Dirty Steve Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds more like dropped Z steps when printing, so > when you reset for the next print the nozzle is > physically lower than your controller thinks it > is. > > If you are running 2 Z axis motors, one side can > drop steps, making it appear the bed is not level > when actually Z is tilted to oneby tattooedfish - General
got home opened up slic3r and it worked like a charm that is a nifty lil trick I overlooked thanks againby tattooedfish - General
I don't know how this keeps happening but I will level the bed and get amazing prints I printed all day yesterday and got about 4 good solid prints. Today came home after work decided to print some more so I ran a bed level test to make sure it was still right everything is fine so I go to start a print and come back to it a few min later to find the jhead ripping through the tape on the bed Sby tattooedfish - General
Ohmarinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Btw, something being suspended in mid air is > indeed not a problem when you split up the parts. > It's not possible to just generate support > material? If it is I'm too novice to know how it would be easier if knew cad I would just design a new part with a breakaway tab that it bridges toby tattooedfish - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Slic3r is able to split STL files. Open up the > newest version of Slic3r, import the plate, click > "split", and there you go. From there you can > arrange the pieces how you like and then export it > into a new STL. I just did a test of plate 3: I > imported the STL, hit "split", then "autoarrangby tattooedfish - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks like some of the parts are floating on plate > 3, and the parts on plate 1 will require support. > I wish he had uploaded a .zip of the individual > parts. Exactly .. I know there are ways around this but I can't find any solid info on how to do itby tattooedfish - General
I'm trying to make this rc car on thingiverse If u download and inspect plate number 1 I don't see how the 4 matching pieces are printable? I've tried 3 times now how do you print a part that is suspended in mid air with nothing to bridge itself to? Is this even possible? Also other issue is on plate number 3 or 4 there are 4 pieces that in mid air someone said there is a way to fix it from reby tattooedfish - General
I am getting out it was fun and a great learning experience but no time to print and could use the funds to other projects I have listed on eBay CLICK HEREby tattooedfish - For Sale
Hey guys I have a issue with my heat bed I tried using search function so before I get the book threw at me Im using mk 1 heat bed and it takes about a good 10 minutes to get up to temps and also when I need to use a fan to blow on my hot end It causes the bed too cool off and my prints unstick from the kapton tape. I am printing with 3mm abs The wire for my heat bed is pretty thin its 22G mby tattooedfish - General
Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nice! I hope it works well for you. You know, most > people don't seem to realise that there was an > upgrade to the extruder body that went along with > that that made observing and cleaning the Hobbed > bolt easier (wider opening at the top of the > extruder body). I did and I'm printing that next whby tattooedfish - Look what I made!
17 views and no response tough crowd. I am assuming this might be something that has been answered over and over and over. I know a lot of the good programs out there that are popular just wondered if anyone had any good suggestions on tutorials if anything else.by tattooedfish - 3D Design tools
I know its not much but im just excited that my prints are finally starting to turn out true and accurate this should help me with my issues of my filament wanting to print This part is know as the guidler by greg Gregs Guidler / Extruderby tattooedfish - Look what I made!
Let's say I'm complete novice and know absolutely nothing when it comes to how to design models in 3d space. My main focus is easy to use and supporting tutorials on how to do it. I really don't want a limited software that doesn't do.a lot but I don't want to be overwhelmed. I just want to be able to make my own designs to print as I see a need to.print something instead of.hoping someone elsby tattooedfish - 3D Design tools
I would like to know more about this as well. I definitely see on some of my prints where I could use a fan and that's with abs. On taller fast prints the layers want to deform some because they can't cool fast enough and start deforming some I would think if you have the right fan or an adjustable mount u can get one fan for both and have all ur bases coveredby tattooedfish - General
Glad to see u got it working for . I wasn't meaning like drill out the hole large just simply with extruded parts they might not be within 100% of exact size depending on who printed the part and deburing with a 1.75 but would ensure appropriate size. Let us know if u have any other issuesby tattooedfish - General
For any of u that have been following some of my threads and issues I've been having with my prints last night I stumbled upon a thread that talked about measuring actual travel based on jogging each axis 100 mm where I take 100mm/(actual travel)*number in float value and enter result in ramps and repeat until I get actual 100mm travel when I jog 100mm. I did this for my x, y, z and worked out gby tattooedfish - General
I would.back the temps down a bit I know filaments are different but my filament flows well at 210by tattooedfish - General
I'm not even fully done tweaking my prusa i2 yet and I'm already wanting a bigger and better reprap lol. I would love to modify or even have a second machine. In all honestly some of the things I've decided I don't like about the design and it very well may be trivial but I want a 12x12 print bed. I also feel like the frame needs to stay out of the print area. I will probably never exceed a prinby tattooedfish - General
You want tolerance to be tight but still for the most part slide in with little to no wiggle a little drag is OK but u don't want to have to useforce to get it through bend the filament some to get it straight should go through much easier also make sure your hot end lines up properly with the hole in the bottom of extruder. If you have hinged extruder you should be able to directly insert the fby tattooedfish - General
OK just wanted to make sure thanksby tattooedfish - General
I know how to use d9 for adding a controllable fan to blow on my extruded "but" how do I go about adding in a small fan for my ramps. I really want to use a 3rd thermistor to sit on the heat sink for the x driver this seems to be the one that does the most work and gets hot first. Honestly the heat sinks are keeping things cool enough but I would like that extra protection Tying to maintain asby tattooedfish - General
I know its not like springs are an expensive part but if your like me looking at numbers and thickness online from sellers doesn't tell you much. I feel "literally" that these springs will do the job without the need to tighten down my extruder bolts too much. I am really tempted to use them on my bed for leveling since there is 4 but i really need them on my extruder more than my bed right nowby tattooedfish - General
thanks "wire" is what took me the longest. I learned the best and easiest way was to spend 20 bux on a wire kit that comes with all the wires pre labeled and in pin connectors cut to length and soilder made it way easier. I really suck when it comes to de pinning stuffby tattooedfish - General
its currently out of comission (waiting on a new hot end) broke my last one. I decided since I can't print with my reprap I might as well make some modifications. and share my reprap I only used makerfarm for the hot end laser cut bed and acrylc plate for across the front of the prusa most of everything else was ordered from various ebay sellers, I used hardware from mcmaster.carr using 5by tattooedfish - General
They have a whole.section of springs at lowes just ask.someone usually at the end of.the hardware section.however the.one set I.found that would work were way too weak and didn't do well for me at all.by tattooedfish - General
I was using the all in one file that is sprinter/marlin mix I am not sure yet if the firmware was to blame for the cause of this however it very well could be I spike with makerfarm which is where I got the first one and asked if they would provide me with the correct configuration file for the thermister and resistor that I purchased I'm also going.to see about setting.up a cut off when temp excby tattooedfish - General
thejollygrimreaper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > i blame the nargles ... Indeedby tattooedfish - General
Figured out my issues was a broken head that I must have over heated... shrugs but ima try one of em anyway can't hurt to have sparesby tattooedfish - General
I'm pretty sure I selected the right thermistor in my settings I had it set to 230 my prints just seemed to do better at that temp. I will back it down I didn't realize these were pushed so close to the maximum envelope. I went ahead and picked up another one. Hopefully I can get back and running by the end of the week.. I guess I will have spare parts might switch over to pla for a little whileby tattooedfish - General