Quotecristian Thanks Reg! Although I read it too late... Yesterday I printed a new X end for my Smartrap to mount your hotend and at the same time to remove all the moving parts of the head. Now everything is fixed with screws, even the rods. I think that printing quality improved remarkably, tomorrow I'll post some pictures. With your hotend and PLA I managed to print at 0.05 layer height (andby regpye - Smart_Rap
A number of people have asked me about a mount for the Genie hotend and as there are so many different machines out there, I decided to make a generic type that can be bolted with just two bolts onto any flat surface. This means that a very simple design for mounting the mount on can be made and suit many different machines. The Genie mount has provision for a 30mm fan for active cooling of the hby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoterunninfarmer Would delrin tubes work? I've found Mcmasterr-Carr carry's them for imperial rod here: . Do you put notches in the inner diameter of your bushings such as in IGUS bearings? The size of bush is important to match the rod exactly, so maybe tubes ready made may not fit well enough. I was going to broach some recesses into the bushes, but after trying decided that it wasn't necessby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz personnaly i had a very short and quiet bad experience with brushing.. as with the smartrap, X and Y axis rods are in porte a faux.. we need some balls (no joke here to take the forces along the axis. I understand well it works when you have only sliding forces .. like on I3 x axis . What were the bushings made of Serge? I had very bad experience with bronze bushings and diby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotenophead I believe Ultimaker have to use bushes because linear bearings don't like rotation and Ultimakers use the same shaft for both. Bearings should not damage rods in months. They last for years of continuous use for me. The rods need to be hardened steel and h6 tolerance though. The problem with bushings is they need some clearance giving some slop and that only increases as they wear.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Update on the Delrin bushes. I made a few sets of standard size Delrin bushes that would replace the normal 8mm linear bearings. What I found was that it is hard to line them both up and it causes some drag. I think the problem was not the bush, but the printed mount that the bush is pressed into. I tried for a while and they did work a bit looser, but I was not real happy with the setup. I deciby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemikefiatx19 Just a thought, Delrin is sold in long square bars so in theory you could make your bushings long and rectangular. That way you could even drill small holes through the square bar to mount it to the smartrap. Might make mounting a bit more secure than the cable tie option and it would look more streamlined. Delrin is available in several shapes. If you can't find the shape andby regpye - Smart_Rap
I have added a section on my website showing how to re-assemble a Genie MK2 hotend, just in case someone needs to know how to do it correctly. The link is on the hotend page, part way down the page. There are a few things to watch, so that you get the best performance. The same information can be used on all MK1and MK2 hotends that will be sent out from now on, as the improvements are being addby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemarkstephen Quotesmartfriendz Smartrap V2 should be completely different . I would like to have the bed not moving and still a good support for the head to be able to develop multi heads , seringe for food , laser cut, etc... let's design Are you thinking about a coreXY - "Smartrap style" - or something else? I have been giving some thought to coreXY type my own self, with the #1 design criby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz To be honest, i didn't want to be too much like the printrbot but the real reason is history reason : at the beginning, i couldn't have the Z rods to be turned 90 because it made a base plate too big for the printer i had ( limited to 100x100 printing size). I know it''s crazy but it's true. I think i will try to have a version like regpye did very soon.. it's obvious we getby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteXhnnas Maybe you really had a good supplier. I did't wanted to buy at aliexpress because of bad experiences with electronics. I see, you added on github new 8mm version, correct? What about a new allignment of the X axis rods? Instead of horizontally, vertically like the fabrap? Or did you have any special plans for the next version? I have tried turning the X rods 90 degrees and found an iby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotesmartfriendz ho boy ... tha'ts bad . I really didn't know it could be a problem those 6mm sorry about that . .. I will have a look how to re-integrate the all 8mm version . It doesn't change so much for me . thank you for your feedback by the way. it's very interesting I am also mounting away from the metal linear bearings. Although cheap and easy to get, they are very noisy and don't laby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteXhnnas So, after one month just a short feedback: I think why it's not working on my smartrap are the 6mm rods. The entire Axis is bending to much when he reaches the point 170/180. There is so much force, that some parts cracked. As I told, I've an other smartrap with 8mm rods, I can use the autolevel routine on this printer and it works really fine. So I would prefer in future builds toby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemikefiatx19 Hi Reg, Genie Mk 2 ordered. I found a fan at and it worked well on my Jhead lite for cooling the hotend and the part. But i want to upgrade anyway as I sometimes have issues with the extruded plastic not coming out straight down and it tries to curl up the side of the nozzle. Looking forward to trying the new Genie Mk 2 when it arrives. Regards Mike I am sure you will be pleaby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotecristian The lazy way: a 2mm aluminum wire to hold the fan. It can be attached anywhere on the X arm and