It looks like they did some nice design.. but for $100 and all the problems I've read about with various all metal hot ends, I'll wait until it gets some reviews. The E3D has already gotten numerous positive reviews and it's significantly less expensive. That seems like a much safer bet to me.by iquizzle - General
Quoteanwe79 I'm using a 3 mm thick mirror cut to size. Works really well for PLA at 65 degrees (iirc) and ABS at 125 (coated with diluted PVA glue for ABS, no coating needed for PLA). Never had any cracking issues, even with some rough head crashes. There is a hypothesis about the mirror reflecting heat back up from the part itself, but not so sure if there is a real difference compared to plainby iquizzle - General
As far as I can tell, this only affects the way that patents are fought in court in order to discourage litigation from trolls. Perhaps the biggest deterrent in the bill is the ability of the defendant to recover legal fees from the plaintiff if the suit is lost. Also, when the end user of a product considered to be in violation of a patent is being sued, it permits the vendor of the technology tby iquizzle - General
I have been wiping canola oil on my filament for several months primarily to reduce friction in the bowden tube. I can confirm, it works. Canola oil is cheap and has a relatively high smoke point. Used in small amounts, I have not noticed any ill effects on prints. As long as you don't go above the smoke point, I don't believe that it leaves any residues in the hotend either.by iquizzle - General
QuoteShadowRam You're not talking about this stuff? I have it on my repstrap. It's pretty good stuff. Yea that's the stuff I mentioned earlier. The brand name it's usually sold under is called "posi-drive".by iquizzle - General
QuoteRobin2 QuoteTraumflug I mean, I have no doubt this can be done. I just think a dedicated controller is simpler and more reliable. and cheaper. ...R Not always cheaper. I can buy a BBB for $10 less than the cost of the arduino mega that my RAMPS sits on. And for that, I get a system that doesn't require an additional computer to operate AND has ethernet capabilities -- which opens up a huby iquizzle - General
Quotemakeme The point is finding a linear motion transmission system that can work in more than one plane. Belts are great if the axis of all of the bends are parallel, but if they're not, then it doesn't matter how great the belt is because it can't go where it needs to go. After looking at the synchromesh it turns out they don't have an endless loop option, so that won't work. Maybe beaded chby iquizzle - General
I've seen a realtime Xenomai kernel for the pi, but it really lacks in IO. You might be able to multiplex the IO, but it's kind of limited. I also haven't seen any numbers on the kernel jitter to know if it's actually useable.by iquizzle - General
QuoteTraumflug First of all you need excellent realtime capabilities. Standard Linux doesn't provide this and even Realtime-Linux has its limtations. Consumer OSs can barely time videos at 30 pictures/second, a RepRap controller needs to handle more like 50.000 precisely timed events per second. Current RepRap controllers are fine. If you want to enhance them for the user, join them with a seconby iquizzle - General
The posi-drive system should also be more flexible.. but I also think that gt2 is generally the best timing belt technology for 3d printing.by iquizzle - General
I personally like to learn about a good black magic specialist baba while I'm reading about 3d printing.by iquizzle - General
It could still be bad wiring. Try unplugging your extruder heater at the controller and measure the resistance between the wires. If you have an open circuit, then your wiring is bad. If you measure the resistance of your heating resistor, the next step is to check out the controller.by iquizzle - General
Quotethejollygrimreaper maybe we should be approaching them to talk about some sort of coexistence in the future? Afinia is selling closed source, fully built printers. Honestly, it's a pretty far cry from what the average reprap user is using. I don't think there's any reason for all the panic here. If you build a reprap at home, nobody is going to sue you. Patents really only exist to protectby iquizzle - General
Quoteoutput power requirements - masses, speeds, accelerations Unfortunately, a lot of power is going to go into friction and that's not consistent between printers -- nor is it necessarily constant along the linear rod or consistent in time as bearings age, lose lubrication, even between two different LM8UUs due to sloppy manufacturing tolerances, etc. You probably can't operate a printer at tby iquizzle - General
It is quite a bit more work to get running. I spent quite a bit of time over the past two days getting all of the parameters set in KISS. It took 2-3 miserably failed prints and a few hours of messing with settings to get it to work. But it seems to me that the paths are better with KISS. I printed some cable chains with slic3r and some with KISS. The ones printed with slic3r left voids in the prby iquizzle - General
