Change Interface layers to 2 or 3. This allows for the support to cool more and thus it's not adhered as well. Also it looks like your pattern spacing is way too low, mine it 5mm not .5mm. .5mm would make almost solid support instead from the top looking down it should look more like a square waveform pattern with 5mm between waves.by tmorris9 - Reprappers
Mutley, I just placed an order want wanted to make one comment about the website. With the sizes and buy now buttons so close together it's a little hard to figure out which "buy it now" button goes to which size. I would ether space them out a little bit or just put a separator line between them. Just a thought.by tmorris9 - General
If you used the stl then you missed the whole point of that particular object. The person that created it modified the gcode for different temps on each level to see the difference. That being said 200c is quite low for ABS, both of my printers will extrude at 200 but any prints can be pulled apart as layer adhesion is extremely low. I use to print at 235c to 240c but I have an all metal hotendby tmorris9 - Printing
I use to slip cast maybe 25 years ago just as a hobby. Pretty much anything you can make a plaster cast on can be slip cast as long as there are no undercuts. Of course you can also make silicone molds and cast many other materials and undercuts are not as critical.by tmorris9 - General
Just a thought, do you have the input voltage switch set correctly?by tmorris9 - Reprappers
I am assuming you are referring to the seam. A few things to check. Did you set the actual filament size in slic3r? (measure it with calipers) as it's rarely the rated size. Also under print settings / advanced, check to see what the extrusion width and perimeters are set to -0- is the normal staring for these. If that is not it, try lowering the extrusion multiplier under Filament Settings, normby tmorris9 - Printing
Some spots look filled in properly while others don't, make sure your your idler bearing is tight onto the filament as it may be slipping Also make sure the screw holding the gear onto the motor it tight and on the flat spot.by tmorris9 - Printing
That could be true. I might have to get back into trying the tumbler. There is also another trend of painting thick epoxy onto the surface with a paint brush, supposedly it's fairly easy and self leveling. I have not tried this which is odd since I sell epoxy for a living, I think I just have an aversion to using it since it's a job to me. Here is a link to one company if you want to explore thiby tmorris9 - General
I've also used a vibratory tumbler. It's descent though I used small plastic pyramid abrasives and they work pretty well, it came with walnut shell as well but I read somewhere that the small triangles were better for getting into small areas. It does take a very long time though I put several pieces in and started off at a few hour with very little difference. In the end 48 hours was needed to sby tmorris9 - General
It does not get much better after 2 coast (my normal application) much more than that and you start to loose definition in the model. Here is a photo of 2 trek communicators, one was a single coat of primer sealer, the other was coated with spot putty, sanded smooth then sprayed with primer sealer. (and of course painted).by tmorris9 - General
If you are in the U.S. there is a product called "Dupli-Color Filler Primer" that I use a lot. It will fill in about 70% of the print lines. If you want to go further than that I suggest you coat the part with spot putty and sand it first then use the filler primer. Both of these are available from automotive parts stores.by tmorris9 - General
Kurza the skirt is what they use to prime the nozzle, it is normally just a single loop around the entire area where all objects will be but a few mm away from the printed objects. The brim is used to keep parts from lifting and try to stop warping on ABS, it's mostly used on items with a small footprint to help hold them to the build platform. It's not -ON- by default for most printer but some pby tmorris9 - Printing
I'm in U.S. but can ship to you if you can't find someone.by tmorris9 - General
Yes, absolutely you can turn off brim (I hardly ever use it) under Print Settings / Skirt and Brim, there is a value for the brim, just set it to zero and it won't print a brim.by tmorris9 - Printing
JB weld is my go to adhesive for many things but I would not assemble a frame for a printer with it. It might work but you run the risk of losing all your work. Weld or bolt as others have said, then if you want you can JB it to make it even stronger.by tmorris9 - General
Yes it really does matter what the end use is. PLA lower temperatures and generally less finicky to print (no warping or enclosure needed). While ABS can withstand higher temperatures than PLA and is more durable over all (PLA can be brittle when thin). ABS is slightly softer than PLA and so PLA makes a stiffer structure. A very thin print of ABS can actually bend and can be useful when movementby tmorris9 - Reprappers
It sounds good in theory but you will never know until you try. It's possible prints would be worse with stirred up air but I just don't know. The heat bed basically bathes the part in hot air as it rises, but would the circulated air affect the thermistor on the bottom of the heated bed and actually lower the bed temperature by making it think it's hotter? I would be interested in your findingby tmorris9 - General
PEI is a plastic that negates the need for any spray, glue or other stuff to keep your item on the platform. It also allows easy removal once cooled.by tmorris9 - General
If it's something like this where you have a gap in a thin part, I always lower the perimeter numbers and thus it will infill it when I set infill to solid. Then you will see something like the second photo. I was unaware of the gap filling that the other user mentioned, I will have to try that one myselfby tmorris9 - Printing
You need to post this in the printing section. This is the semi dead Magazine section.by tmorris9 - RepRap magazine
My first guess would be over extrusion. In your slicer set the extrusion multiplier to .85 and see if that helps.by tmorris9 - Printing
The only fix is to download and print a hole size chart on Thingiverse and then design your holes based on that chart. Here is the one I designed I probably have used it 500 times since I designed it.by tmorris9 - Printing
FYI I am using Safari browser, it's a Mac browser but you can get it for Windows as well, though Chrome would be a good choice as well.by tmorris9 - Reprappers
I've heard people say 80c but mine is between 55c-60c and works fine for ABS.by tmorris9 - Reprappers
I just visited and everything is working normal for me.by tmorris9 - Reprappers
I published an item yesterday just fine.by tmorris9 - Reprappers
My brother in law was a pro painter and he said the only way to cover over sharpie markers when someone uses them on a wall is to use a spray lacquer (clear) over the sharpie and that will block it from bleeding through. So yes, it will bleed through paint, maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow but some day it will. I tried to paint over some sharpie graffiti at work and it looked fine but a fewby tmorris9 - General
The extrusion multiplier is just a fine adjustment for how much material is extruded.by tmorris9 - Reprappers