Yep, just change steps/mm in the firmware, but depending on the quality of the gearbox, there is a fair chance that you will get issues with backlash.by Ralf - General
There is something odd about this: Bed x: 130.00 y: 150.00 z: 5.19 From the other 3 probings I would expect this to be around 3.70 to 3.75 Are you sure the bed is not warped? The output from my G29 looks like this: Bed x: 35.00 y: 20.00 z: 4.90 Bed x: 170.00 y: 20.00 z: 4.95 Bed x: 170.00 y: 170.00 z: 4.71 Bed x: 35.00 y: 170.00 z: 4.67 Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: -0.00 d: 4.92 planeNormal x:by Ralf - Reprappers
Do you have any cooling on the upper part of the hotend? And are you sure it's the right size filament for the hotend, from the zig-zagging fiilament on 20140420_163606.jpg, it looks like the hole in the hotend is too big for the filament.by Ralf - Printing
What about bad bearings/bushings? Maybe they bind somewhere along X? If you move the print center in Slic3r, you should be able to see if it is mechanical or software.by Ralf - Reprappers
It looks like you are overextruding a tiny bit. When the first layers are solid, there is nowhere for the extra plastic to go, and the nozzle drags around in it. When the inffill starts there is more room for the extra plastic, and you dont see the overextrusion. It could also be the the hotend that is too close to the bed, this will also put out more plastic than there is room for, but overextby Ralf - Printing
There is a delete button next to the save button, so just select the preset, and hit delete..by Ralf - General
Try to reduce the bed temperature after the first layer, and and raise the hotend temperature, if you are not allready in the 240 degree range. A fan is usually bad for ABS, it's better to print more parts at a time, and/or reduce speed.by Ralf - Printing
Just for fun and out of boredom I visited archive.org, and it seems like the RepRap project had it's 10 year anniversary on February 2, this year.. "Copyright © Adrian Bowyer, 2 February 2004; 7 March 2005. Centre for Biomimetic and Natural Technology, University of Bath. These pages and all downloads and documents for the Bath RepRap Project are covered by the GNU General Public Licence. Cby Ralf - General
That is normal behaviour, the temperature of bed and hotend is reported every few seconds, until they reaches the temperature configured in Slic3r. Doesn't the relayed temperature rise? Per default Slic3r will first set the bed temperature, wait for the bed to reach it, then warm up the hotend, and then start printing. If your PID settings for the bed isn't tuned correctly, or if your PSU isby Ralf - General
You will have to experiment with the parameters, to find out what works best on your printer, there is simply too many variables that can be tuned, and something which works on one printer might not work on another printer. There is a reason why comercial printers is locked down in every way, requiring filament from the vendor, and has a limited selection of hotends etc. as this is the only wayby Ralf - Printing
You might want to append a feedrate to G0 Something like G0 Z0 F100by Ralf - General
Yep should be fine, you can even go higher, some print at 250 degrees, I normally print ABS at 245, and that works ok.by Ralf - Printing
More heat on the hotend, 108 is fine for the bed, but if you get problems with overhangs and pointy details curling up, for the bottom 1-5 mm of the print, you might have to lower the bed temperature after the first layer.by Ralf - Printing
It ts perfectly doable to print ABS at room temperature without the parts delaminating, of course boxing the printer in a heated chamber is better.by Ralf - Printing
If you install Perl a script could look like this: open(GCODE, $ARGV[0]) or die("Could not open file."); foreach $line (< GCODE > ) { chomp($line); $line =~ s/^G1.*E-.*$/M42 P4 S0/; $line =~ s/^(G1 E0.01000.*)$/\1\nM42 P4 S255/; print "$line\n"; } close(GCODE); Remove the extra spaces in the 'foreach' line. I'm not sure you can do it with native Windowsby Ralf - Slic3r
Doh.. And the cut seem to be made in a image manipulation program, so it is probably fully functional.by Ralf - General
If you are om a Linux or other box with some *nix tools, the following will do it quick an dirty: cat some.gcode | perl -pi -e "s/^G1.*E-.*$/M42 P4 S0/" | perl -pi -e "s/^(G1 E0.01000.*)$/\1\nM42 P4 S255/" > someother.gcodeby Ralf - Slic3r
There is no guarantees, but printing ABS too cold, typically leads to delamination. Your hobbed bolt is probably ok if it's from RepRapWorld.by Ralf - Printing
Have you checked if cooling is enabled under the Filament Settings tab?by Ralf - Slic3r
You should try to get the pemperature up a bit, wraping the heater block on the hotend in some kind of isolation, will help, but depending on hotend design, this is easier said than done, I use "power wrap" normally used to isolate exhaust manifolds. An alternative is Kapton applied loose, e.g. with a lot of folds and air boubbles, the uglier the better.. Also take a close look at the hobbed boby Ralf - Printing
The defects seen on the pictures you posted, wont disapear by switching to a bowden setup, it might be even more dificult to get rid of them, as you have a few more variables to take into account with a bowden setup. My limited experience with a bowden setup is that it requires more tuning to get nice results, compared to a classic setup with the extruder mounted directly above the hotend. Alsoby Ralf - Printing
If you want to print fast, a bowden setup is the way to go, as it keeps the weight down on the moving parts. But unless you have a H-Bot or a Delta printer you will still be limited by the weight of the moving bed.by Ralf - Printing
Seems pretty stable to me.. I use glass with Kapton on top of the PCB heater, but I have considered switching to Aluminium, to get a more even heat distribution, when using the fan.by Ralf - Printing
It looks like a mock up, you can also see smooth rod coming out of the idler, which has not been cut to length. Anyway, M8 bolts come in different flavours, some with 13mm hex and some with 12mm hex. In Europe you are most likely to find 13mm.by Ralf - General
Quoteradus NO! you a wrong. nozzle diameter used for calculate dimensions of model. My cube is 10x10 mm. If set nozzle diameter to 1mm then makes 0.5*diameter offset from edges of cube. And if nozzle diameter be more than extrusion width my cube be smallest than 10x10 mm. I was wrong about nozzle diameter only being used as a basis for calculating extrusion width. The nozzle offset from the edgby Ralf - Slic3r
You could try to lower the retraction speed to 20mm/s just to see if it changes anything, if for some reason the extruder is skipping, when it is un-retracting, you will have under extrusion after every retracts. It looks like that is happening around the hole on the first picture. Ideally you shouldn't use a fan when printing ABS, I use it sometimes, but only at about 20-30% speed, just to creaby Ralf - Printing
That looks quite ok, but it can be dificult to see on pictures. Also pictures sometimes reveals all the gory details, that you normally wouldn't notice.. For refence I did a test, with 0.2mm layers, a 20x20mm cylinder, it's sliced with Slic3r 1.0.0, printed in PLA, unfortunately I don't have any black PLA, the nozzle is 0.35mm. FW is Marlin, latest and greatest, settings of interest is: Maxiby Ralf - Printing
Looks like inconsistent extrution, are you sure that the extruder can do 40mm/s retracts, and that it is not skipping when printing? Also check for gunk in the hobbed bolt. 220 degree is a bit low for ABS, I would try at least 235 degrees, this should advoid delamination, if you are not underextruding too much.by Ralf - Printing
Extruder accleration is normally above 1000, unless you have a very special setup. I run my wades at 5000mm/s2 (1.5mm retract @30mm/s), and this works like a charm, almost to a point where I am missing plastic at retraction points.by Ralf - Printing
Does the printer just come to a halt, or does it continue moving without extruding filament? Looking at the first picture, it could look like that yoy are printing PLA and that the hotend is jamming. But that is just a guess.by Ralf - Printing