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Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
@Mogal I think that would probably work. As long as the cardboard was thick enough to prevent lifting at the corners. I know that with paper, even if it was held at the corners, the corners of the part would still lift the paper up at those spots. Anyways, the chip has arrived in the mail, so I am going to pick it up tomorrow and hopefully get printing again by wednesday.by galaxyman7 - General
Re: Will the 3d printer ever be a household product? - 12 years ago
I think 3d printers are really not for the consumer. Yes they can design and print things at home, possibly with a simple "customizing" program. But why would they buy one if all they want to make is a few trinkets? They could easily order one from a 3-d printing company at a much lower cost. And since 3-d printers are coming down in price, the competition for companies that do 3d printing is onby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
Extent is right, the warping force is too large for the adhesive backing on the tape. It sticks great to the tape, but the tape can't stick to the bed that well. @Dark Luckily my dad is an electronics engineer . He's got all of the equipment to do that stuff at work. Strangely the rest of the board and the chip works except that one pin. A faulty product perhaps? I don't really understand how 5vby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
@nophead They are saying that because cardboard absorbs water, it also "absorbs" the molten Nylon. Therefore if we can find a material that acts like cardboard, in that it will "absorb" the nylon, it will hopefully stick to that too. The thing is Nylon does stick to blue tape, but the warping force is too strong for the tape to hold it down. That has a waxy backing, so maybe if we could find a mby galaxyman7 - General
Printrbot temp reading stuck at 157 - 12 years ago
Hi I am having a problem with the temperature reading for the hotend on the Printrbot. The printrbot uses a derivative of the Teensylu board. I disconnected the hotend wires from the board, then I used pronterface to read the temperature, and it said it was 157 C. I connected the hotend, which was totally cold, and it gave me close to the same reading. This just started happening today. I have beby galaxyman7 - Controllers
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
Ok I uploaded a video of my setup and some of my printed parts. As you can see, the parts are very flexible, and are very high quality with hardly any blobbing or stringing. @patbob I have tried paper, and it is just too flexible to use. If I could get cardboard with a clay backing, I would try that. @Dark It is corrugated cardboard. It makes the bottom layer a bit bumpy, but nothing too noby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
I just printed the best quality I have ever printed with Nylon . The part was as long as my bed and the cardboard still held it down easily. Only problem is the cardboard stuff is stuck all over the back of the part, so I am soaking it in water to try and get it to come off. If you guys have any other tips to get the paper off, that would be appreciated. Anyways, the cardboard worked like a chby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
@ifala I extrude at 245 C, which is the limit for my PEEK insulator. My bed temperature is 120 C. @nophead I have tried that, and I ended up welding a part right to the bed. It was very hard to get it at a height where the Nylon would stick the right amount. I tried printing on cardboard, and that worked quite well. I tested a long skinny piece and saw no warping at all. I am not sure how longby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
Ok, so I have some weird results. I measured the trimmer line, and it was 2.65 mm consistently. However, when I extrude it, I have to use an extrusion ratio of 0.5 or the part is way too overfilled. I don't know if this is a glitch in slic3r or pronterface or if Nylon just expands a lot. Anyways, with the ratio set at 0.5 it is printing very high quality with no stringing. I still need to findby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
Ok I tried soaking the filament in water, and that pretty much came out like expected, a total mess. The print was super inconsistent and weak. I dried the filament for another hour and that seemed to make it work much better. I also stored it in a bag with some dessicant you can get for keeping closets dry and I think that is helping too. Now I am getting perfectly smooth prints with no defectby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
Ok I have the retract at 7 mm, and it seems to print quite well. There are still small strings, but those can be burnt off with a lighter or cut off. I turned the bed temperature up to the max my bed could handle, 120 C, and that reduced warping quite a bit. I also added the brim plus the magnets ect. I did find out something interesting while printing with the stuff. If you have even a small aby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Printing faster with finer layers - 12 years ago
@VDX That's a very interesting idea. I wonder if I could somehow source a laser off of ebay. I wonder how much of a difference it would make though, and what kind of surface defects might result. @Lodo I know that increasing hotend temperature increases bonding, but I can't get bring my hotend over 250 C due to the PEEK insulator. Therefore I am looking for a solution that will heat the layer beby galaxyman7 - General
Printing faster with finer layers - 12 years ago
I am printing with Nylon trimmer line, and so I need the layers to be printed on top of eachother as quickly as possible, to reduce cooling between layers. This way I can completely bond the layers without need for a heated chamber. Right now the limiting factor on print speed is the grip on the filament. I am assuming that since smaller layers require less extrusion, you could print them faster?by galaxyman7 - General
Re: secret to drilling 0.35mm nozzle hole - 12 years ago
