Thanks, dissidence, for your help while this electronics n00b attepts to dekeesterize his head. Reading up on D1, I was pretty hopeful that I didn't have one. But, alas, there is one there, and it has connectivity in one direction and not the other. One of its solder joints didn't look all that great, so I reheated the both of them. I put everything back together, but there's no change in my symby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Hello. I think I have a problem, but I'm not sure. I'm hoping the community can confirm that I have an issue (or that I don't), and then suggest some steps I might take to fix it. I have a RAMPS 1.4 board running my Prusa Mendel v2. I bought it assembled, and it works well. I've a couple minor complaints, but nothing worth noting here. I've just added the Reprapdiscount Smart Controller. It alsby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
I can't say that I've experience what you're experiencing, so keep in mind I'm just guessing. It's clear that your printer works very well for at least a little while, and when it screws up, it seems to do so in the same spots, but those spots differ among prints. This seems odd to me. Here are a couple things I'd explore: 1. How steady does your extruder temperature stay? Once it is locked inby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
jbernardis, I had exactly the same problem, and I temporarily solved it by making my hex head bigger with electrical tape. I say temporarily because the tape will eventually slip out, but it gives you plenty of time to print a new gear with exactly the head size you need. If you need an appropriate stl or scad file, I can help. The other approach I've seen people use is for the nut to sit in thby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
And on the second print (the front of a case for the panel) I see FR110%. So now I'm looking in (Slic3r 0.9.10b-generated) gcode files, and I don't see anything in there either. Just thinking out loud for anyone who wants to assist with my de-baffling.by Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hello All. I've got a Prusa Mendel with RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin V1.0. It has been working reasonably well for me for a while, and it continues to do so. Today, I finally got around to attaching the Reprapdiscount Ultipanel/SD card reader, and, running off of it, I'm printing a knob for the thing as I type this. My question is about something it is showing me on the LCD screen: "FR120%" I assuby Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I don't see the ooze problem that jbernardis does. What this looks like to me is a too-high esteps value. Pressure builds up in the nozzle as you extrude too much during a long perimeter, and once you're at the corner there's more room for plastic to leak out, and the nozzle is moving more slowly, allowing it to happen. 1) 2) But first, I'd check the consistency of the filament diameter as itby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
If you look in the reflection, you can see fingerprints on your bed. Clean it! They interfere with adherence more than I would have expected. I also agree with waitaki that the first layer might benefit by being just a tad closer to the bed. If neither of those two items help, I'd next try increasing the first layer hotend temperature by 2 or 3 degrees.by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Congrats on your successes. I'm sure you'll find other ways to keep moving forward. On that topic, here's a suggestion: If you need to set your extrusion multiplier to 85%, your esteps value is definitely not calibrated. For me, anyway, getting the esteps right was the prereq to good bridging.by Karmavore - General
I had paper shredder issues, as well as seemingly random stops. I've heard conflicting reports about voltage spikes or USB interference being the cause. However, the people suggesting USB interference seem to be correct in my case, since their advice fixed the problem. When I switched from a 6ft USB cable with a ferrite choke to a 3ft USB cable with a ferrite choke, the problem completely disappby Karmavore - General
njadric, I had this problem once, too. I'd set the z-axis just right, get a suitable print, then find the head crashing into the bed on the next print. Not breaking anything, but definitely deforming the kapton on the print bed, and not letting any extrudate out, to speak of. My problem wasn't cold z axis homing, nor lost z steps. What was happening was heat from the hot end was deforming the PLby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Yeah, for whatever reason, cloud.netfabb.com creates STL files that work better than the "Repair" function in the free version of NetFabb. Give it a whirl.by Karmavore - General
Traumflug makes a lot of good points, but this is the winner, IMHO: > This is close to the biggest flaw of bitcoins. By > economic science, the value of money should > represent the value of goods and economic power. > But the amount of goods, services, knowledge > ... constanly raises, so the amount of money has > to raise, too... And Bitcoins can't deal > with that, becausby Karmavore - General
NoobMan, points taken. But the assumption you're making is that bitcoin will achieve and maintain "acceptance by a significant part of users so the coin is actually usable." And you are dead on in observing that there exist prejudices for normal currencies. What you call prejudices, though, I'd refer to as an inertia bias or well-reasoned preference. Without extenuating circumstance (a demand forby Karmavore - General
