Nichrome would probable work well, but I had a roll of aluminum foil in the kitchen I just wanted to see if i could make a decent, reliable heater for cheap, and it seems to be working out so far. I hooked a PC power supply to it, and right now it's chugging along, and hot enough that I can only hold my hand on it for a few seconds. I'm going to go get a digital thermometer later, and see whaby TheJones - Developers
I'm building a machine with a 12"x12" bed, and had a stoppage in my progress, so I decided to mess around and see if I could make a heater for cheap, out of stuff I already had. I may be reinventing the wheel here, but I didn't see a thread about it when I did a search, do I figured I would post the evenings progress here. My thought was to use a ribbon of aluminum foil, sandwiched between two lby TheJones - Developers
If they can handle 9lbs individually, that means 18lbs combined. Since the actual weight will be 1/3 of that, I think I'll give it a go. Thanks for the help.by TheJones - Developers
Here are the specs on the steppers that will be lifting the Z. Quote200 steps per revolution (1.8 deg/step) 2 Phase, Bipolar, 4 wires Rated Voltage 2V DC Rated Current 1.2A Phase Resistance: 1.7 Ohm ± 10% (20º C) Phase inductance: 4.5 mH ± 20% (1kHz 1 V rms) Holding torque: 0.4 N.m Min. Motor length: 40mm Acme Lead Screw: 350mm long, Tr8x8(P2 Does your math voodoo predict that two of these willby TheJones - Developers
Well, the X-carriage is nice and light, and I'm going to use a Bowden variant to keep the moving mass down. The z axis is the heavy part, because of the roller bearings, and that moves relatively slowly (One tick at a time). I'm not concerned about speed, I'm just worried that the steppers won't be able to lift 5.6lbs/2.5kg reliably.by TheJones - Developers
So, I'm back at work on my RepStrap build (had to pause it for a while because some life stuff pop up). I going with a standard rod-type X axis, but my Z axis is a set of 4 roller bearings on each side, being forced apart and into their tracks by two lengths of threaded rods. Imagine standing in a doorway, with a roller skate in each hand, pressing them out into the door frame. It's kind of likby TheJones - Developers
I was thinking of going with a nema 17 with a lead screw shaft, but the ones I saw have an 8 pitch. Unless my math is wrong, that equates to 2.5 steps for 0.1mm of movment. That just seems crazy considering the fact that I got "meh..." responces when I suggested a 2 pitch (at 10 steps per 0.1mm). The best price I can find for them is $36 each on robotdigg.com(making it $72 for the Z axis). Whichby TheJones - General
I'm working on a repstrap type build, made using the copious amounts of random stuff in my garage. I've got the main part of the frame built, and I am currently sourcing the parts that I can't scavange locally. Which brings me to the linear rods. I was wondering is there would be a benifit to using 10mm rod? That sounds a bit silly, because the obvious benifit would be that it's stronger and leby TheJones - General
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It uses OpenCSG and OpenGL for fast previewing of > models. > > Could it be that you don't have OpenGL support on > your graphic card? My laptop is a bit old, but it has a GeForce Go 6150 in it, so I know it supports OpenGL. But you have given me a good place to start. I'll do a reinstall when I get hoby TheJones - General
Here is a picture of what my screen is doing, if it helps.by TheJones - General
I'm havine an issue with OpenSCAD and I'm pretty sure it's my computer, but I don't know what to do about it. It seems to install as it should, and when I start it up, I can open sample objects and edit them. But when I try to render, it won't display anything. The complie/render runs, the message window doesn't display any errors and it says "rendering finished". But in the 3D model window, Iby TheJones - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It probably needs considerably more torque to turn > it because of both the steeper lead and the bigger > diameter. However is doesn't need to turn as fast > for the same speed and steppers have more torque > at low speeds. I have used smaller lead screws and > not been able to get them to go any faster butby TheJones - Developers
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You would only have half the resolution! I really don't think 3D printing is currently able to print at a level where it would make a difference. one step at 2.0 pitch is .01mm of linear movement. Thats 10X smaller than we are currently able to print with standard machines. A pitch of 1.25 world give you roughly .00by TheJones - Developers
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 1.25 pitch gives 160 steps per mm, not 166.6. My fault, I missed the 5 when punching 1.25 into my calculator. (200 / 1.2 = 1.667) So is there an advantage to using the 8-1.25 instead of something like 16-2.0, other than cost?by TheJones - Developers
So I put some thought into it and came up with the following: 2.00 pitch = 2mm per full revolution 1.8 degree per step = 200 steps per revolution That means at 2.0 pitch you have 100 steps per mm. Compared to 1.25 pitch, which gives 166.6 steps per mm I take that to mean that when printing at .100mm resolution you would have 10 steps per layer Instead of the standard 16. That seems like a siby TheJones - Developers
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. In my mind I was imagining the rods flexing about half way up and making the whole assembly wiggle. Oh well, it was a neat thought while it lasted. What about the pitch? Let's say I'm looking to do a RepStrap type build, and I have some threaded rod, but it larger than what the standard kit calls for. Is a pitch of 2.00 too coarse to be used to drive the Zby TheJones - Developers
This is kind of a two part question. First, has anyone ever tried to make a Z axis with just large diameter threaded rods? What I'm talking about would be similar to a Mendel design, but with no smooth rod/linear bearing, and thicker threaded rods that are captive in bearings on both the top and bottom. Also, how coarse is too coarse for the Z threads? If you were to try this, and the thickerby TheJones - Developers
What about aluminum? I'm new myself. I actually just made my account to ask this question lol. But I've been lurking for a while, doing reseach for a build I'm planning, and I was wodnering the same thing. I tend to make a lot of things from aluminum (mostly because I can do limited machining of it, using my drill press and a small X/Y vise). I've noticed that most hotends seem to be brass, anby TheJones - Plastic Extruder Working Group