you are just over extruding a bit. Under Filament Settings>Filament>Extrusion multiplier, if it is set to 1, reduce it to .99, .98, .97 or where you get the results you want. If you go too low, you will start to get weak prints with gaps.by Dirty Steve - Printing
They are Z threaded rod support/stabilizers. I recommend not using them as they are a known cause of Z-wobble.by Dirty Steve - Reprappers
reverse the wire leads for your thermistorby Dirty Steve - Printing
On my machine I certainly can't pull a 0.25mm layer with a 0.25mm nozzle. In the second photo, looking at the first layer, that result is most certainly not right for a first layer.by Dirty Steve - Printing
It may say that in the manual, but you still can't do a properly printed 0.4mm layer with a 0.4mm nozzle. Your second layer is not sticking correctly because your first layer is incorrect.by Dirty Steve - Printing
reduce the extrusion multiplier in your slicerby Dirty Steve - Reprappers
I haven't seen one yet, but you could modify a paste extruder : Problem would be cure time, most resins and hardeners take time to cure and hold shape, most would puddle out after extrusion. With bondo, it would be a bit hard to get the ratio right, but maybe something with a 1:1 mix ratio resin/epoxy would be easier.by Dirty Steve - General
Have your bed at 110c for the first layer, then drop it down to 80-85c. This will reduce the inward curve of your vertical walls.by Dirty Steve - Printing
Turn down your first layer height. You can't do a 0.4mm layer with a 0.4mm nozzle. Extrusion width for the first layer should be 100%, and if you have your first layer set to 1/2 your print layer height, you will get better bed adhesion.by Dirty Steve - Printing
My 0,0 for XY is the lower left corner of the bed, end stops have nothing to do with XYZ step calibrations. With the controller powered off, I run Mach3 from 0,0,0 so where ever I place the nozzle becomes 0,0,0 for the print. Calibrations done with a dial gauge.by Dirty Steve - General
@ElectroWomble E-steps would only change if he switched out the extruder stepper and gears, not the hot end itself.by Dirty Steve - Printing
In Slic3r, under Print Settings>Advanced set Default extrusion width to the same size as your nozzle. There has always been something wrong with Slic3r's auto-calculated extrusion width for me, and manually setting the extrusion width to the same as the nozzle has been the only fix for this for my printer.by Dirty Steve - Printing
I don't use end stops or homing switches at all, you do have to watch the z-axis as to not crash the nozzle into the bed, but have had no real issues without them at all. Running Mach3 with a TB6560 controller, no homing gcode.by Dirty Steve - General
Well, if you're not here to help or learn, don't let the door hit you in the arse.....by Dirty Steve - Printing
Think you are getting the blobs from retraction, but I am not experienced with Bowen set-ups. I get that on my geared extruder when retracting too much due to the print nozzle setting in one spot too long while retracting.by Dirty Steve - Printing
What are your retraction settings? Geared, direct drive, or Bowen extruder set up? Your print also looks like you might be .01 or .02 over-extruding, judging by minor stringing and top surface quality.by Dirty Steve - Printing
I'd say part of your issue is that model itself. I haven't seen a vase before that is stair-stepped in the actual mesh like that.by Dirty Steve - Printing
All this has nothing to do with your hot-end, stop thinking and saying that it does. For your hot end, that you falsely promote as some type of J-head to lure in noobs, to be in actual competition with any other hot end, it would have to be able to handle the same range of materials and have the same durability. If anything you are regressing the 3d printing movement by putting a hot end out thaby Dirty Steve - General
revolutionary....2 or 3 years ago....by Dirty Steve - General
Kyle, if I tell you how to fix your 4 year old extruder design so that it actually can do PLA, will you GO AWAY?by Dirty Steve - General
oh yea, it's Ohioplastics..... and AGAIN, it has nothing to do with your cheap junk hot-end, it's that NO ONE LIKES YOU AND YOUR ATTITUDE AND NO ONE WANTS YOU HERE! By the by, Kyle, who do you think it was that kept requesting your bannings? You got the first one all on your own with your 'Nazi' comments, but I certainly notified admins for your follow up bans.by Dirty Steve - General
I run Mach3 with a 4-axis TB6560 driver board through a parallel port, manual control for hot end and bed. NOT complicated. There is a way to add a 4th axis to your 3-axis TB6560 board, but if it's in your budget, I'd just get a 4-axis board. 400mm/s is way more than fast enough. Most printers best quality prints are between 10mm/s to 60mm/s. Higher speeds are possible, but print quality drops oby Dirty Steve - Reprappers
very much sounds just like Ohioplastics........I have no real idea or clue what I'm doing, so any dumb little idea I have is a 'revolution'.........by Dirty Steve - General
never gonna happen.... not by this guy anyway, not for $1200, and not by using an image of an UP! Mini Printer...by Dirty Steve - General
you sound just like someone..........by Dirty Steve - General
Would be very limited by nozzle/heater block clearances.by Dirty Steve - General
The inward curve at the bottom is most likely from bed heat, drop the bed temp by 20-30 degrees after the first layer. Bulge towards the top looks like your machine may have dropped a step on the Z-axis.by Dirty Steve - Printing
That looks like you are melting your thermal barrier and that you do not have a good seal between the barrier an the nozzle letting print material to flow in between the two. What kind of temperatures are you running the hot end at? I've been running some IC3D 1.75mm filament without any problems like this.by Dirty Steve - Printing
You may get more interest if you show your mock-up drawings, sketches, renders, of your proposed installation and an example of the pieces you are wanting to print for your exhibit.by Dirty Steve - Reprappers