There is a video on Youtube, but I can't find it again because it has some weird title, maybe someone else can find and link it. Copied my reply to the question in "Look what I made" forum thread. Take a clean 1 gallon metal paint can, line the inside with a couple of paper towels and hold them in place with magnets. Soak the paper towels with 2 or 3 ounces of acetone, just enough to soak the paby Dirty Steve - General
There is a video on Youtube, but I can't find it again because it has some weird title. Take a clean 1 gallon metal paint can, line the inside with a couple of paper towels and hold them in place with magnets. Soak the paper towels with 2 or 3 ounces of acetone, just enough to soak the paper towels but not puddle at the bottom of the can. Place the can, open side down, over top of your print siby Dirty Steve - Look what I made!
Odd to see this old post re-visited, but kinda not surprised.by Dirty Steve - General
I'm running a TB6560 driver board, through an LPT printer port, manual control for hot-end and bed powered by the controller's spindle relay for end of print shut down. There is a way to run Mach3 to drive a USB controller but I have no idea what the configuration is or what USB boards it will work with. Check out the Mach3 forum at Mach3 uses "A" instead of "E" for the extruder, If your gcodeby Dirty Steve - Printing
I run only Mach3 on my printer with no issues at all. COMPLETELY usable! The extruder is run as a 4th axis.by Dirty Steve - Printing
Just lower your first layer height a little in your slicer settings.by Dirty Steve - Printing
Set Extra length on restart to 0. Drop Z lift to double your layer height, under Printer Settings>General>Advanced make sure Use firmware retraction is unchecked. 1000mm/s is an undo-able retraction speed. Try dropping it to 10mm/s. When it is suppose to do a retraction, does the extruder motor make any odd noises like it's dropping steps?by Dirty Steve - Printing
what slicer are you using? What are all your retraction settings?by Dirty Steve - Printing
I'd say your temps are too low, and you are not extruding enough material. Have you run any calibration prints? If you are slicing with Slic3r, under Print Settings>Advanced>Default extrusion width, set that value to the same size as your nozzle, you will get much better solid infill.by Dirty Steve - Printing
You are dropping steps, it's just coincidental that it's happened twice at the same layer. If you are not using Z-lift, set it to twice your layer height, and drop your extrusion multiplier by .01 or .02.by Dirty Steve - Printing
you don't need any more z lift than double your printing layer height. Unless you are using a Bowen type extruder setup, your retraction should be about 1mm when your extrusion multiplier is correct. At a 5mm retract you are oozing filament, as the print nozzle remains in one place too long due to the time it takes to retract 5mm.by Dirty Steve - Printing
is your life really this sad Kyle? It has NOTHING to do with hot ends, and everything to do with who you are as a person........ it's not us, it's you.....by Dirty Steve - General
drop your bed temp down to 80-85 after the first layer at 100-110, drop your extruder temp from 240 after the first layer down to 230 or 220. If you have a print cooling fan it will help with the deformation of the print. I print smaller pieces on painter's tape with a brim and no bed heat at all to get my best detail quality. It can also help to print 2,3,4 or more of your part at the same timby Dirty Steve - Printing
high on your temps, if the thermistor is correct. should be about 15 to 20 degrees lower on the hot-end, and 110 for bed first layer then dropped to 80-85 for rest of print. Over temp can cause those distortions. ABS can extrude below 200C, it just doesn't bond to itself at lower temps.by Dirty Steve - Printing
Is that part suppose to be round? If it is, there are a lot of issues with your machine. Current temps?by Dirty Steve - Printing
check the set screws in your X and Y axis drive gears. Print looks like a slipping gear.by Dirty Steve - Reprappers
sure, when it's layed up in a weave. This printing method is only as strong as it's fusable material.by Dirty Steve - General
They are talking some level of hype. While the parts may be stronger with a side directional load, the carbon fiber is being layed down in parallel lines and not being woven. I certainly wouldn't fly any airplane or drive any car with parts made like this. Layer wise, they would only be as strong as the melt-able material the carbon fiber is embedded in.by Dirty Steve - General
carbon fiber in PLA wouldn't do much of anything for strength, carbon fiber strength is in the weave, not parallel threads of material.by Dirty Steve - General
who do you think is getting your IP's banned for you?by Dirty Steve - General
Your bed temp is fine, but you will have better results dropping the temp to 80 after the first layer. Use hairspray, some brands are easier to release after the print finishes than others.by Dirty Steve - Printing
drop your bed temp to 80 after the first layer, and maybe drop your extruder to 220. A 110 bed will actually release easier that at 80, and will cause warping to the perimeter of your print. If you are running a fan, you do not want to over-cool the print, you just want to get the air moving a bit, so a direct high flow fan is too much. Hairspray on glass is a goo thing....by Dirty Steve - Printing
Quotecdru QuoteDirty Steve Stupidest thing ever added to PHOTOshop......If you don't like the feature, don't use it. Having options, even if they are ridiculously priced and ill-suited for the task at hand, is never a bad thing. Adobe was going to screw you on the cost of licensing regardless if the 3D printing option was included or not. That being said, I agree. Maybe Microsoft Sound Recordeby Dirty Steve - General
Stupidest thing ever added to PHOTOshop......by Dirty Steve - General
this tech is very much NOT for all, this part of the hype is getting sooooooo old.by Dirty Steve - General
I rotated one set of the bearings to 90, greatly reduced chatter.by Dirty Steve - General
Going to try 90 degree orientation on one side of the carriage. Running GT2s. Idler is a smooth, lipped bearing. Toothed idler made no differenceby Dirty Steve - General