Nope. That isn't a very good idea. I think you're just not going to be able to put parts at the edge of the build plate in your slicer software.by solomondg - Smart_Rap
I hated the extruder (not much force, could never get the filament through the nut), so I just swapped it out with an Airtripper BSP. Never looked back!by solomondg - Smart_Rap
Nope! Almost no reason to use .9° ones unless you're gearing them up something crazy.by solomondg - General
Pretty cool! Looks like it's using a version of the Bipolar Coordinate System. You might wanna make a Gcode preprocessor. This looks like a good source.by solomondg - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Yup! Pretty easy. I'd recommend just reconfiguring Marlin (the firmware) from scratch so that you can use the latest version. It has full support for the Melzi electronics.by solomondg - Smart_Rap
Don't see anything wrong in your config.h file. First, get a multimeter. Change the mode to 'Continuity tester', preferably with the buzzer/beeper on. You have to press the 'mode' button on my multimeter to turn on the buzzer. If your multimeter doesn't have it, you can just tape a lead of a LED to that of the opposite battery polarity. Disconnect the endstop from the board, then connect the leadby solomondg - Printing
You have to set the z-offset in the marlin configuration.h You have to use G28 before G29by solomondg - Smart_Rap
Just a thought — it might be better to use a Gcode preprocessor instead. Just modify the coordinates depending on the Z-height.by solomondg - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I'm gonna be completely honest: building a stock Prusa i3 is kinda a nightmare. I went for the Box Frame variant. It took me months, and I ended up with the wrong extruder, no method to level the bed, and a Y-Axis length of 100mm. I've since fixed it, and it's printing beautifully, but it was a pain. The number one kit that I'd recommend would be the Prusa i3v kit from Makerfarm. There's differenby solomondg - General
So, first of all. To implement the code in the slicer software, you have to edit the start gcode file in your slicing program. For Slic3r, the start gcode will look something like this G21; set mm units G92 E0; reset extruder distance G90; set absolute coordinates G28; home all axes G1 Z5; lower platform 5mm to clear bed in case of improper leveling G1 X100 Y100 F3000; move extruder over bedby solomondg - General
No problem!by solomondg - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I think I can print them in PLA, if that's okay.by solomondg - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I've had a good experience with this model: i3 Auto Leveling. Not sure about shipping, but I can print it for around $10.by solomondg - Wanted
This did happen to me when I first started auto-leveling. My fix was to simply change my z axis max feedrate from 5 or so to 2.by solomondg - Firmware - mainstream and related support
This looks like a passable kit, but I would not recommend buying it. It uses ACME leadscrews, which are less accurate than normal threaded rods. The extruder looks somewhat sketchy, with what appears to be an older hotend design (that the 3D printer community moved away from for a reason). They're also using what appears to be a custom i3 design, which I don't like, as it might make upgrading harby solomondg - General
What type of hotend are you using, and more importantly, where did you get it? I got a cheapo $30 j-head off eBay as a backup hot end, and when my current one clogged (it's sort of a lost cause), I tried using the cheap one, but it barely extruded. I paid an extra $30 for a genuine J-Head Mk IV-BV from hotends.com (which is owned by the maker of the J-Head, and it is working great.by solomondg - Reprappers
It looks like your Z feedrate might be too high. Try lowering your Z max feedrate to 3 (mm/s). I had the exact same problem as you, and just lowering the feedrate (and as such the speed) fixed it.by solomondg - Reprappers
Marlin firmware, pronterface host, cura slicer. That setup works great for me.by solomondg - General
Try running it through netfabb web (https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net). That should fix it!by solomondg - Reprappers
I think you have the z endstop too low. Try raising the z homing point so that the extrusion is squished, but the nozzle isn't touching the bed (.05-.1 mm gap).by solomondg - Printing
I'm using a .4mm J-Head on an i3, and here are the settings that work well for me: .3mm Layer Height Honeycomb infill @ 10-20% 60mm/s infill 20-30mm/s perimeter 195 °C print temp 70 °C bed temp No supports (kinda a pain) And around .6mm extrusion width (but I just let Slic3r auto set the value) Hope that helps!by solomondg - Printing
Hello, I've built a Prusa Mendel i3, using Marlin, and all is going well, but I'd like to upgrade it with a dual extruder so I can use support material or dual colors. I was doing some research, and I found a neat hybrid extruder on . I know that Marlin supports dual extruders, but I can't figure out how to use a different steps per mm value for each of the extruders (I'm planning on using a direby solomondg - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hello. I recently downloaded a newer version of Marlin onto my Prusa i3 (Box frame, if it matters). I'm using the ingenious system from for the leveling endstop. I set everything up, and inverted the Z endstop in Marlin, set offset, etc. I downloaded it onto my printer, but whenever I try to auto-level, the z motors sort of twitch and make a grinding noise. This noise is the same one that happenby solomondg - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Wow! Amazing prints! I'd love to see the campaign when it comes out!by solomondg - Look what I made!
So, I'd like to get a 3D printer, preferably a RepRap. I'd like to know which RepRap is the cheapest to assemble (independently sourcing the parts-not a kit). If the wiki page is correct (and if I read it correctly), then the Prusa Mendel i3 only costs $137.50 plus the cost of the printed parts. This doesn't seem very realistic, and I was wondering if anyone who has built one can give input on tby solomondg - General