Quotercjoseb I will try it 210C - 217C, thanks. I was wondering if any hotend being too hot will cause a clogging issue as well. Now, this perhaps is not due to the breakdown of the PTFE inner tube or the PEEK insulator but that at those high temps, the PLA is OK only while its flowing through the hotend. When it cools down from such a high temp, it cools down somewhat differently and causesby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb Got the hotend on Friday, thanks Reg! She's a beauty and fits inside the Jhead mount from SmartFriendz with only a little trimming around the ledge that supports the arm. My cheap eBay PLA requires a high temp to melt, > 200c. What's the max temp that can be used with the Genie MK2? I can set them temp manually around 215 and feed PLA through it manually and it will start to eby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb Thanks for the tip Reg. I patiently await your nozzle which is the mail somewhere between Austrailia and Texas :-) Jose I hope you get it soon, it should be getting there any time now.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteDark Alchemist Quoteregpye QuoteZavashier I just awnsered a similar topic : QuoteZavashier To me it's more important to se what's inside the kit, than where you buy it. I bought a kit lookalike this one. And there were a lot of things I dislike in it. First, the acrylic frame. It's lightweight, fragile, and not stiff enough. You'd rather find a aluminium or wood frame kit, even if it's a bitby regpye - General
QuoteZavashier I just awnsered a similar topic : QuoteZavashier To me it's more important to se what's inside the kit, than where you buy it. I bought a kit lookalike this one. And there were a lot of things I dislike in it. First, the acrylic frame. It's lightweight, fragile, and not stiff enough. You'd rather find a aluminium or wood frame kit, even if it's a bit more expensive, it's worth theby regpye - General
QuotePlasteroid Have you checked the gcode of the file to be printed? I don't know why Cura makes for my printer: G1 Z15.0 F7800 ;move the platform down 15mm. I don' have a moving platform (wrong comment)? It's just a move up... I don't know how your Z probe works, but perhaps...the problem is in the gcode start? The same files have been printed before without any problem. This particular problby regpye - General Mendel Topics
This one has me beat. I have built a number of i3 machines and all of mine are working fine, no problems. A friend of mine built one too, same as what I build. He has been using it for a few months and he is really addicted now to 3D printing (like most of us here ha..ha..) So far he has put about 6 spools of filament through the machine with very few problems, only minor things that you alwaysby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quotercjoseb My J head from Maker Farm was severely clogged so I read up on this forum and elsewhere that Acetone is good for ABS but not PLA. I tried using some Methylene Chloride, which is the major chemical in the Ace Hardware's brush and roller cleaner but it not soften the PLA enough. Further reading and MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) has been tested to work but the stuff is really bad for you.by regpye - Smart_Rap
I ended up making my own and several of them. I did it because I wanted to improve the design, make it bigger and go with Bowden. It has all worked out very good, but a bit more expensive due to all the additional extras I have incorporated. I have designed it for the local Mens Shed, and the build can be see on my website.by regpye - General
Quotetouchthebitum Ok I tested G28 and G29 and it worked well , I see the various Z values on my LCD screen I use Cura OK, this is what I am using in the start code for Cura. You will need to make a few changes of course, but the basics are what you need. ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperatureby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quotetouchthebitum Yes, I followed all the steps on the guide....G92 and the two calibrations (hotend and Probe) .... I don't understand when I have to star the autolevelling. Do I have to implement it on the Gcode ? thanks Yes, important. After the G28 that does the homing routine, you need to call up the auto bed levelling routine with a G29. Put the G29 after the G28 in your start code. Whatby regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quotetouchthebitum Hello! I have some problems on this bed autolevelling. I'm able to make a 4 points autolevelling , it works well but when I lauch the printing process, it seems that the system had not memorized the Z positions and the hotend goes very deep on the glass bed.... I have to power off my printer before the break process I red that we have to activate these lines : #define EEPROM_by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quotercjoseb Which version would be best to use on the SmartRap? Smartfriendz Github: Marlin Github a.k.a. Erik Zalm: Version posted by Regpye: or are they all the same? Thanks, Jose All slightly different. My latest version is setup for easy setting for auto bed levelling, and I am using long reach tactile switches for the probe. The tactile switch is more reliable than the micro switcby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteprpickett Had success with both glue stick and wood glue thinned with 2x water. Glue stick worked too well, I thought I was going to break something trying to get the part off. Now that I have 2 glass plates set up with the PVA glue, I may stick with that rather than adding a heated bed. The hot-end is the biggest problem right now. I haven't had success with anything above a speed of 30. Iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteprpickett Issues fixed. Replace the M280 line with M402 and I had neglected the "-" sign on the z offset. Now I just have to work on getting PLA to stick to an unheated bed while I await Reg's hotend to replace the J-head clone. A good thick coating of PVA wood glue works well on a cool bed. Make sure that it is completely dry before using it, the colour should change from a white colour toby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotefabrice974 here Thanks, downloaded and installed. Has a few extra s built in. Looks good so far.