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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: LCD flickering like crazy, any idea why? - 11 years ago
I have flicker on my LCD screen that definitely corresponds with whether the hotend is receiving power or not. I strongly suspect the voltage on my RAMPS board isn't as confined as it should be. It hasn't seemed to effect the printing process at all, though. Is this what you're seeing?by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Re: Advanced Printer Updates, Most Bang for the Buck? - 11 years ago
Thanks, all. I'm still hoping for some more suggestions, but I've got a couple questions on the above. Isos, do have particular all-metal extruder suggetsions? E3D, Magma, Budaschnozzle? james, I definitely don't have any bushing know-how yet. Is it simply an issue of selecting the appropriate chromed rod and acquiring/making STLs that accept the bushing? Is there something beyond that one shouby Karmavore - General
Zip Ties or Machine Screws for holding the linear bearings? - 11 years ago
I'm looking over the various i3 implementations out there, and I see that the Prusa github is using screws and bolts to hold the linear bearings in place. The EiNSTeiN variant, on the other hand, is using "pound them in with a mallet" and/or zip ties. I've printed some of those out. They seem pretty snug. Is there a consensus opinion about which approach is superior? I don't want to trade awayby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Advanced Printer Updates, Most Bang for the Buck? - 11 years ago
Hello, all. I'm a RepRapper who has had a functional i2 for a little more than one year now. Over that time, I've installed many an update on my machine. I replaced the printed pulleys and T5 belts with aluminum and GT2; I replaced the two-plate bed design with a single plate, triffid-hunter's bar clamps, and self-design y-bushing lifters to preserve z-height. I printed and am now using Greg's Wby Karmavore - General
Re: Prusa i3 extruder idler x-xcarriage interference - 11 years ago
Thanks, misan. I apparently had forgotten that I'd downloaded the github of the EiNSTeiN variant of the i3. I'll have to compare what I got from there to the Prusa Github. If you care to address it, I sort of think it odd that this x-carriage (which to my eyes looks simpler ergo better) was in the "single_plate_old" directory. Prusa, it seems, favors the x-carriage from the box frame directory.by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Re: Prusa i3 extruder idler x-xcarriage interference - 11 years ago
Hi Misan, I downloaded and printed your extruder today, (well, mrice's remix,) in anticipation of upgrading my i2 to a single-plate i3. When I had the piece in my hands, I discovered that the x-carriage I have, which I got very recently from the prusa github, uses the 24mm t-shared x-carriage. Where can this 30mm t-shaped x-carriage be found? What part do I see as an x-carriage in the photos yoby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Re: Quick questions - 11 years ago
Almost forgot: Just switch to Marlin now. (I.e., drop Sprinter.)by Karmavore - General
Re: Quick questions - 11 years ago
If your extruder is made from PLA, Dust is absolutely right. PLA extruders will melt just enough to mess with your prints if connected to the hotend, (but not enough to immediately see.) If it is made from ABS, the plate is superfluous and limits your built height. My jhead fits great directly inside, and held in tight with four 10mm M3 screws. In your place, if my PEEK (black) portion of my hotby Karmavore - General
Re: Hotend Temperature Readings Changed. Cause? - 11 years ago
My speculation appears to have been right. The wire going into the thermistor was touching the brass piece of the j-head, changing the resistance profile, and therefore my temperature readings. Making sure that the teflon sheath was all the way down appears to have fixed it. I'm back in action. What a pain this one was. On the bright side, all the time I put into making my hobbed bolt grip moreby Karmavore - General
Re: Hotend Temperature Readings Changed. Cause? - 11 years ago
Thanks, james. I forgot to mention that I'm working with a J-Head IV, which includes a small drilled-out section where the thermistor is inserted. I therefore assume I'm getting the same temperature profile at the thermistor as I did before, and always. I'll be disassembling and reassembling the hotend tonight, and I'll let you know if I manage to fix my issue, and how I did it.by Karmavore - General
Hotend Temperature Readings Changed. Cause? - 11 years ago
Hello All. I've had a wonderfully functional Reprap i2. I replaced my Wade's extruder, which naturally required me to remove the hotend and move it into a different extruder base. Ever since, I need to set the hotend temperature higher to get the extruder to work. In other words, I used to extrude Octave green at 230, but now I have to set it to 235 to get the same results. Does anyone have anyby Karmavore - General
Re: Filament prices rising?!? - 11 years ago
bobc, I'm on the prowl, too. The best (also: only) place I've found is the place linked to by the filastruder website, which offers ABS at $8/lb. After non-trivial shipping costs (to a US address,) even when placing an order for 20 lbs of the stuff, I still can't get the per kg price under $20. In other words, the break even point on a filastruder wouldn't come for me until about 60 lbs of uncby Karmavore - General
Re: Filament prices rising?!? - 11 years ago
> > Are there extrusion-bot-enabled ebay > > sellers offering custom filament worth taking a > > chance on? > Why does anything always have to be a market > opportunity to be taken serious? Because I'd like for someone to take advantage of the opportunity so that I can save money. That's just where I'm coming from, though it's not the only concern. You note some others. Fby Karmavore - General
Re: Filament prices rising?!? - 11 years ago
Cool stuff! Is anyone selling their filastuder-created filament? I'd buy some, if only to see if I'd like to buy my own filastruder!by Karmavore - General
Re: Filament prices rising?!? - 11 years ago
