I am running Marlin latest and gratest. Problem with M1 is that Pronterface continues to send gcode, thus it will immediately wake up the printer again. From reading the wiki on gcodes, Pronterface should imho be aware of M226, and stop sending commands to the printer, until the operator pressed the resume button: Initiates a pause in the same way as if the pause button is pressed. That is, prby Ralf - Reprappers
I'm experimenting a bit with embedding things inside printed parts, and to do that I need to pause the print, at a speficic layer height. Hitting the bause button in Pronterface does pause the print, but it is difficult to predict, when exactly the printer pauses, since the printer is buffering up commands, and needs to empty this buffer before it stops printing. M226 is silently ignored by Proby Ralf - Reprappers
You probably need some cooling on the upper part of the hotend, to prevent that heat creeps up through the barrel where the filament enters.by Ralf - Printing
It looks like your Z-rods isn't straight. If your Z-rods isn't straight, they will enter the nuts at an angle, when the rod rotates the point of contact between the rod and the nut will move around in circles inside the nut, this leadd to non linear movement of the Z axis, compressing some layers and expanding other. Flexible Z couplers may get rid of some of the ripple effect, but number one iby Ralf - Printing
Quoteduckfriedrice But the Z value is not so consistent. Whenever I start to print, the Z height is sometimes too low or too high. The presicion or rather lag of presision, of the SG-90, is very dependent on temperature, so when switching between PLA and ABS, I had problems with the Z-height drifting quite a bit. You can try and grap this: Before it is patented by Makerbot. With this I haveby Ralf - Reprappers
Have you enabled Detect Thin Walls, under Layers and perimeters?by Ralf - Slic3r
It's in Configuration.h But if you have eeprom settings enabled, you can change it with M205 without having to recompile the firmware.by Ralf - Reprappers
Normally if I have problems with overhanging perimeters, I slow down. Not sure if it is the best solution, but for ABS is is often the only, apart from printing more of the same part. This is to allow the layer to cool before the next layer is laid down. But if printing pridges in thin air, speeding up is most often the best option.by Ralf - Printing
^What he said.. I have seen that "Detect Bridging Perimeters" triggers the bridging logic in Slic3r on overhangs, so at overhanging perimeters the print speed from bridges print speed is used, this is default 60mm/s. 88 degrees is too hot for PLA, normally the bed temperature should be around 60 degrees, so this is probably part of the problem. Try if you can get the print to stick without heatby Ralf - Printing
Adding a fan when printing pla, makes life a lot easier. Thaid said, layer width vs. layer height e.g. Width Over Thickness, has an influence on the quality of overhanging perimeters, the wider you print, the more overhang you can get away with. Sli3r doesn't seem to care about this. For a test I made a cone with a 30 degree overhanging taper, and sliced it with 0.25mm layer height. With a nozzby Ralf - Printing
Do you have a fan blowing on the print also? On the other pictures I can only see a fan pointed towards the hotend, that might not be enough. Slowing down a bit might also help. Also have you tried to raise the temperature? if you go too low the plastic might not be fluid enough, when it is extruted, this can be a problem on pointy overhangs.by Ralf - Printing
I just drill the hole in the lathe to the final size, and polish it on the inside using the drilling macine and a swab dipped in brasso, so far this have worked fine. The first ever hotend I made wasn't even polished on the inside, but it only saw ABS, so it probably doesn't really countby Ralf - Reprappers
You can't export the original configuration file from the Arduino, once the firmware is build, so the closest you can get is the output from M503, which gives you the settings that the printer is using, to get the original build in parameters first send M502 and then M503, but that's probably not what you want. M500 stores the settings, so don't use that after you have send M502, unless you wantby Ralf - General
It could also be heat radiated from the heater block, if it isn't isolated. It looks as the problem is worst in the bottom of the print, when the print is receiving heat from both the hotend and the heatbed.by Ralf - Printing
For a starter this was meant more a request for comments, or as a test baloon to see if there were any interest at all, I have no beleif that I can revolitionize the RepRap design by reducing the number of connectors. But remember that defining standards isn't only about documenting what already exists, it is also about improving existing designs. My reason for reducing the number of connectorby Ralf - Developers
Quoteduckfriedrice 1. After homing the XYZ Axis the nozzle is moved to somewhere in near the center of the bed (Around 3cm away from the center), I'd like the nozzle to stop at the XYZ min spot automatically after auto homing You'll probably have to hack the firmware to do that, and most often you'll start printing immediately after homing, so the usefullness of that is pretty limited. I have maby Ralf - Reprappers
Almost.. So far just a thought.. but.. Every time I want to disconnect and reconnect my printer from the controller to service it, it's a pain. I have about 15 connectors, which all needs to go the right places in the right orientations, and when connected, the whole thing looks like a mess, almost.. If I had a single connector, my life would be much easier, a 36 pin SUB-D connector should bby Ralf - Developers
That's good to hear.. Strangely enough I haven't had any problems with at jerky servo, even though the wires for the servo is strapped together in a loom with the extruder motor, hotend and a pwm controlled fan. I did at some point enable PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY, but not because of a jerky servo, it just seemed like a good idea. So if you haven't enabled it yet, it might be worth givingby Ralf - Reprappers
Define statements are case sensitive, so if you have lower case num_servos, #ifdef NUM_SERVOS won't test true, and the servo code won't be included in the firmware. I had some issues with the newer Marlin on Arduino 0023, so I moved to 1.0.5, where it more or less worked out of the box. Apart from that pin 11 sounds right, so if you manage to get it to compile, it *should* work.by Ralf - Reprappers
.35 and .5 nozzle, 3mm filament, both ABS and PLAby Ralf - General
Search for SERVO0_PIN, and you will find pin definitions for where the servo is connected. But beware that it might not be included for your motherboard type, if it isn't just copy-paste the defines, to the section with pin definitions for your board. As for pin numbering I am not sure that I can help, as I have failed to see the logic behind the way pins are numbered in Arduino. I have figuredby Ralf - Reprappers
Have you defined the servo pin in pins.h? Also make sure that the servo pin defines, is included in the ifdefine section that matches your motherboard, I overlooked this and wasted a day on debugging.by Ralf - Reprappers
Just remember that the heated bed and hotend is normally wired to 12V and not ground.by Ralf - Developers
Normally, when grounding temprature sensors and other noise sensitive stuff, it's best to have individual ground wires, running all the way to the PCB. But... the only thing that I can come up with in a RepRap that is somewhat noise sensitive, is the thermistors, and they are filtered both analog and digitally. And add to this that the external ground in a Reprap really doesn't carry any currentby Ralf - Developers
Have you checked that you heatbed, or the connections to it isn't shorted? And did you bridge the burnt PCB trace with a wire or some solder, after you replaced the mosfet?by Ralf - Reprappers
660 steps/mm actually sounds pretty normal, if you run 1/16 microstepping on a 8mm bolt. Did you set up microstepping for the extruder correctly, and have you tried to bump up the feedrate for the extrusion?by Ralf - Reprappers
I have the same issue with some green and yellow PLA, it's hard as glass, and if I don't remove it from the printer, it will snap within a day or two. However it gives very nice prints.by Ralf - Reprappers
Could it be that you have "Detect bridging perimeters" enabled? I found that filleted or chamfered edges sometimes triggers the bridging logic when this is enabled.by Ralf - Slic3r
+1 to what vreihen said. I had the exact same problem, until I enabled PID for the heated bed.by Ralf - Printing
It could look like one of your Z screws is not straight, this can cause non linear motion in the Z direction, so some layers will be compressed, and other will barely touch eachother.by Ralf - Printing