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotercjoseb Thanks to Fabrice I was able to get a really good quality print. I switched over to the latest version of Cura, V15.0.1. and used his configuration settings. The only items I changed where the print speed to 20 mm/s, the infill to 40%, the support area to build plate and added a skirt of 5 lines 3 mm away from the print. Merci Fabrice !!!!!! Jose So where did you find this verby regpye - Smart_Rap
I have mainly used PLA, but ABS works too.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteldanut I never herd about this but sounds very interesting. I will definetly try it. Thanks. I like the fact that you don't have to reapply before each print. You should be able to get at least a dozen good prints using this method before clean off with water. Just apply again and away you go. I have had as many as 20 prints off the one coating, but it is important to let it cool before reby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteldanut Yes also I will have a Hall sensor version next. I have ordered customized PBC for hall sensor that is only 20x20mm small and will fit perfectly there. On my delta printers I use PEI as a bed substrate and works great. No more coating and messy stuff. This is a printer for someone that wants to print with blue tape and this is how I tested. The problem before was that the tip of hotby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteldanut Since I was never satisfied with existing solutions for probing the bed for autoleveling I designed a new mechanism that seems to be very precise and its not affected by bed surface or dirty hot end nozzle. This mechanism is under testing and will be available in near future. That is a very nice mechanism and could also be used for the hall effect sensor as well. I am wonderby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotefabrice974 hi everyone here is my last machine Looks pretty good. I love the colour.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotethe_digital_dentist Connecting 110V to the printer isn't a good idea because of potential safety problems. In order to be safe you'd have to connect through a transformer, but if you';re going to do that, you may as well use a lower, safer voltage. Glass plates are fine for unheated beds, but glass is a poor conductor of heat and you'll end up with hot and cold spots. Some people use an alby regpye - Mechanics
Quotercjoseb I can't bear the cheap chinese bearings anymore!!!! They are fine on the rods and then once you install them on the plates, they get this attitude, grind, halt, stop, we are not going anywhere! I don't want to order more from China. Looking at alternatives I got the diea to remove the balls :-) from insde one of the bearings which produces great results but also results in some plby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteprpickett Reg, Is this the 3rd smartrap build? I'm having trouble finding the stl files. I saw the extruder ones, the wide y axis, and some awesome chess pieces. . I have emailed you the full setby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteprpickett I am considering giving up on the 8mm version. I am having alignment problems/construction issues with the baseplate, x_plate, and y_plate as well as gt2 belt clearances. I tried overlaying the 6mm and 8mm versions and it appears that there are quite a few differences besides just the rod/bearing sizes/holes. Is there a history file with previous 8mm versions available? I'm willingby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteldanut I don't use autoleveling. It seems it creates more problem than it solves. I can tune bed leveling manually and I just do a single point probe to do the Z height check. No problem since then and I didn't have to worry about recalibrating in months. I plan to use a Hall sensor probe instead of microswitch for better accuracy. I need some time to design it. There is another good aspectby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotegriffinaeronautics I do not like the amount of play in the current servoless setup on the smartrap. I feel that the servo setup will allow for the hotend to have way less play. I also have odd endstops and I want to be able to use them. Does anyone have a file for a servo setup with GT2 belt and for the jhead lite v2.1? Or any suggestions that would help my process? I have gone back to servby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteloidor It arrived today and is extruding molten plastic like a charm! Now it's just the rest of the repstrap that needs tuning =D Hey it got there pretty quick for Christmas time, only 9 days from Australia to Sweden, amazing.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Here are some photos of the LED supplies that I use. Some are 12.5 amps when I can get them, and others are 6 amp as shown in the RAMPS tester that I have. Both seem to work without any issues at all. The 12.5 amp ones of coarse can be used with the normal heated beds that are available in 12 volt (I never use them) The RAMPS tester simulates a complete machine and has all the same charactby regpye - Smart_Rap