This is a better comparison between 1 mm and 0.5mm, with the better looking print taking less time and being much heavier and stronger even with thinner layer height: Its explained at the gallery here:by Simba - Developers
Wired1: awesome! That what i'm saying : ) I followed up on a request on another one of my posts to print single-wall parts, and complex small parts. Obviously you are limited by a minimum nozzle width, but you can EASILY trick slicer to print smaller than 1-mm nozzle width parts using the "default extrusion width" (otherwise it wont infill perimeters or places them strangely). For example,by Simba - Developers
James, I could use some clarification (especially vs. dc motors on skien forge?). The differences between the 0.5 mm nozzle i was using, and the 1mm is 100% mathematically. You get exactly what you would expect with 2X the minim width you could get before. Right now, I get exactly 1.15 mm extrusion and clean lines in the Z-stack at .25 mm thickness. Above 0.5 mm it is much more glug glug gby Simba - General
You'll love this. I'm an idiot, and even I could do it : ). Installed arudino software, then upload kliment to it, and use printrun to issue stepper commands using the arrows/bullseye. Best of luck.by Simba - General
Hi! Thanks for the input. The guys at #reprap helped me figure it out. This looked to be a slicer issues, since I specified wall widths as percentages wrong. The nozzle is 1mm. It makes parts so much faster and stronger than you'd ever imagine, and I don't get why it isn't the default. If you really need high quality surface finish, this isn't for you, but its not aweful either. I posteby Simba - General
Slic3r is the problem: I should add, changing Default extrusion width doesnt help any. Additional info ( Cube with 10 mm side). ; single wall width = 1.30mm ; first layer single wall width = 0.71mm Extent (middle layer example) 9.311000 mm wide how does this even work. 9.3 mm + .15 mm error (per wall side) * two per axis = 9.6 mm extrusion width. ? And yet, for a 10 mm part, i getby Simba - General
I am printing with a prusa makergear v2. I slic3r with 093. All of my parts are designed in tinkercad. When printing carefully (slow), I am getting parts that are always 0.8 mm wider than they should be on the exterior, and this would translate to 0.8 mm smaller gaps between print areas. This is completely consistent, whether the part is 10 mm of 100 mm wide. Isn't there some way for Slby Simba - General
Just an update - Printing 0.75 mm layers at 1 mm diameter at 30 mm/s no problem. Compare against 0.25 mm x 0.1 mm X 50 mm/s = about 10 X overall print speed.by Simba - Developers
We have hit a lot of resistance to manufacturers making the infill metal for us. We will make test ones ourself. A machine like Prusa can use both 1.75 and 3mm (though I'm not sure if people realize this). For most, we can output either, but for rubber, more than likely it will be 3mm, becuase you need a certain amount of stiffness to be able to push a wire. Right now we have two proposed dby Simba - General
Just a heads up - I succeeded at this mod - drilling out the prusa makergearv2 nozzle (plastistruder) to be 1mm diameter. Then smooth the nozzle by brushing it against a flat brass surface (acts as superfine sandpaper). Nothing shockingly new here, but the take-home-message is that it was totally unintuitive before doing the mod how much easier plastic would flow, and how much stronger and fasby Simba - Developers
RESULTS: I was able to build a load-cell arduino combination that works. Specifically, a loadcell from a 5000g kitchen scale with 1g accuracy, you could in theory weigh about 0.3g. However, the error of drift was SO large over time that I could not interpolate using RAMPS as a power supply for the chip. KEYS to success: DO NOT use the arudino to power the loadcell and amplifier. IT resultsby Simba - Developers
reversed motors leads and endstop during machine construction?by Simba - Slic3r
Got it working! We missed in one major area, and that is that 5V is NOT connected on the arduino regulator by default. We had to jumper it.by Simba - Developers
okay will do. We are trying to integrate the servo code as "G" commands and it isn't responding.by Simba - Developers
Additional info. There is an incredible push lately towards new materials like UV and blue light cured polymers and new polymer materials being used lately (Polycarbonate, PVA, and others). While personal experience is one measure of safety - and yes people rarely complain - I fear for our combined ignorance and Dearth of information about polymer safety. For example, people think that a curedby Simba - Administration, Announcements, Policy
