winwalk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > the issue is that it chews up the filament every > once and a while while feeding at high speed. A way to avoid the chewing is to increase the contact area of the filament with the drive gear - instead of a straight filament you curve it around the gear. Successfully done with 1.75 mm ABS filament.by Xabbax - General
aduy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- This may be to deep and wide and will deform the filament without the extra grip - only the small groove is needed and a guide at the back in the form of a grooved idler.by Xabbax - General
aduy Wrote: > edit: I was doing some more research on hobbed > bolts and found this > > -for-filament-feeder.html, then I thought that it > sort of looked like the qu-bd grooved gear. I have > one sitting around and the only difference is that > central goove, I think if you cut that into the > qu-bd gear it would be perfect, ill give it a try. A groove cut with a .5 mmby Xabbax - General
You can try and replace your hobbed bolt with something similar to I am using it in my filament feeder with great results. No slipping of filament - the motor will skip.by Xabbax - General
Mix 5 ml ( teaspoon) colour pigment (colourant) with 200 ml acetone. The pigment available in hardware shops for colouring of paint. Add same amount of plastic pellets to dissolve in the acetone. When fully dissolved spread out on glass and let it dry for a day or two. Cut up in small pieces the same size as yor plastic pellets. Mix at 2-5 % ratio with your plastic pellets and extrude. Forby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I can help you with some prints, some homebrewed ABS filament and other smaller items that you may need.by Xabbax - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Srek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am using a heated chamber (@50°C) for ABS > printing and i don't need any cooling for the > nozzle. > Maybe check again if it is really neccesary for > you. Thank you for the chamber temperature info - will keep it in the back of my mind.by Xabbax - General
Yvan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So when you refer to the bottom brass bolt, that > would be the brass 'acorn' nut on the end with the > orfice? I want to replace the brass bolt with a copper bolt - the brass acorn nut will not be replaced.by Xabbax - General
A2 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Xabbax > > I like your water cooled extruder! > > I don't see a hose clamp on the coolant hose. > Plastic creeps over time, the coolant hose could > separate, and leak water. > To be safe add a hose clamp to the flexible > tubing. > If your microcontroler is located under the build > table it cby Xabbax - General
Thank you all for the positive comments and the links. Reasons for copper water cooled hotend 1. I want to use a heated chamber for ABS and possible PET printing and water cooling was a nice solution to get rid of the heat on the stainless steel tube - no pumping used only convection. I tried pumping cold air from a peltier cooled element but I found it a bit to cumbersome. 2. Use copper rathby Xabbax - General
I used the following:- A stainless steel hypodermic tube (available at Amazon and Mcmaster's) 0.084" ID Two m6 brass bolts with holes drilled lengthwise a copper heater block with holes for a 12v/40w stainless steel heater cartridge, a thermistor and for the stainless steel tube and a small hole for a 3 mm bolt to hold the cartridge in the block a copper tube with a hole drilled through a 6by Xabbax - General
martinprice2004 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Has anyone tried printing with a larger nozzle > size, say 0.8 or 1mm? Yes - printing ABS with a .75 mm nozzle temperature 260 degrees C - layer height .4 mm - infill speed 50mm/s. With long stretches of infill I do get a 4 degrees C drop in hotend temperature (copper heater block with a 40 watt heater cartriby Xabbax - Reprappers
Thank you for the quick reply - it dampened my enthusiasm for a rectangular nozzle.by Xabbax - Repetier
I do not exactly know how it will be implemented - maybe someone else can help out here. I think you will get the idea in the following videoclip where they use it for concrete printing but the principle can be used on plastic or any other material.by Xabbax - Repetier
For printing ceramics, pastes and cement (and possibly other materials) to use a rectangular hole in the nozzle. Determining proper angular orientation of this nozzle head in relation to nozzle head/bed movement. Will be great if this functionality can be added to Repetier firmware. (I also posted this to Slic3r)by Xabbax - Repetier
For printing ceramics, pastes and cement (and possibly other materials) to use a rectangular hole in the nozzle. Determining proper angular orientation of this nozzle head in relation to nozzle head/bed movement. Will be great if this functionality can be added to Slic3r.by Xabbax - Slic3r
Filament feeder on Nema 17 motor 1.75 mm filament Bearings - 2 x 696zz with a groove cut with a dremel tool. bearing size outside diameter 15mm hole size 6mm thickness 5mm. Drive gear with a groove cut in with a dremel tool(Idea from Jeremie Francois) Openscad files (.scad) and .STL files available on website listed belowby Xabbax - General
1.Check for loose pin connections or broken wires 2. Check the rodlength settings in the firmware(rodlength,delta offset,effector offset etc.) 3. you may be try-ing to print outside the printable area or build dimensions(settings in pronterface and repetier-host)by Xabbax - Delta Machines
coolplastic Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Has anyone tried multiple string extruder. Like > instead of putting one hole on 1.75mm put more > than one. Yes I did - with two holes horizontally seperated about 8 mm. Extruding OK but the problem is the coiling of the filament on the floor. Getting a bit messy after a while.by Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
coolplastic Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi all, > I think a vertical design is better as you can use > gravity to increase the flow rate. However the > speed is of importance. > > The speed should be in the range of 36 - 48" per > minute like the extrusion bot. Any ideas on how to > achieve that without dropping filament accuracy? Youby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
A print I did with the Tairilac ABS filament that I extruded yesterday. Extruded 1.7mm - 330 meter in 9 hours -> +- 35 meters per hour.by Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
isotone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Wow great work! Do you think it would be a simple > matter of scaling everything up by the correct > amount to get a 3mm filament extruder, including > the heaters? I tested my current setup with a 2.5 mm hole and the filament that came out was 3.1 mm I guess one could try a 2.4 mm hole ( I do not have a .4 mmby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
isotone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Wow great work! Do you think it would be a simple > matter of scaling everything up by the correct > amount to get a 3mm filament extruder, including > the heaters? also I'm not sure if I understand how > you can get a 1.7mm extrusion from a 1mm hole as > per your last post, is that right? I think you canby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You got an awesome project going on there anyway. > > You might be able to create a machine that can > recycle ABS filament into a new 3mm string. Is > that even possible?.. I received a bag of Tairilac ABS plastic from my local agent. Extruding very well with the maschine - a hole size of 1mm getting filaby Xabbax - Plastic Extruder Working Group
AndreyR Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Today, I performed an experiment with dry mix and > water. In the beginning, it was very promising- > the dry mix was extruded flawlessly- but when I > added water supply to the nozzle, the nozzle > started to clog, and as you can see in the > video/pictures, this technique completely failed. > At leastby Xabbax - General
> About the dry mix- I like the idea, But here is > disadvantage- From real-life experience, during > construction, the area can be very windy; thus, it > is very likely the dry mix will be blown away. But > either way, I’m going to experiment with dry mix > and water anyway, and see how well it works. The movement of the head along certain paths is not really a problem. I thiby Xabbax - General
> The first stage- the metal parts, motor, hardware, > software, firmware- is done. Everything looks and > moves nicely. I was able to print, though the > extrusion is unstable. After several tries, I have > come to the conclusion that it's better to use a > progressive cavity pump for the extruder. > Here is where I run into a problem, as the > cheapest price I could finby Xabbax - General
A great idea to find a solution to a very real problem. A few concerns and possible solutions on your idea at 1."Does the extruder go up as the platform rises? if so, how?" 2."at the right settings/size of moves, a strong resonance will develop that will have the extrude slamming into the arms." Possible solutions 1." to just suspend it from one point at the top middle and just use a counterbaby Xabbax - Delta Machines