Actually you might want to consider cold rolling the nozzle. What you do is start with a bigger hole, then squeeze the metal around a thin wire that is the diameter needed. This instructable outlines how to do it:by galaxyman7 - General
Re: adding another heated bed - 12 years ago
I think I will just make a heated chamber. It will make the bed hotter due to less heat loss, and it will help with layer adhesion. Hopefully the chamber is enough to get the temperature up from 130 C to 150 C.by galaxyman7 - General
Re: adding another heated bed - 12 years ago
Ok sorry for the bad quality but here are some pics of a lid I printed. The last pic is of the bottom of the lid. Edit: What do you think about these: Do you think it will get me up to 150 C with both heaters? And how should I power them?by galaxyman7 - General
Re: adding another heated bed - 12 years ago
@arch I think I will do that in addition to buying a small heating pad. This way the bed can warm up quicker. @Lod Brand of line: Slic3r settings: layer height 0.4 skirt loops 15 at distance of 0.4 (a brim) 2 perimeters 0.4 fill density retraction length 10 mm lift z 0 mm speed of retraction- maximum possible (i think around 900 mm/s) extra length on restart: 0.5 mm cooling: slow down if lby galaxyman7 - General
Re: adding another heated bed - 12 years ago
Well I just tried setting my heated bed to 130 C, and it actually did get there eventually. It probably took around 15 min. It definetlely helps a ton with warping. I printed a 3 inch long piece with a small amount of warp, where as with the 100 C bed the part would be unusable. I think adding a small heater pad to the bottom of the board wil do a lot of good by boosting the max temperature of thby galaxyman7 - General
adding another heated bed - 12 years ago
Ok, so I have a printrbot, and I am printing with weed trimmer line, which needs a bed temperature of around 150 C so it doesn't warp. My current heated bed, which is a pcb, can only reach around 110 C. Do you think it would be ok to add another bed underneath it, powered seperately? Basically this one would be manual control, with a separate power supply, and the fine tuning would be done by theby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
Well I found a solution to the warping . What I did is put a square of sheet metal over my heated bed, then I used the "brim" setting in slic3r with 15 loops. I then placed small magnets all around the "brim" after the first layer finished. This keeps the part nice and flat, with no warping evident, even with large parts . Now I just need to work out the oozing problem. On long travels, the oozby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
The msds for hydrogen cyanide says that it produces throat and eye irritation. So first of all, if I experience those symptoms I will definetly be more careful, and second, it is only toxic in very large doses, like when firefighters go into a burning building. I am not saying it's not bad stuff, just that you are not likely to be affected by it in such small doses, and there are plenty of warninby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
On the contrary, here is the MSDS sheet for Nylon. It states that thermal decomposition occurs at >300 Cby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Extruding Nylon - 12 years ago
@idol You can get some very cheap at your local hardware store. The equivalent size is 0.105 in, which is pretty common. If you want bulk, go to I just got a roll and I am trying to get it to stop warping myself. I think I will need to print with a brim on perfboard. That might be enough to hold it down. Either that or I print on a sheet of Nylon, but I think that will weld right to it. Maybeby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Warping issues with Nylon - 12 years ago
Ehhh, I tried the mesh again and this time it unstuck from the mesh. I think I will have to make a heated chamber. It seems like 150 C should do the trick.by galaxyman7 - General
Re: Warping issues with Nylon - 12 years ago
I used the mesh screen, and that works pretty well, except I can't get it to lay perfectly flat on the bed. I think i will make a custom bed that is nice and thick with a lot of small holes like perfboard. I have a cnc machine that can do the holes. Also, I might be able to somehow glue the mesh down. I will see.by galaxyman7 - General
Re: What size filament can we go down to? - 12 years ago
The quality is very good if you dry the filament. Then you won't get any bubbles in the print. I have printed using 0.1 mm layers and it came out great. If you don't dry it, it will create a foamy molten plastic that expands alot, which is fine if you don't care what the part looks like. You will have to turn down the extrusion ratio so it doesn't overfill. The only thing that annoys me is theby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Warping issues with Nylon - 12 years ago
I am not rafting currently, but if I want a smooth bottom on perfboard I might have to. The window screen idea is interesting. Maybe I will glue a piece of it to some sheet metal or glass and give that a go. Hopefully the bottom of the part wont be too deformed. As for the kapton tape, I fear it will still not be able to resist the force of warping, similar to the blue tape. The problem is not thby galaxyman7 - General
Re: Warping issues with Nylon - 12 years ago
Just looked it up and the nozzle has 1/4-20 inner threads.by galaxyman7 - General
Warping issues with Nylon - 12 years ago
Hey guys, I just wanted to see if anyone had any tips for reducing warping. I am printing with weed trimmer line, and the stuff really likes to warp alot. So much that it actually peels the blue tape off of my bed. Therefore the brim will only help it stick to the tape. I am printing the stuff with my Printrbot at 230 C on a 100 C bed. I have seen the posts on using perf board to hold parts downby galaxyman7 - General
Re: What size filament can we go down to? - 12 years ago
Ya it is interesting because the "other components" seem to give it a lower melting point. By the way, I have extruded probably around 10 m of the stuff and it hasn't harmed my extruder at all.by galaxyman7 - General