So my story goes, everything is peachy until someone gets hurt. People already get sensitized to ABS plastic and talk about it like it's just news. This horrifies me - having been once before sensitized to a similar material, it meant having a permanent reaction/sensitivity and took years of management to get it to a point where future reactions were manageable. I want Reprap to consider adby Simba - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Just an update for everyone. We've been contacting the world of thermoplastic rod manufacturers to try and get a custom order made. This is where having a company facade & website is great because they take us seriously, whereas before they wouldn't ever reply. Two companies said no (or didn't reply) after reviewing specs, and one said yes (all are in Ohio). So we may be getting the polymby Simba - General
Of course, neither am I, but as is always the case with rep-rappers I would like to - and promise to - release the plans, sources, and methodology once there is a final 'product' There are several good reasons to do this when working on something that is more that just a small personal hobby. 1) We like to give very, very, (did I say very) specific suggestions on details, its only in our naturby Simba - General
These are certainly points of detail I would consider once the method is proven. Sometimes its good to just "do that damn experiment." I'm going to do it, but yes the bridge is built into the loadcell. I had to make an op amp from scratch. The signal comes in at 4.9mV accuracy with Arduino in theory but I haven't implemented that yet. What it means though is about 0.01 g = 3.3 mV. So I canby Simba - Developers
Not sure why I only just thought of this to solve the shrinkage issue - Can you over extrude the first 10 layers to compensate for the shrinkage? How about printing the base with "Baffles" to act as a sort of thermal expansion zone for the first few layers? The less dense the part is printed, the less shrinkage you will see, right?by Simba - Look what I made!
So, I want to verify the weight of the part as it is being built (for the sake of doing it, but also to monitor density of novel polymers). Do do this, I took apart a kitchen scale and got the load cell. I wired it up to a OPAMP ina2126PA-ND (digikey). I also got some backup cheap loadcells from amazon ($10 for .1 and .01 sensitivity) I am successfully reading the signal, it is linear, and aby Simba - Developers
Sniper4395 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Definitely a dinosaur ribcage. Awesome! > > What are you gonna use it for though, a hairbrush? > 100% dinosaur, and I didn't read the post before thinking it : D coolby Simba - Look what I made!
From: "The clueless" To: "The clued in" Is there native support for powering 2 or 3 servos with arduino, without giving up any of the stepper controllers? Or are all the IO pins taken up by the pololus? Also, does anyone know where I could find a code example? Thanks in advance!by Simba - Developers
Seems like easy stuff you will figure out. Sounds like your Z=0 may be too close. Try starting .1-.2mm higher that you are now. That would cause a jam to develop over a few perimeters. Otherwise your larger perims are printing faster AND you are getting jamming because the nozzle motor can't keep up with the force to drive cold filament into the heated nozzle. Suggestions include a tighteby Simba - General
Its not that kind of fan. Its a walmart desk fan, like 40 W, 120VAC. Its connected to mains power on the same circuit. Even turning on a drill will crash the system for whatever reason.by Simba - General
thecrazy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This is quite expensive for a J head clone. > > Get the real thing here > from the one who actualy invented it and for > cheaper. They don't look anything alike. To the original poster: How is this a "complete" extruder without the stepper motor?by Simba - For Sale
Marlin was running very unstable for me. I used Sprinter with great stability & success, as recommended by #makergearv2 folks.by Simba - General
Yeah, I don't know. Something is ghetto-wrong about it. My guess is the ATX setup could not be setup to prevent backflow of current spikes through the ground connection. I'm not sure if much of the RAMPs is isolated from the same power source. One thing I have heard is that large inductive loads are a major problem for basic switching circuits (like a solid state light dimmer).by Simba - General
flowbear Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > hi, > I am interested in speaking with you about your > conductive filament. I have a project that I > really need that for. How can I get in touch? I always read my PM's.by Simba - General
...prusa MG2...powered by an atx. When I plug in a large external fan for cooling and turn it on, the ramps seizes up with a red Light. This also crashes printer face... Any ideas?by Simba - General