I think you guys are making this more complicated than it needs to be. Mounting the hotend with transverse bolts is a bad idea because you can't provide any upward clamping force. This causes the hotend wobble some people see. The original groovemount mounting method used a plate that compressed the hotend into the extruder body. See the attached pic for an amateurish sketch of what it shouldby crispy1 - General
QuoteThose that are involved in Reprap development recognize this forum as ground zero for the movement. Disagree. Ground zero for development is the reprap IRC. Most times this forum is overrun with people asking the same 20 questions over and over again looking for someone to hold their hand.by crispy1 - General
QuoteHowever, this printer is the result of many months of intense R&D and if you look, is a completely different machine. From the pictures on your website it's not immediately obvious this is a completely different machine, as you say. Perhaps some close-up pictures of the areas that are new/different would help us understand what you have done differently than most.by crispy1 - General
No you're not missing anything, they just write better ad copy than most people... And they're also preying on people's ignorance of what already exists a little bit.by crispy1 - General
If you're not overconstraining the rod, being crooked shouldn't matter.by crispy1 - General
I'd be interested in seeing pictures as well.by crispy1 - Developers
It's not a problem in the firmware - I've used Marlin's corexy functionality extensively. Sounds like either your configuration is not correct, or your hardware is not set up correctly. Can't say which with so few details.by crispy1 - General
Quotewhats the obsession with fan-less hotend operation? I think with a good thermal design it's not necessary. In my case it's less about weight and cost (but those are factors), and more about space available on the print head. At the extreme positions of my print head I have less than 6mm to spare between the head and the frame of the machine. Another factor is noise - more fans = more noiby crispy1 - General
Works fine for a few, but how long is that going to take to file them down if you need 100? Something like this works fine as well, and requires much less labor:by crispy1 - General
This artifact is universal across every 3D printer I have seen. Including some very expensive Stratasys machines. One theory I have heard is that it is actually the shaft/magnet assembly in the stepper motor acting as a torsional spring in the magnetic field of the windings, when it is subjected to abrupt changes in speed or direction. Given how universal it is, across many different drive sysby crispy1 - General
You can only constrict the duct on an axial fan about 10% before the fan stalls from the back-pressure. For this reason I prefer centrifugal blowers.by crispy1 - General
Foam is the right idea, but you will need to experiment to find the density that best cancels out the main frequencies the printer emits. I've also found surfaces like plywood seem to act as a resonator and amplify the noise the printer makes a lot more than other surfaces.by crispy1 - General
When I tried PLA and ABS on lexan I had the same issue. They both would stick very well, but even PLA (which doesn't curl much) would curl the lexan no matter how many perimeter clips I used. With ABS, there was no way to keep it flat when it was heated. The differential heating on the bottom would cause it to warp with enough force to bend the glass it was clipped to! I am planning on tryingby crispy1 - General
Leaving this here so people know what they are getting into with printing this mystery filament:by crispy1 - General
Here's my response when these same pictures were posted to Reddit: I remain utterly unimpressed by the prints the Makibox is turning out. At least Printrbot doesn't misrepresent what you're getting (as much): a box of parts that might become a 3D printer if you spend enough time beating your head against it.by crispy1 - General
This type of thing has been done before by Joaz/jglauche. They used a DC motor driven bulldozer instead of attaching it to the x carriage. Only documentation I could dig up was this:by crispy1 - General
Ezra, I think we're all prepared to cut you some well-deserved slack, but you have to *tell* us what is going on. Tell us you have 3 days to move your entire operation to another warehouse, and that this will delay shipments. What really concerns people IMO is this black hole of information when it comes to dealing with you and TL.by crispy1 - General
For a while I was using out of round parts and could see a direct impact in the printed objects - ripples in the walls and stuff like that. So for me the issue wasn't so much changes in tension as impacting the positioning accuracy.by crispy1 - Developers
QuoteBed can be made lighter than carriage with NEMA17 extruder attached. So its less inertia and on shorter lever. It's not lighter. You need to include the mass of a set of smooth rods and and a stepper motor in your analysis because one axis rides on top of the other so they are still carrying a motor around.by crispy1 - General
Quotethe pulleys ought to be printable though, none of the dimensions are particularly critical. Runout (out of roundness) is critical. I do not know of a machine that can print a perfectly circular object with runout < 0.0005" which IMO is what is required for precision linear movement.by crispy1 - Developers
I tried something like that, with printed parts. I found the friction to be very high, and not in a good way. Your implementation looks better than mine as far as using proper bearings and machined parts with no runout. I also still had slip somehow, and I had the equivalent of 3 full wraps...by crispy1 - Developers
@maddox Welcome to the bleeding edge. Put on your big boy pants and buckle up, the ride is a bit bumpy.by crispy1 - General
I think you should get a printer that actually exists and is shipping to customers today, rather than some questionable product that *might* ship in a year if they hit all their dates (and nobody on kickstarter hits their dates). Here are a couple excellent reprap-based vendors to choose from (google for their websites): Lulzbot Makers Tool Worksby crispy1 - General
Pretty sure Stratasys has a patent on a rocking dual extruder setup. You're probably ok for personal use but you may want to look up the patent before you sell/release it. I like your nozzle wiping solution, that's pretty clever.by crispy1 - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I've had very good luck with an elmer's glue glue stick, the kind that goes on purple and clears up as it dries. And it makes less mess than hairspray. You do need to either moisten it with a paper towel or reapply it before every print or it doesn't stick as well.by crispy1 - General
At first I thought these guys were just throwing their concept out there to gauge interest before they ponied up the cash to actually develop a working product. But now I think it's a flat out scam. They have shown no real images of prints OR a product. All they have are 2D renders of their printer that look kind of 3D-ish, and some obviously fake pictures of "output" from their fake product.by crispy1 - Developers
Sanjay, you may want to pop into this Reddit thread and dispel the rumors before they get too carried away with the torches and pitchforks thing.by crispy1 - General
*scratches head* Does it seem bass ackwards to anyone else that rifling a barrel, which makes a gun more accurate, would make it less legally onerous to own the gun?by crispy1 - General
@PeteD Ok now I'm somewhat impressed. 8 shots through an all-plastic barrel is surprising. I'd love to know how accurate his "rifling" is though.by crispy1 - General
@rsilvers, have you taken over PR for QUBD or something?by crispy1 - General