Not that I don't believe you (we've had plenty of bad experiences ourselves) but do you have any proof of your claim. Your pic is just a generic, unmarked ATX PSU, while your feedback on the company is important random negative comments are probably not the best thing ever.by diytechshop - General
What firmware are you using? I know that marlin keeps speeds regular enough that this isn't usually a huge issue.by diytechshop - General
Only the hotend thermistor needs to be plugged in for the board to run (otherwise it mintemps), the green light flashes only for a moment, the orange lights indicate power for D9-D11 and if you invert the endstop logic in the firmware (or connect the GND and signal pins with a jumper) it will circumvent what vince was talking about.by diytechshop - Reprappers
And remember that all you need to do to flip the axis is flip the plug-in on the motherboard.by diytechshop - General
That is awesome, though if it were me I would try sew-struding onto double sided tape, saves you the trouble of dealing with glue.by diytechshop - General
Your MOSFET is burned out, I used to have this problem all the time when I used sanguinololu boards. Here's the replacement: MOSFETby diytechshop - General
Try using arduino version 0023 any version higher than that won't work with anything sanguino related. Also if you haven't seen it already check out: Sanguino on Macby diytechshop - General
We sell some pretty great i3 variant kits, I personally suggest the i3x for beginners, it's a really simple build and has all the capabilities you could want. Also they are metal and plastic so no humidity/heat warping in the frame.by diytechshop - General
You can do just that in the newer versions of Slic3r.by diytechshop - General
You'll be able to see over time that chunks will be taken out of the small gear from rubbing on the large gear. I would replace it when the chunks are about a millimeter deep.by diytechshop - General
Don't forget that you can also do that with any old graphite pencil too.by diytechshop - Mechanics
My guess would be M9 because that's a common size, but it's impossible to tell without more information about which hotend it actually is.by diytechshop - Mechanics
Check on fastenal, they have just about anything you could want:Fastenal Connectorsby diytechshop - Mechanics
Two more things your can do, if you're using slic3r try adding a brim, you should also give hairspraying your bed a try. I personally use tres-semme super hold mousse applied hot, it works miracles.by diytechshop - Printing
What slicer are you using? I know slic3r will cause this type of problem, try kisslicer and see if it's any better.by diytechshop - Printing
There is such a thing it causes skipped steps, but it looks to me like your extrusion settings are too low, try lowering the filament size in slic3r by .07 and see what happens.by diytechshop - Printing
Also make sure your hotend isn't clogged and the extruder pushes the filament correctly.by diytechshop - Printing
Definitely try printing hotter, around 250C is normal for nylon.by diytechshop - Printing
Try downloading printrun and see if you have the same problem. If that still doesn't work make sure your endstops are functional and plugged in tightly, and that last thing to try is to re-upload the firmware with known working firmware.by diytechshop - Printing
See: this may have some useful information for you.by diytechshop - Printing
It's definitely the slicer, try slicer 7.2b if you want a stable version but other that that most slic3r versions have weird bugs like this.by diytechshop - Printing
Could you post a picture of your extruder? It might help if we can see what exactly you're working with. My first instinct if this is the first time this has happened is that your hotend is clogged, causing the extruder to not be able to push the filament through.by diytechshop - Printing
Firstly check to see if your Y-motor is running hot, if so turn down the power some. Secondly make sure that your Y-axis moves smoothly by hand, any little bump or snag could be causing the problem. Third turn down the extrusion on you G-code it looks like it is extruding way too much filament (this may also cause the problem if the nozzle snags on the print as it tries to go up the layers.by diytechshop - Printing
1. Yes, but rarely and it has to be really tight. 2. That does sound like the more likely cause. 3. If your motor is too hot (you should be able to touch it without burning yourself) you should turn down the power and/or stick a fan on it. I run my printers 24/7 and don't find the heat to be a problem as long as it isn't running too hot.by diytechshop - Printing
Try posting your question here instead:by diytechshop - Printing
Unfortunately the Replicator 2, though finding it's roots in Reprap, is not a Reprap machine. It is closed source so finding solutions to these kind of problems is much more difficult.by diytechshop - Printing
Also make sure that your X axis stepper driver isn't too hot, that will cause skipping steps as well.by diytechshop - Printing
Hi all, wanted you guys to be the first to know we are having a sale on our i3x (prusa i3 variant). $399.99 USD for a limited time only. Come and get one while we have this great deal!by diytechshop - For Sale
Hi all, after a hard first quarter we are finally back on top of things and to celebrate we are offering our i3x and xl for only 425$ and 465$ respectively. Come and get one while they're still hot. ";]by diytechshop - For Sale
I would definitly suggest the i3 over the mendelmax simply because of how simple it is. I've made both and the mendelmax is a pain in the rump for no more reward than the i3, in fact the i3 generally has better prints than the mendelmax. Also if you need to make repairs (and you will) the i3 comes apart in nice sections whereas you have to disassemble almost the entire mendelmax to reach any oneby diytechshop - General