I stumbled into what seems like an error while doing the bridge torture test with Slic3r 0.9.10b. With three perimeters, and infill set to .25, the bridging goes from the infill on one side to the infill on the other. (The infill setting, as long as it was non-zero, doesn't really matter, because the area was small enough to make the infill total.) With three perimeters, and infill set to 0, thby Karmavore - Slic3r
RicardoGA Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > are you using a pc psu or a regulated power > switching psu, if you are using a pc power supply > many pc psu needs a load in the 5v rail to get a > stable 12v +1. I have a couple of light bulbs on the 5v rail, and they are absolutely necessary to keep good voltage on the 12v.by Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
In all seriousness, though, bitcoins are interesting in a lot of ways. For one, you don't know who invented them, and who you're therefore enriching by propping up the price. That right there is a huge red flag. Then, while the finite limit and mining approach to bitcoins is ingenious, it simply cannot work. The fatal flaw is that there is nothing about bitcoin that stops someone else from makinby Karmavore - General
Shhhhh!!!!!!!!!!! We're all getting rich printing bitcoins, and we'd like to keep it that way.by Karmavore - General
This sounds weird. +1 on using a newer version of Slic3r. Adding a troubleshooting test: Does the same thing happen when you send it through Netfabb Could Services?by Karmavore - General
Crux, as you've seen, this could be a lot of things. One thing you might try to narrow it down is to remove the hotend from your extruder block, and measure the amount of filament that you get from a 100mm "extrusion." If you get 100mm, you have an issue with pressure or clogging of the extruder, and the issue is stepper losing steps due to pressure, too cool a temperature, or an outright clog.by Karmavore - General
Bad News/Good News update. It wasn't fixed, at least not totally. For whatever reason, the hotend didn't need to be as hot for the heated bed to start, but it did have to be just a hair warmer than ambient. Marin/Printrun wasn't the issue. It turns out, and I'm not surprised by this, that the issue was a loose or possibly entirely disconnected ground wire coming from the power supply into RAMPby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Hey, jbernadis, I'm curious what came of this. I can do the same thing by removing some acceleration limits, but if I can speed my printer up by improving some hardware thing, I'd like to know about it. Some other thoughts on this thread: * I'd also like to know why marlin has the two different acceleration configuration values. (DEFAULT_ACCELERATION and DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION) * I advocate foby Karmavore - General
Congrats on what sounds like a really cool internship! I'm unfamiliar with your specific printer, but the issue you describe is classically caused by one of two things: 1) You aren't heating the extruder sufficiently to melt the filament. (What were your before/after extruder temperature settings?) 2) Your idler (the part that pushes the filament against the part that spins it into the extruderby Karmavore - General
AJdoodler Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Could you possibly send a screenshot or something > with some of your settings that allow this? Yep, I've got my first plate of prints I wouldn't mind having sold to me, if I needed them. It was a lot of work to get there. I've only got one printer, but I feel confident in the assertion that everyone's RepRap is diby Karmavore - General
xNuno, yes, but no wood. I found wood to be no end of trouble, because it bends, making bed leveling nigh on impossible.by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
It's likely you've already found the information you need. Calibration. Testing. Repeat. The tough part for me, anyway, was coming to accept that what I'd done thus far wasn't good enough. So my advice is to be exceptionally critical--overzealoulsy negative--about the quality of your prints. Go all Tiger Mother on them. They can be better. And don't forget, you're having fun. It took me a whileby Karmavore - General
Sure. I upgraded from two platforms with plywood to one aluminum platform. Pictures from the process are here: .by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Thanks Ohm and Bruce. I sometimes shoot for the residue to get good adhesion to combat warping. I haven't ever seen the whitish haze, though. So thus far, my small informal survey has yielded: Me, whose Kapton gets stickier with time. Bruce's Kapton is consistent. Ohmarinus and nophead get less sticky with time. More answers welcome, but the note that it differs for everyone seems bang on. I wby Karmavore - General
xNuno, it sounds like you're getting roughly the same performance I got out of my heated bed before insulating it. The suggestions provided... thicker wire, better solder joints, insulation, are top notch. To this I'll add that if you've got a fan blowing on it, you might never get to 100. I've got aluminum, cardboard, a couple layers of a teflon baking sheet, PCB (ridges up), glass, kapton. I cby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the info, nophead. Strange that things would be so different. I wonder if ABS brand plays a role. Over the course of this morning, I seemed to have achieve "happy kapton," so I've little to complain about. My strongest hunch is that repeated hot/cool cycles creates small deformation in my tape, because the happy kapton appears simultaneously over the entire bed, and not just where I'vby Karmavore - General