Where/how do you get the screen captures? I only see problems as/after I'm printing (using pronterface) - is there an easy way to look at what the g-code is doing beforehand?by Logrod - Slic3r
I had problems uploading for ages with my Sanguinolulu (with 1284P). The solution turned out to be using Arduino 23 and downloading the sanguino extensions from : and placing these in the arduino hardware folder. You also need to copy the new avrdude file into the hardware/tools folder. That will then allow you to select a "Sanguino with 1284P 16MHz" option on the boards menu and after that everby Logrod - Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks for the suggestions guys I'll hopefully give them a try this eveningby Logrod - General
My advice on the heatsHrink is just to cover the wires to the thermistor, I can't see any value in covering the thermistor body with heatshrink. On my hot-end I've used glass rope glue to glue the thermistor in (same on the resistor but wrapped that in one layer of aluminium foil first to make a tighter fit. The thermistor leads are covered with silicon tubing upto the solder joint, then normal hby Logrod - General
I've tried this at different temperatures so I'm fairly certain temperature isn't an issue. I did consider filament slippage but it would be unlikely I'd only be getting it at the Z moves, and the G code still appears strange to me (even if it's right I'd like someone to explain to me why it is as it is)by Logrod - General
Andy, You'll see I've posted in this forum about a print problem I'm having (with a photograph). I'm guessing this is a problem thats been seen lots of times and if there was catalogue of photos I'd be able to scroll though and recognise what I have and then read up on the issues and solutions.by Logrod - General
I'm trying to run calibration prints on my newly built Mendel90 and whilst things are improving there is a long way to go. One of the issues I have noticed on the .5 mm thinwall cube print is that I am getting a vertical band/blob on the corner of the perimeter where the machine starts printing, coupled with (it seems to me) a lack of plastic in the next few mm. (as in the attached photo - prinby Logrod - General
Could the founder of the forum be persuaded to hand over full admin privileges to some responsible individual (such as Traumflug?) by asking nicely? Has anyone ever tried?by Logrod - General
I had problems uploading for ages with my Sanguinolulu (with 1284P). The solution turned out to be using Arduino 23 and downloading the sanguino extensions from : and placing these in the arduino hardware folder. That will then allow you to select a "Sanguino with 1284P 16MHz" option on the boards menu and after that everything has been fine.by Logrod - Sanguino(lolu)
"but my apartment block may as well be in Inner Mongolia" That would explain the -40Cby Logrod - Reprappers
I think it's a great idea. I'm still at the stage of getting my machine to print a calibration object satisfactorily and wondering what I need to tweak to solve each issue - a page in the wikki with pictures and "increase x" would save me time and (when my patience wears thin) save me asking questions on here that have probably been answered loads of times already.by Logrod - General
In config.h there should be a section at the beginning: //// Temperature sensor settings: // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 // 0 is not used // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup) // 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do nby Logrod - Reprappers
Andy-net did you ever progress this? It would be great to have pictures with solutions to compare all my failures toby Logrod - General
Sounds like an issue with either wrong thermistor table selected in firmware or an issue on the thermistor circuit. ( I'm assuming it isn't really -40C, though if it is then it opens up some interesting possibilities for icecream prints using molten icecream in the extruder!)by Logrod - Reprappers
Thanks guys I'll try pause restartby Logrod - Reprappers
Is there an easy way to abort a print in pronterface when it goes wrong so I can just quickly clean off the bed and give it another try without having to set everything up again?by Logrod - Reprappers
I agree the forums are slow and seem to get fairly low footfall. It seems to me it would be better to fix that though rather than encourage everyone to use IRC as that means theres is no record of the problem/solution and the same question probably gets answered hundreds of times on IRC?by Logrod - General
No expert so this is a bit of a guess, but the T /E/W is saying that your hotend temp isn't at setpoint and the W part is saying it isn't able to say how long it thinks it'll take till it gets there and stable. Normally when you set a hotend temp you'll get a W while it's heating up and as it approaches the setpoint it'll start a countdown from 10 (W:10) saying it thinks temp will be stable enougby Logrod - General
If your bed is getting to 90C then it's not a simple question of your power supply not having enough oomph (aka amps) - the bed takes no more power at 90C than it does at 40C. There are two possible issues: 1) Your bed is putting out the design wattage (ie no resistance or voltage issues) but that wattage isn't large enough to compensate for the heat loss to the environment above 90C (the heat lby Logrod - General
@ brnrd Yes I realise ambient is low and as soon as I no-longer need regular access to all the axies I'll be adding an insulated chamber to the printer to provide both a heated chamber plus a way of extracting fumes easily. At some point I want to start playing with chamber temperature (but I need to be able to print first!) so I've allowed for using +5Vand +3.3V to heat resistors. I wanted to sby Logrod - General
Hi Gnomadix, Not done anything since yesterday but going to try Z axis movement with other axies disconnected and then try X or Y connected to Z header / and/or Z connected to X/Y header to see if there is any difference (I know the steps/mm is different for diff axies in config.h but if I'm only using G1 or G28 I don't think it should be a problem) My Z motor cables are soldered together, heatby Logrod - Reprappers
I've just been testing my bed in response to another thread and with a 15.5C ambient, insulation under the bed but nothing surrounding the build I couldn't raise bed temp above 104C even after 40 mins, with an insulated cover for the heated bed I easily got to 110C but dropped to 104C after I took the cover off.by Logrod - General
A Z axis problem is stopping me progressing on my own build (feel free to check my post and tell me what I'm doing wrong), in the mean time I've tested heating times on my heated bed for something useful to do Mk II bed with insulation directly under bed and 2mm glass above bed: Initial room temp 15.5C Time to 60C 4.0 mins Time to 100C (cumulative) 21.5 mins 20 mins later it still hadn't goby Logrod - Reprappers
I have a Z homing issue as well: G28 Z or using Z Home on Pronterface doesn't do anything. When carriage hits Z end stop the motors don't stop but M119 is showing the Z end stop has changed to high so unsure what is happening Mendel 90 Sanguinolulu Marlin Top Z Endstop Both Z motors wired together (probably different wire lengths) into single connector to sanguinolulu Everything else is workinby Logrod - Reprappers
I feel I should issue a "government Health Warning" here - I'm happy to give you my opinions etc but I'm a very inexperienced RepRapper still very much at the start of my own voyage of discovery so don't take every thing I say as correct - get as many opinions as you can Answering the easy question first - yes the Sanguinolulu is the brains and you just connect it to your PC with a USB cable (yby Logrod - Reprappers
Just an aside , the stepper controller you linked originally while often used for CNC isn't used very often for RepRapa as far as I can see mainly due to the fact that you still do most of the processing on your PC with that system rather than on the Sanguino/gen7 /ramps etc, with the commands then being passed down the parallel interface cable. You'd then end up needing to run PC based CAM softwby Logrod - Reprappers
Belt drive is normally used X & Y as it reduces mass and momentum, its less of an issue for Z as normally there is far less Z movement and its all one way (a big difference from traditional CNC) - unless you're building a Rostock- so many designs use screw drive for Z axis. Pololu is a brand of stepper driver (generally well regarded). As Akhlut said you'll need stepperdrivers for each steppby Logrod - Reprappers
I have no link with the vendor of the attached links (other than he sold me stuff for my mendel 90 which worked and answered all the dumb questions I asked) and there are plenty of others but you want something like : orby Logrod - Reprappers
You don't need to understand the detailed electronics , you could buy a presoldered sanguinolulu / gen5 / etc etc and just couple your motors and limit switches up to the board. You'll probably have to do a bit of soldering to get stuff connected but nothing too tricky. Having said that the more you understand about the electronics the likelier you are to be able to sort the problems that you'llby Logrod - Reprappers