Ouch! Thanks for posting that crispy. I guess I'll keep using old versions... or maybe finally make the switch to something else.by iquizzle - General
If I were buying a new heated bed, I'd go with option 3 as well. NewPerfection is right -- with an SSR, you can drive a lot more power at much lower current straight to an SSR from the wall. Also, you don't need a huge power supply to do it.by iquizzle - General
If you are building a MM 1.5, I think the answer is no. Most of the parts would probably still work, but a few will need to be changed. Off the top of my head, the top vertexes will certainly not work as-is.by iquizzle - General
It sounds like you're looking for an "out of the box" user experience. Make has reviewed a bunch of 3d printers that you don't have to make. (they don't seem embarrassed about that either..) http://makezine.com/magazine/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/3d-printer-overview-how-they-compare/by iquizzle - General
One thing I'd worry about is the pulleys rotating elliptically since the shaft is not centered in them. You could try to shim them with something thin like perhaps aluminum foil. If that doesn't work, go here and buy 4mm bore pulleys: https://sdp-si.com For plastic pulleys, I only see them in sizes up to 16 grooves (part number# A 6L51M016DF0604).. but that should work fine. They make larger onby iquizzle - General
____________ takes gas, water, land, and fertilizer. Fill in the blank with anything renewable. Not really sure what you're looking for...as there are varying degrees of "green". Perhaps you should make a print bed using manna from heaven. The only truly green alternative is to use something that will last forever without producing waste. Printing directly to glass is probably one of the few tby iquizzle - General
It's possible to drive from one side, but you have an increased risk of binding. Basically, the rods can move through the bearing at a slight diagonal -- when you pull up on one side, you apply torque to the other side rather than upward force. You either have to drive in the center of the the smooth rods (so that the radial components of the torque balance) or have a system to drive on both sideby iquizzle - General
It is superior for thermal conductivity/uniformity. There are other factors to consider as well though... like do melted PLA and ABS stick to it. Is it easy to machine a 0.5mm or smaller hole in it? Someone here might have the answer to these. I know it can be difficult to drill pores into brass and its the easiest metal to machine. Copper is a "gummy" metal, so it might put up a fight. On anothby iquizzle - General
I like this idea. It's something I've been kicking around for a while but haven't come up with a good, compact way to do it. I look forward to seeing your design! aduy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > im working on an upgrade for the wades reloaded > that adds a second hobbed bolt, on the opposite > side of the filament, but in a different spot so > thby iquizzle - General
The profit margin has little to do with this. I'll tell you what they're not doing. They aren't running a charity, they're making money. Let's play hypotheticals. Suppose I were an unconscionable person who didn't give a lick about screwing people over. In my kickstarter campaign, I'm free to make whatever dubious claims about my product I want. QuoteBuy my printer. It can print 10 micron layerby iquizzle - General
It should be reported. Kickstarter is not a site for pre-ordering things. Why? Because they have no policy of returns and people who are funded have little responsibilities after they have received the funding. If someone does not feel that they have received the product they supported or it does not meet the claims of the project, there is no liability on the part of the campaigners. I have noby iquizzle - General
Don't get me wrong -- I'm not losing any sleep over it. I got 10 hours last night. If people want to make bad purchases, that's their privilege. But when people use kickstarter to solicit free attention/advertising for their product it's already a false pretense. If it ends up here on the reprap forums and someone wants feedback from reprap users -- well as a reprap user and builder, when it's inby iquizzle - General
How about an Ultimaker?by iquizzle - General
Ah the myth of the charitable KS campaign. The legends are false. Do not believe it is so. Quoteyou get what you pay for Actually, since KS is (in it's own words) NOT A PREORDER SITE, you don't always get what you pay for. But don't worry, if it doesn't print 50 microns you can always return it right? Oh, that's right... once you give them your money, they don't have a whole lot of obligationsby iquizzle - General
I don't trust their engineering skills. Besides, they're running a scampaign. What's a scampaign you ask? I've said it before and I'll post it again Quotethe formula to a successful scampaign is quite simple. Forget about ideas and development. That stuff matters very little. Start with a price. For instance, if you can build a reprap for $500-600 dollars from shops online, your kickstarter shouby iquizzle - General