bobc Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > buildrob Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > @bobc I don't think the Arduino comms bandwidth > is > > the main issue here - it is mainly a CPU > overhead > > issue for advanced features or high speeds. So > I > > don't think that simply using a binaryby plexus - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I don't think that the current FDM approach to desktop 3D printing is where this technology is going to go. at the moment FDM printers are really just a different kind of CNC machine and so the whole G-code thing follows from that. but likely the move will be to take these printers, as "tools" (in the context of a CNC or lathe being a tool) and make them more like "appliances" (in the context ofby plexus - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I tried 3mm tall and got a blob. but 4mm tall and i got resolution! its just just blocky details - you can make out the eyes and look at the toes! i dont think i can do better than this at this point. In the last two pics, the clear frog is 0.5mm nozzle, 500µm layers 2x scale, the green is 0.2mm nozzle 100µm layers and of course our tiny toad 0.2mm nozzle 100µm layers.by plexus - Competitions
Rich, she just wont stick without raft! i wish i could get it to work without it. i will try some more. I run the printrbottalk.com forum and wiki for the Printrbot. i have a PB+ with lots of upgrades. one of the forum members worked out a way to make nozzles and he has been making 0.2mm ones. its pretty astounding, here is his video and thingiverse page. I had him make me this nozzle and its qby plexus - Competitions
Well the contest is over but I got my hands on a 0.2mm nozzle and have better control of extrusion. here is a tree frog in PLA 5mm high and about 9mm long. 100µm layers.by plexus - Competitions
I could care less about chemical safety, so I am not sure. maybe. it looks like there is a PTFE liner. maybe i'll take a wiff and see if anything bad happens.by plexus - General
Ubis hotend. PEEK. so it should be ok <300C. so far no problems printing PS with it.by plexus - General
I have been printing with polystyrene on my Printrbot+. i love it. i plan to get more. it provides a very detailed and well controlled printing experience. its also very white. i've printed the "nautilus gears" in PLA, ABS, PS, Nylon 618 and LAYWOO wood. the print in PS is just lovely, very detailed and precise. its almost as accurate as the PLA print which was the most accurate and smooth movinby plexus - General
The more think I about this suggestion of adding into thermistortables.h the less I understand it. the reason is that I am not going to change the thermistor that is currently installed. so if i create a table (how?) for the thermocouple i used to measure the true temp, how is that going to help considering the same thermistor that is being used now will continue to be used. i could see making aby plexus - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I don't think that's the right route to take. telling the system that its a different sensor than it is could result in very erroneous results. i think it should be set to what the sensor is. I realize that my simple calculation needs to apply to the celsius value before the set temp check. if i set 230C then i need the temp that would normally result from this setting to have 14.94 added to itby plexus - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi there. Im the admin over at printrbottalk.com. I took measurements right off my Ubis hot end nozzle with an Apollo digital thermometer and J thermocouple. I plotted the measurements which I will call "true temp" against those the Repetier-host mac reports back from the Printrboard, called "set temp" (stock revB with the stock Marlin firmware, i think Lincomatic's fork). I worked out a linear fby plexus - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Here is something a little different. going in the opposite direction of "quality". If you've used LAYWOO-D3 then you know that its a challenge to work with because its so sticky and there are particles of wood in the filament. this makes printing small very very challenging. i thought i'd give it a shot. this is the owl printed at 0.5mm layers with a 0.5mm hot end. i kind of like the abstractby plexus - Competitions
I am trying to get this script to work under macOS. i can run it from the Terminal but when I try i get an error: plexbook:3DP plexus$ ./wood.py -i tet-wpy.gcode -o tet-wpy2.gcode -n 180 -x 220 Traceback (most recent call last): File "./wood.py", line 198, in main(sys.argv[1:]) File "./wood.py", line 170, in main temps.append(minTemp + (maxTemp - minTemp) * nn) TypeError: unsupportby plexus - Slic3r
We've started to do this over in our Printrbot wiki/forum:by plexus - Printing
@Richrap I am printing at 230C. is PLA better for small prints? if so, why? I should load in some PLA and try that.by plexus - Competitions
Ok here is my attempt. modified Printrbot+ with ABS. i think i can do better. lots of fine tuning!by plexus - Competitions