OP posted "If i slice an .stl that i download from the internet it runs fine" so if this is correct then it's not motor wires, or the printer axis setup wrong. I would vote for what Sublime said. BOBcad must use a reversed coordinate system.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
While I am not sure how to fix it (I am new to Sketchup) I can tell you that you have non manifold edges. Use Meshlab to show them. See the attached jpg and all the red areas show issues. I think it's because your bridge is curved but is one single face. It needs to be made up of flat faces so many flat faces hooked together can make a curved surface.by tmorris9 - Slic3r
There was a problem with the STL. If you load it up in Meshlab, pay attention to the inner most circle's doorway (wall cut) and you will notice that one side shows black no matter what direction you rotate the model. I loaded it back into sketchup and while that section looked OK I decided to remake it by first deleting the 2 faces that made up the piece. Then I started to redraw it and bam theby tmorris9 - Slic3r
So I got 2 borosilicate glass plates with my machine. My thinking, print something, pull out the glass to cool, pop in other glass and print. It never seemed to workout just right and today I found out why. I used calipers and found out one of the glass plates was 3.45mm and the other was 3.55mm. So my Z height needed adjusting every time I swapped glasses. Lesson learned.by tmorris9 - General
Well I got an order of 3 new colors in today I normally buy 1lb spools but I wanted red and the place I buy from only had 2lb red in stock so I bought it. Designed a large fume extractor hood that needs support (6-7 hour print) set it off and went to bed (next room, left door open) after a little over 2 hours I heard what sounded like belts slipping (tooth chatter) I ran out to find about 12 feeby tmorris9 - General
I just read about Repetier Host and thought I would try it (normally use Pronterface). I really like the interface, gives a very accurate 3D representation of gcode with 3D view. I had a design that I print a often that has little anomalies (6 parts) and I just figured it was slop or very slight mistakes introduced in the machine but every one of those anomalies showed up in the 3D preview. Inby tmorris9 - General
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't understand why it's necessary to do this > when at 1/16 steps using a M8-1.25 threaded rod, a > step amounts to only 0.00039 mm. Surely, an error > this small in the absolute positioning of the z > height is insignificant compared to the 0.3 or 0.2 > mm layer thickness. If I am figuring this correctlby tmorris9 - General
I am fairly new as well and using Mac. I have an Airwolf 3D printer that is also repetier. Fist you need to slice the stl file, ths creates gcode files tha your printer understands. Then you need to feed the gcode to the printer. There are several ways to do all of this but I am using Slic3r to slice the file into gcode. Then I use Pronterface to send the file to the printer. Works pretty gby tmorris9 - General
Now I don't use PLA but I thought the temp for it was 185c. It might be you are burning it ant that's the crud you see. I saw this with ABS with too much heat.by tmorris9 - General
Wondering what the best grease is to use on linear bearings?by tmorris9 - General
Working roll top box has gotten the most mention around my house but it's 3+ hour print and assembleby tmorris9 - General
This forum is not all that easy to find. I searched for forums on 3D printing several times before finding someone mentioning this one on another site.by tmorris9 - General
thecrazy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > tmorris9: that was regular glass right? you wont > have this kind of problem with borrosilicate glass It's Borosilicate glass. The only thing I can think of is that sand blasting it may have weakened it. The chunk that came off was stuck to the plastic part (the rest of the part popped off by itself) and I had to woby tmorris9 - General
Well, I just found a reason to NOT print directly onto glass. I printed a design and the glass was sitting on my desk cooling off and I heard a PING sound, I though it was the plastic part popping off the glass but the glass had a big chip broken out of it and it was firmly attached to the part (see photo). I guess I will order some PET to use.by tmorris9 - General
See if its outputting for the right firmware (on the gcode tab) and that might solve the "it won't print anything" problem. You could try posting on the KISSlicer forums, maybe someone there will help you in more detail. My firmware is not listed that I can tell. My printer uses repetier and in the g-code kisslicer shows : Bits From Bytes, 5D relative E & 5D absolute E. Are there others aby tmorris9 - General
I don't understand why people do all this crazy stuff when PLA sticks just fine to glass Well I am using ABS exclusively right now.by tmorris9 - General
