Awesome work you might improve the finish of your walls by taking the slack out of the chains in your axes... depends how much stress your framework can take thoughby T0mmm - General
Quotefoshon Why? Don't the majority of today's hot ends only utilize one? Is there a firmware available that utilizes two? Marlin, I believe a second 'redundant' thermistor is being implemented? if not i'm planning on having my own separate temperature trip i just don't trust one thermistor!by T0mmm - General
Hello, I've got a hotend for that machine, the original. I've pulled the red silicone and the kapton heater off it though.. you can have it for price of postage if you really want, but I just fitted a gregs universal extruder onto mine, and a J-head nozzle, which works a treat! the nozzle height is similar too you've probably seen my genisys retrofit, but heres the link anyway I used a 3Draby T0mmm - General
So can i sue my mother for feeding me sprouts?? sprouts are more toxic than plastic... and she force feeds me them. I would rather eat plastic.by T0mmm - General
haha why not?! a microwave might be a nice enclosure, one of the older ones which you could probably live inside (huge!) PING! oh, the bowl is finished printing... it may even print you some noodles. or even an old projector TV. oven? fridge?! the possibilities are endless really, as long as you don't mind the whee-wheee-wheeeing of the stepper motors for hours on end. Or the smelly / "deadby T0mmm - General
Just curious, why do you need an equivalent mosfet? there are lots of STP55NF06 on eBay, Mouser, etc. cheap too... What are you using the MOSFET for? if it's for a DC heated bed (below 60V!) I've used a P30N06LE (60v,30A N-channel) which has worked very well for me. Cheers, Tomby T0mmm - General
I may be interested if there is a provision for a second thermistor in later versionsby T0mmm - General
Quotekarabas Beer on hot glass(110-120C ) works much better. Beer! it's a sin to waste beer!by T0mmm - General
"No".......... put them wherever you want, it's how the firmware is setup that matters My endstops are Xmax, Ymin and Zmaxby T0mmm - General
I recently designed and made a Lucet - a 'weaving' tool that will turn string into very nice cord. It's really easy to use, look on youtube for instruction videos The part feels really good quality, maybe a bit on the large size.. if i were to print another i'd scale it to maybe 80%. I designed this in Inventor 2013, the files are on if you want them!by T0mmm - Look what I made!
I'm using slic3r, the 1.0.0RC1 version, on windows XP. your firmware might be limiting your speed, you might want to check the max speed settings for your axes in your firmwareby T0mmm - General
QuoteAntslake I was getting bonding issues before at those temps. Most of the time I was printing abs at 245. How is the bonding between layers for you? At what speed? bonding is really good for me - I recently printed out a single wall vase and am now using is as a pencil pot for marker pens, which proves it's nice and strong. I tend to print slowly.. i'm not hugely experienced so haven't goneby T0mmm - General
Hello! Have you calibrated your extruder yet? This is when we check how much filament is pulled into the extruder. for example if i ask for 20mm to be extruded, the machine should pull in exactly 20mm of filament. You can adjust this by altering the 'E steps per millimetre' setting in your firmware... If you have already done this, try increasing the retraction (from 1mm to maybe 2 or 3 mm) anby T0mmm - General
I use repetier / slic3r; this error message can happen due to a number of reasons despite having the same error text. Some of the ones i've found out myself are: Layer height is higher than the nozzle diameter the footprint (including the brim / perimeter!) is outside of the print area object is too tall You haven't got the printer dimensions set up properly in repetier or slic3r The object isnby T0mmm - General
That's a lovely looking print! I got blobs on my prints until I dropped my nozzle temperature from 230 to 215 - they don't happen as often now, maybe two or three on a large printby T0mmm - General
Those results are to dye for! niceby T0mmm - Look what I made!
Maybe try adjusting the acceleration times of your X axis so that it take a bit longer to accelerate? or perhaps when both the X and Y axis motors are drawing current, they cause the motor to skip. I'd try adjusting the acceleration first though my printer had a similar problem, the axes would 'bang' to a stop, so I smoothed it out by slowing down the accelerationby T0mmm - General
I get this problem too with Repetier, but only when I've left my WIFI card plugged in (mine is an old-school PCMCIA card). When it's unplugged it's very reliable. leave it plugged in and it is almost guaranteed to stop for no real reason. it's something for you to try at least.. it solves my problem but you may have some other issueby T0mmm - Repetier
Hello, have you seen Thingiverse.com? I recently printed off these planetary gears , they are quite simple to do because they don't have any overhangs and are easy shapes! Surprising how addictive they are to keep twiddling round and round.... mine were a bit on the stiff side, so i just loosened them up with a quick spin from a battery screwdriver. I think things that move have more 'wow' faby T0mmm - General
Haven't you already asked this question?by T0mmm - General
in repetier-host you can change the EEPROM settings including the steps per mm direct from the computer screen there's no need to bother re-uploading firmware etc. I *think* the shortcut is ctrl+e, but it's very easy to find from the dropdown menus at the top of the screen. I changed my steps per mm this wayby T0mmm - General
are you sure it's thyristors you're interested in? thyristors are for switching AC voltages. You may want to use a MOSFET - these can switch DC. I recently used a N-channel MOSFET, a P30N06LE worked well for me... these can handle 30 amps at 60 volts with a proper heatsink! They only drop 1 volt across the source/drain which is quite nice. Have a look on google for simple MOSFET circuits! therby T0mmm - General
So thats about 600grams for ABS, at ~£22 per kilo for ABS filament it works out at about £13 material cost per bladeby T0mmm - General
could you put a section of your blade on here / thingiverse so one of us can try to print it? It sounds like quite a large item to print, in terms of time required and also material required - what will the density of the part be? (i.e completely solid, or just a hollow shell) my printbed area is 340mm wide * 205 deep * 205 tall so i may be able to squeeze something in... However I'm still a bby T0mmm - General
Quotesage19175 I figured it out i had a fan on the whole thing that was cooling the fan down faster than it could heat up! Thanks for the help Sage i had that problem too - I bought some high temperature silicone and stuck it to my nozzle to act as an insulator. I'm sure there are more elegant methods of insulating a hotend nozzle, but chrome don't get you home!by T0mmm - General
Just wondering what are the 'best' attributes to look for, in a computer who's main job will be slicing objects using Slic3r. For example, is it better to have multiple cores that are slower, or a single very fast processor? what sort/amount of RAM should I be looking for? is bigger RAM more favourable than having a fast processor? 64 bit compared to 32 bit...? would a SSD hard drive improveby T0mmm - Slic3r
well I got it to actually print something last night! I printed A Snowflake on Thingiverse My heated bed is now covered with 200mm wide kapton tape. This stuff is fiddly to fit when there's only one person to peel it off the roll, cut it AND get it into the printer/ aligned to the bed! I didn't get it quite right first time but this will do for now: I noticed that the extruder was retracby T0mmm - General
hello, does this help? I found it in the discussion bit on Github I *think* the second pin is called TEMP_2 in the pins.h file of your firmware folder... it will probably be -1 at the moment (disabled).by T0mmm - General
as a side note... you may get more help on the Arduino forum, as reprap is mainly for 3D printers i guessby T0mmm - General
I'd rather keep it on a public thread where more knowledgeable people can chip in, I'm certainly not the most experienced one here! I've only been fiddling with 3D printers for about 5 weeks I've learnt nearly everything I know so far from the RepRap wiki, wikipedia, stepperworld.com , and this forum of course. Google is your best friend! to start off with I'd get an arduino uno (cheap if youby T0mmm - General