You could, but 3.75 step angle is half what you would normally use. Plus at 0.5a I should think they would be very low on torqueby lazzymonk - Controllers
Yep shouldn't be a problem at all, they would just be in place of extruder motorsby lazzymonk - Controllers
You could also do which will show all pages. or you could add a keyword or 2.by lazzymonk - General
A better picture would be good. But from what I can see it is a jerk problem. The printer is essentially stopping at every little direction change causing slight over extrusion and there for a blob. Try increasing the jerk setting in firmware.by lazzymonk - General
Have you checked the filament? Inconsistent size will cause exactly that problemby lazzymonk - Reprappers
I think the main reason is because it is being used for what it is designed to do. It is made for linear motion therefore is perfectly straight (in theory). Threaded rod is almost never straight.by lazzymonk - General
Ive been thinking about this too. So far ive come up with a fan for cooling and a few large resistors for heating. Other than that the other option is peltier heater / cooler connected to a h-bridge so it can be reversed is my only other optionby lazzymonk - General
QuoteMattMoses What if somehow the 3D printer could print all of its own components? Then anyone who had one could print another one for a friend... It would have to be some kind of... some kind of... self-replicating 3D printer. If only there was a like button on these forumsby lazzymonk - General
Diameter of tube in pump = filament width Nozzle size = nozzle size Length of polymer drawn through pipe / pump steps (how ever you control your pump) = steps per mm I maybe completely off track but surely is fairly simple?by lazzymonk - General
In theory any printer can do layers down to 1 step on the z axis so 0.004mm if using m5 screws. But in reality it is all about how accurately you can control filament feeding. How how long you can be bothered to wait for tiny layers to print.by lazzymonk - General
I would have thought that Middle is half way between 0 and max. Have you set the max_pos for x and y int the config?by lazzymonk - General
My heat bed just uses one pair of 14awg silicone wire ( very flexible and resistant to temperatures greater than a heated bed can get to). which is from here www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121190914940 and yes more wire = less resistance so higher temperatures. I wouldnt be concerned about the motor bearing. they spend very little time spinning.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Looks to me like you are trying to drive them too fast. What is your max feed rate set to for z?by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
When I had a Chinese clone it was just unreliable. It would jam often, required a lot of force to extrude and just caused all sorts of inconsistencies that I thought were due to how I had set it up. Basicelly I spent more time trying to figure out what I was doing wrong than printing. Cello tape on the thermistor is a bad idea. It will fail , it's just a matter of when. If your lucky when iby lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
I couldn't recommend either as I only ever print from sd card. As for the current thing. Could be either but likely too little.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
Welcome Good effort, all looks good. You say you dont like the floating z axis? It is commonly accepted that floating z axis is better. It greatly reduces z wobble. If you are struggling to get the z couplers to stay on the motor shaft I would recommend a small piece of fish tank air pipe over the stepper shaft then put the coupler on. It holds very well that way and should never move, unlike tby lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
have you got #define SERIAL_PORT 0 set in the config? must be 0 for marlin on rampsby lazzymonk - Reprappers
Maybe look at the i3 box frame. It uses mdf rather than aluminium, and I think its a much better way of doing it as it is more stable and you dont need to pay someone else to make it for you. as for everything else, just shop around. You can get everything you need fairly cheap. And dont be afraid of buying from china.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
Could you post a picture of the connector you or referring to? As for wire, I like silicon wire. Its very flexible (good given 3d printers move) and its resistant to high temperatures (is happy being at 200c) which normal wire can melt at heated bed temperatures, if it doesnt melt it can become brittle and the insulation crack which is bad.by lazzymonk - General Mendel Topics
try upgrading to the latest slic3r (1.0.0 RC2 i think) see what that does.by lazzymonk - Reprappers
that would only work with 6v fans. 2 fans connected in series with a 12v supply will get 6v each, Max. If you set the max fan speed to 255 (which is the max) you only get 12v still. Its simple electronics. The best way to do it is to connect them in parallel.by lazzymonk - General
I use these www.ebay.nl/itm/400439777367 but if you search "Blower Fan 4020S" you will find othersby lazzymonk - Controllers
Quotegmh39 Basically an 1-1.5 hour pause at the beginning of the g-code (before anything heats up).by lazzymonk - General
Why not just connect them in parallel? Anything that can drive one fan should not have a problem driving 2. They use less than 0.2amps normally.by lazzymonk - General
Silly me. Should not reply to forum posts while half asleep. I re read and realised what your trying to do. You want G4 Dwell. From the wiki QuoteWikiG4: Dwell Example: G4 P200 In this case sit still doing nothing for 200 milliseconds. During delays the state of the machine (for example the temperatures of its extruders) will still be preserved and controlled. so if you were to put G4 P5400by lazzymonk - General
Nothing is jumping out as being incorrect. Are you sure the wiring is correct?by lazzymonk - General
Is there a question here?by lazzymonk - Controllers
They are easy to use. In fact they are the most common type of fan. The extra wire is just an rpm sensor and can be ignored. You can plug one into the 12v aux pins between the fuses and the x axis driver.by lazzymonk - Controllers