it allows re-adjusting the fan in all the positions and directions. Sometimes simple is best ha..ha.. Good one Cristian.by regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteBackEMF I use a 80 mm fan like that on the Smartrap and there is always a way to make a fancy fan duct. If you need to.. Or do something with bernoulli in mind. Yes You are right Mano, and on the MagicMakers I placed a fan behind the nozzle, mounted on an aluminium plate that was bent about 45 degrees and put a 40mm fan on that. It blew across the piece as it was being printed and also conby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemikefiatx19 I had a look at the I3 on your website. I dont think fitting the 80mm fan like that would be an option on the smartrap due to the space needed. Regards Mike Yes you are quiet right. I use a stand that is movable on the SmartRaps, I can place the stand where ever convenient I am also thinking about what is the best way to mount a piece cooling fan, it is not an easy solution.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quotemikefiatx19 Hi Reg, With your hotend do you offer the option of the regular cooling fan for the top of the hotend and also the option of cooling the printed part for bridging etc.? Regards Mike I have just started making some Bowden i3 machines after learning so much about Bowden with the SmartRaps. The latest version of the i3 has a 30mm fan for cooling the top of the hotend. I am using Geby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteDust you have fried the voltage regulator on the mega2560 board, without this your mega needs to be plugged into USB for power See for how to fix it (I dont recommend replacing with 7805, but it does show you the parts to look at and what they were Thanks for that info, I will check it out.by regpye - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteRobert_Paulson Finally found a good pneumatic fitting for 3mm tubing. They (SMC) don't make 3mm fittings, but they do make 1/8" fittings. Probably because 1/8" and 3mm are so close. Damn metric system. No problem getting metric sizes for nuts bolts or fittings if you live in any other part of the World except USA. I don't know why USA is so backward in changing to the metric system like moby regpye - Smart_Rap
Update on the Delrin bushes. Strange that this happened, but after talking about this issue on this thread, one of my printers developed a big problem with the linear bearings on the Y axis. It started making a horrible grinding type of noise as it moved back and forth. (sounded like the balls were grabbing on the shaft) It seemed to be printing OK, so I left it to do a print that took about 1 hoby regpye - Smart_Rap
I had my printer working fine and I made a silly mistake when tired. I plugged one of the limit micro switches in across the positive and negative pins instead of the signal pin. A puff of smoke. Can't see any damage anywhere on the board and the diode seems to be OK. The printer will work fine in everyway, except now when I disconnect the USB the printer will reset and power down loosing all thaby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
Quotegaston Hi, fun to see my video here I don't know if you see in this video that it isn't really a Smartrap it's her daughter The Gastrap is a mix of Smartrap, Regpye mod and a little bit of my madness It was full printed on the Smartrap (also bushings ) because I have some meters of stainless steel smooth rod in 10 mm and I wanted to try More pictures of this "thing" here (clic on piby regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteknife-edge Sorry reg you just caught me a few minutes too late. I just ordered steppers, ramps, and the linear rods and I decided to go with bearings. I ordered 12 lm8uu's and 10lm6uu's so I'm set for a while. No problem, they will last quiet a while. I will have fully tested the Delrin ones before yours wear out, so if mine are any good you can always change over to them when needed. In thby regpye - Smart_Rap
I am at present experimenting with Delrin bushes. The first tests seem to be very good. I tried some brass bushes and found that I had jamming issues, don't know why. The Delrin has a proper bearing surface, is easy to machine and the price of the material is not too much. So far I have used all metal linear bearings and although they are designed for the job, I also find that they are noisy aby regpye - Smart_Rap
This is my start and end codes for Cura. 14.09 I am having no problems with mine, it is working perfectly. My start code puts down a small line of filament to prime the nozzle before printing. ;Start code ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;by regpye - General Mendel Topics
Quoteknife-edge Reg is there something I would need to do in return? I'm interested in that deal. No conditions, just use it and enjoy it. If you find it useful you may want to let others know. PM me for sending details of your address for postage.by regpye - Smart_Rap
Quoteknife-edge Yes please guys. I an still just trying to find the best way to fit a Bowden tube to a jhead light 2.1 I have a deal for you. If you pay the postage I will give you a new Genie hotend Mk1, with a set of nozzles, 0.3mm, 0.4mm and 0.5mm. With a 100K thermistor, all the extra fittings so you can use it with other models if you choose to make a different machine at a later date, andby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteRobert_Paulson Forget about the thermistor. You called me cheap. This is something deeply offensive to me. I don't really care about 3d printing or smartrap or the whole reprap universe. I do what I do for the open source community. Not for Serge, not for you. I respect you reg. But a little reciprocation would be nice. Kyle you should read more carefully, I didn't call you cheap' I said "yby regpye - Smart_Rap
QuoteRobert_Paulson I think axial components are the way to go. Sorry about the misunderstanding reg. Hard to see what's going on undrneath all that kapton. The photo you have posted is of an early version of my MagikMaker. It uses many laser cut aluminium parts and the heatsink on the hotend really is not needed because of the heat break. The aluminium parts suck up any residual heat and mby regpye - Smart_Rap