I don't know which side of the "creating filament is easy/difficult" debate is right. But if RobertKuhlmann has the right of it, it seems there would be a market opportunity here, ripe for the plucking. Are there extrusion-bot-enabled ebay sellers offering custom filament worth taking a chance on? Regardless, the 1500% number is ignoring capital and labor costs, which certainly aren't nothing.by Karmavore - General
Re: Bizarre printing issue - 11 years ago
I've got the same corner issue on my prints, and it has been explained to me that this is caused by steppers decelerating. Aside from slowing down, I'm told, there's little to be done about it. If you find otherwise, please let us know.by Karmavore - General
Re: MK2 Heated Bed Does Not Reach 110 Degrees - 11 years ago
Cameron provides some good tips, and the answers will help lead you in the right direction. I had several issues getting my bed to 110, but it does now, and within 15 minutes or so. Each of these provided some improvement: * Resoldered the connections into the heated bed. * Ensured that I had insulation (teflon cooking sheet and cardboard) between the PCB and my aluminium sheet. * Replaced theby Karmavore - General
Re: Divide object - 11 years ago
I use the "cut" feature of Netfabb studio basic, and then superglue the resulting pieces together.by Karmavore - General
Re: Changing LCD Display info - 11 years ago
I went looking for this myself, too, and found this thread, which provides an example of changing the Marlin firmware to change a menu.by Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: what do you revise me here? - 11 years ago
Everyone agrees: you are not getting enough plastic out of your extruder. There are lots of different causes of this, and they all look about the same on the build platform. Look around until you find one. I've put them in order of how likely I think the issues are, from most to least. YMMV. * Extruder temperature too low for the filament type/brand/color. (Includes speed too high to let the filby Karmavore - General
Re: Please help me identify this Prusa part - 11 years ago
The inside of the z-threaded-rod part of the x-ends was slightly larger than the nuts I had on the z-rods. I solved this by putting electrical tape around the nuts to make them fit snugly in the hex-holes. It looks to me like some enterprising printer solved the problem with a new 3D-printed part. A couple quick searches on various terms didn't come up with any evidence of it. Could the person wby Karmavore - General
Re: Changing LCD Display info - 11 years ago
I've got no help for your actual question, though I'll want to do this, too, eventually. You'd probably be better served posting this over in the Firmware section, because you're going to be making changes to firmware to make it happen. I can answer your "(percent?)" question. That's a print speed value that you can modify while your object is printing. Want to speed it up? Turn the knob. Slow iby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Slight layer misalignment? - 11 years ago
cameronm Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It seems like long straight lines make it more noticeable, whereas short straight lines its harder to tell. This comment leads me to believe that the issue might be related to speed and/or acceleration. What are your settings for these? Or better yet, if you slow yourself waaaaay down (let's say 45mm/sec speed and 600mmby Karmavore - General
Re: Slight layer misalignment? - 11 years ago
jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > or you can modify z steps in firmware to whole steps.... If I understand the issue correctly, this wouldn't solve the issue I describe, because it's the z-steps-per-layer that matter, not the z-steps-per-one-mm. I'm also suspicious that Cameron's layer heights might differ because (s)he is using lead screws with a 2by Karmavore - General
Re: Slight layer misalignment? - 11 years ago
Just throwing something out there: by any chance did you use different layer heights for your 20mm cube and the cuboid-pyramid? I wonder if what we're seeing is the result of the firmware doing a necessary rounding of z-steps. So, while your firmware can track real number of steps to be taken, when it sends information to the steppers, it has to send whole numbers. If you have a combination of zby Karmavore - General
Re: Power Issue Using Reprapdiscount Smart Controller with RAMPS 1.4? - 11 years ago
I did get a reply from reprapdiscount via their electronic bay contact link. See below. That I might have a bad voltage regulator on the Arduino is something that didn't occur to me, but does match most of my symptoms. It works when I get 5V from USB, or 5V from my ATX supply. It doesn't work when D1 is installed and providing 12V. Perhaps the short that is suspected happened because I currentlyby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Random jams? - 11 years ago
It looks like this is reliably occurring within the first couple layers. I hypothesize that your printer works when it is still cool, but starts to fail when it warms up. I've had hard-to-troubleshoot jams occur when heat gets too far up of the extruder, and deforms the filament before it enters the top of the hotend. That deformed filament prevents any more of itself from getting pushed into theby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Re: Power Issue Using Reprapdiscount Smart Controller with RAMPS 1.4? - 11 years ago
I've come to a successful conclusion. In a nutshell, I seems like I had a faulty RAMPS 1.4 board. I'm guessing the problem was with the PCB, because the 12V power that was supposed to be coming out of RAMPS and into the Arduino Vin socket was instead going into the ground right next to it. (And I have seen others online complain of a similar problem. My RAMPS was purchased from Reprapdiscount inby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Panel Showing "FR120%"... Huh? - 11 years ago
Thanks for the response. It could easily be that I'm turning the dial during the print. I'll explore that possibility.by Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Setup / power / Temp issues - 11 years ago
I'm having a similar problem with my reprapdiscount RAMPS 1.4. More info here. The option to take out D1 and use 5V into the appropriate pins starts looking better and better. How did this turn out, in the end?by Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics