby peddiparth - General
Dremel drill press and chuck with HSS drill bits worked like magic. I used coconut oil for coolant. I did not have much luck with the bow string idea as I did not get a good grip with the tiny #80 HSS drill bit. Wobble was also a problem I faced with that size drill bit.by peddiparth - General
HSS drill bits is a great idea, and so is the dremel chuck. If the nozzle hole ideas work, I can probably sell a few $35 hot ends as end product on ebay to make up for the cost of the tools.by peddiparth - General
Thanks xiando, I am planning to invest in a dremel drill press before I break any more drill bits.by peddiparth - General
I have just broken 3 pcb (dremel) drill bits trying to drill a 0.35mm hole in a brass bolt. Is there a trick to doing this successfully? What should be the length of the hole to avoid breaking the drill bit?by peddiparth - General
I built my Prusa i2 with each threaded rod a few inches longer than the design (triangle 18.5", x=18", z=17.5"). The end result is print bed size a little larger than 10"x14". There are some minor design changes too. My y endstop is placed beyond the frame with one y smooth rod extending out of the frame (on top of it). Its easy to scale Prusa up a little. So long as you do not double its size,by peddiparth - General
A quick update, the ebay seller "reprapdiscount" shipped two pololu drivers for free. Nice guy. Replacing the damaged driver resolved the Z axis issue altogether All axes are running smoothly now.by peddiparth - Reprappers
Thanks for the clarification nophead and aplavins. I have ordered 5ohm 10watt aluminum encased resistors just in case of this situation. PWM does not seem to compensate for the actual current flowing thru the resistor causing the overheat issue. Oh well.by peddiparth - General
I went thru this problem myself. The first mistake I made is that I bought AWG 18 gauge wire. This caused lots of issues with crimp connectors. I finally mounted my RAMPS1.4 to the frame using a wood board, and switched to AWG 22 gauge (22/4 shielded security wire). This wire is easy with crimp connectors. It does not matter where you mount the electronics so long as the wires do not move relaby peddiparth - General
I am a noob and am building my first Prusa v2 (3" bigger). I decided to try out my ideas for a hotend. I have failed with the first TWO designs, so I am trying to figure out what went wrong with my hotend. The first version's design issue was that it was massive. I did not even try heating it up as I used a bolt coupler for Aluminum block. I fixed the issue by switching to copper CPU heatsink.by peddiparth - General
I am in the process of building my first prusa v2. I am having a similar problem with two of my pololu drivers. The z axis is not working, but x, y, e axis work ok. I tried swapping z stepper motor connectors with y, and y has the same issue, but z works. I reverted back to the original setup, but now I swapped the pololu drivers of z and y axis. Now, z works fine but y has the same issue. Itby peddiparth - Reprappers