The voltage of your power supply has a big effect on stepper performance, if you are using 12V you may want to step up to 24V.by jzatopa - General
Here is a video I did about that exact problem -by jzatopa - General
Chicagoan86 there are a few factors, most of which have been covered here. What seems to be missing is that nobody is talking about filament quality and resin. The PLA I sell on my site is made of Natureworks PLA and is manufactured in the USA. I have compared it to a few other Chinese brands and have found it to be vastly superior, which means you spend more time getting quality prints and lby jzatopa - General
Picbus, thanks for the link, I just put my order in.by jzatopa - General
Makerbot is quickly loosing its relevance as it's innovation has slowed down to close-sourced speed. Kyle R what you need is an H-Bot. I suggest you contact Crispy1 on this forum as he is selling a very nice H-bot and may be willing to work with you to get the machine to fit your needs.by jzatopa - General
XL version, its a 5:1 geared NEMA with 495 steps/mm @ 1/16 and 990 @ 1/32. Unless you are using it for a bowden your bigger problem is mounting the two together. The e3d uses a different mounting dimension then the j-head. When you get it to work the combo work great.by jzatopa - General
I just ordered one to test out, after some testing I will share my experiences.by jzatopa - General
I don't need one of these but this is really cool looking.by jzatopa - For Sale
nicholas I feel like this is added complexity for a minimal gain. Would it not be easier to switch to a 400 step stepper to make .14mm your resolution instead of .28mm?by jzatopa - Mechanics
I sell it and I am using it on the 3d printer I am designing. It works great for almost everything.by jzatopa - Mechanics
sublime did you ever try GT2 belt for your Z axis?by jzatopa - Tantillus
Considering the amount of torque you are looking for you may want to switch to a geared setup on your stepper. Maybe something like this would work better for you.by jzatopa - General
I haven't pulled mine apart to measure it yet but I have got it printing at 215C, anything below that and it stops printing. As long as it keeps printing that that temp I am not going to worry.by jzatopa - General
Quotepaucus I think this is interesting, a way to paint FDM objects… Paucus That is damn clever. This is the first reasonable way of coloring a print while it is being created that I have seen.by jzatopa - General
I just read this article here. I am not a programmer but it seems to me like this could be used to improve the speed of the firmwares we currently use on our printers. Is anyone able to implement this and tell us where our firmwares are spending the most cpu cycles?by jzatopa - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Check out this video, you can now 3d print felted plush objects. It looks like a pretty simple setup that has a stepper controlled needle, a servo that adjusts the angle of the yarn and a foam printing base. There is an article available behind a paywall but I doubt it has the details on how to build your own. Is anyone going to try to build one for themselves?by jzatopa - General
QuoteTraumflug QuotejzatopaReprap is at the point that it really needs some people dedicated to it 100%. That includes seeking funding, maintaining the wiki, maintaining the forum and continuing development, etc.. If we had someone who was working on the wiki full time [...] If you find some funding opportunities I'm all ears. let me think about it and get back to you. Has anyone looked intoby jzatopa - General
The temps are right, I double checked with my thermo couple. The difference between the two is 1.8c. Here is order of events that led me to cranking up the temp. 1. heat up hotend to 190c 2. Once hotend reaches ~190 I can extrude without problems for a few minutes. 3. After a period of time the filament starts to jam. Barrel is cool to the touch due to fan. 4. Finally the hot end jams. At fiby jzatopa - General
I got my e3d mounted and printing PLA the other day but it get it to print I need to keep the temp at 240-260C to prevent clogs. It prints fine at that temp but it gives my print a very glossy finish. Is anyone else experiencing anything like this?by jzatopa - General
I think rather then focusing on why, we should focus on what to do about it. Reprap is at the point that it really needs some people dedicated to it 100%. That includes seeking funding, maintaining the wiki, maintaining the forum and continuing development, etc.. If we had someone who was working on the wiki full time they could easily merge pages and improve content, There is a lot of outdatby jzatopa - General
Nice product but I don't see that it is opensource, this belongs in the crowd fund announcements area.by jzatopa - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
I've been noticing this a lot more often lately.by jzatopa - General
Your best resource for help is www.diyaudio.com, I've been on there for years.by jzatopa - Experimental and Hobby
After I get some things off my plate I will try one of these with multimeter, it may take a while though.by jzatopa - General
I would say that building a printer from salvaged parts is a very advanced project. You will be much happier buying a kit or using off the shelf parts.by jzatopa - Reprappers
You should try playing with KISSlicer. That being said I think A2 is right about having to model the wall as shelled solid object.by jzatopa - General
I think this needs some testing. I could see temperature fluctuations being an issue with depending on the size and material. In reality though it may only require the temps being off set a few degrees to compensate. If so this would be a great step towards hotend simplicity.by jzatopa - General
Quotevreihen Quotejzatopa I would like to point out that the solution doesn't really need to be a thermocouple. If we could find an M3 threaded thermistor that operated up to 300C we would have an ideal solution. I just can't seem to find one. Did you check eBay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modular-Screw-on-M3-Stud-Thermistor-for-Reprap-Prusa-3D-Printer-Hot-End-Hotend-/221312429218?pt=LH_Defaultby jzatopa - General
Quotevreihen QuotejzatopaMy whole goal is a plug and play solution and that looks a great solution, now I just need to wait until they get stock. If you read the description, the seller simply glued a thermistor into the brass fitting. It took me all of five seconds to realize that the brass fitting was a simple M3 chassis standoff, sold by the pound/kilogram: Given the near-negligible cost,by jzatopa - General