Well I was told my tape was PET, it was clear (very, very slight blue tint), I destroyed it by accidentally dragging the head into it while hot (ripped it). I was trying to get the Z access just right. My tape was 200mm wide (same as the glass). so it was 1 piece not multiple strips no that it matters.by tmorris9 - General
Well for me, I managed to destroy the only 2 pieces of PET tape I had within a week, I could not get it locally and would have to place a minimum order with my normal tape place so that's why I tried the blasting. I had nothing to lose. While I have a good supplier (except for the minimum orders) I would like to know where people get their PET tape.by tmorris9 - General
PomeroyB Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > tmorris, you can always pay for KISSlicer, or > netfabb studio. Those are, I hear, very good > slicing programs. I actually Downloaded KISSlicer and could not get anything to print from it. I don't know what I am doing wrong in it but it won't extrude, the tool paths are there but no extrusion what so ever. In Prby tmorris9 - General
I am very new to 3D printing but I am also having some weird issues with Slic3r. Granted it's not finished and it's free. But I am already at a point (I got into this to produce parts for my business) that I would pay for a polished program. I would be willing to shell out a few hundred dollars for a slicer that just works well with good features. The company I bought my printer from told me toby tmorris9 - General
You can check Aliexpress.com it's kind of like ebay for China wholesale. Lots of products listed from various sources. Just do a search for what you want. You won't find a page of printer parts or anything but if you search for each specific item you might find some. Be warned that while you can save money this way, there is always risk involved. Not so much that they will rip you off but ratheby tmorris9 - General
I'm pretty sure that the fine texture on the anti-reflective glass is giving something for the plastic to key into at a microscopic level, but not so much that it won't release the part as it shrinks when it cools. Exactly. Now my sand blasting is more coarse than your anti glare but it's less so than coarse sandblasting used to clean rust off car parts. There is also a cream etchant (EtchAll)by tmorris9 - General
When I bought my fully assembled printer it came with PET tape on the glass (Borosilicate glass). I even bought a spare to use with tape on it. Well it did not take me long to destroy the tape on both glasses. While it would be easy enough to get some more tape, I had seen a video about a person that sandblasted a glass (very rough sandblast like used to remove rust from car parts) and he then uby tmorris9 - General
Also Google Scetchup. it may not be a true CAD but it's fairly easy to use and I know at least one company that designed all of their 3D printer (they sell it) on it. There is also a pro version for $500. Also as mentioned Freecad. I use Lightwave 3D but it's not cheap and is really designed for making prints and animations, it's actually used in some movies and a lot of TV shows but I am usingby tmorris9 - Reprappers
So I changed the nozzle to .4 and got slight overlapping instead of a gap, tried 4.7 (what the extrusion measured) and it had a small gap so then tried 4.6 and it seems pretty good. Will have to do more testing when I get some time (darn work gets in the way a lot ;-) Thanks for the advice, I think this was the issue, might try 4.5 but I think I am pretty close to getting it just right.by tmorris9 - General
Nozzle size, that makes sense I will try it. Yes I have calipers so i can measure a piece of the extrusion. I did not calibrate it, I bought the machine supposedly fully calibrated. I have printed pieces of fairly precise sizes and so far everything is on +/- a few hundredths of an inch over 8" (sorry I don't know metric well but am learning).by tmorris9 - General
The nozzle is .5mm and that's what it's set for in Slic3r. The hotend I think is called ALEPH LulzBot Budaschnozzle. It looks like this oneby tmorris9 - General
I run an online store and ship all over the world. It depends on what carrier they use, if it's UPS, FedEx or DHL then it's going to be very expensive. All of my international shipments go by U.S. Mail as it's quite a bit cheaper but takes a bit longer. A heating element would probably be around $13 for first class mail (slow) or $36 by Priority mail (faster). Now 'if' it would fit in a small fby tmorris9 - General
So I have had a AirWolf 3D printer for 2 weeks now (repitier) and using Slic3r & Pronterface (Mac) Still learning settings. So I used a setting supplied to me by AirWolf 3D and while my prints are getting better and better I have an issue I can't figure out. When the printer switches from an exterior wall to infill it leaves a dimple in the side. Basically when the ends of the outer wall layby tmorris9 - General