well the heated bed is now nice and level (used a piece of paper to feel the distance between the nozzle and the heated bed). adjustment on this is done by adjusting the tension on the two vertical belts.. there is no other adjustment as the machine's frame is so solidly built. each belt has a cap screw with locking nut to adjust the tension. I'm having so much trouble getting the ABS to stick tby T0mmm - General
to be honest i'm not sure, personally i would. I don't know why its setting the positioning from absolute to relative, and then back to absolute though good luck!by T0mmm - General
I see what you mean, with 3D printers the motors are given a setting in the firmware (software loaded on to the stepper motor control board) called steps per mm. this is quite explanatory; say the motor needs to move 40 steps to make the moving assembly travel 1mm. for your project you could tweak this a bit and use it as 'steps per white key'. that way you can accomodate for organs with fat kby T0mmm - General
Hello, I had this problem recently using Repetier host and slic3r. The solution that worked for me was to remove the G28 command (homes the axes before the start of the print) You'll find this in slic3r on the print settings tab, in the 'Start G-Code' box. I just commented it out by putting a semicolon at the start of the line. i.e G28 ; home all axes becomes ;G28 ; home all axes you canby T0mmm - General
Hi all, Seeing as though I wasn't impressed with my heated bed warmup time, I decided to make a MOSFET switch, using a P30N06LE N-channel mosfet that I scavenged from the scrap circuit boards of the printer. seeing as though my heatbed is 36V, and my 3Drag board is running on 12V I thought that a separate MOSFET was the way to go I've used a 7805bt voltage regulator to convert the 12V signal fby T0mmm - General
Quotemcca21 I am looking to make an automated pipe organ key holder with optic location so it knows where its at on the keyboard. Can anyone help? does it have to be optical? if you were to 'copy' what's done on a typical 3D printer (for example) you could have an endstop switch at one end of the set of keys, which will then tell the controller where the axis is located. when the axis hits thiby T0mmm - General
the squares etc could be caused by electrical noise picked up from nearby stepper motor wiring or the power leads. try to separate the signal wires to your LCD screen from the stepper wires, or consider using screened cable to the LCD. Also keep the wire lengths as short as practicableby T0mmm - General
The boards you mentioned could be programmed to work, but good luck doing that! The boards that Cozmicray mentioned have been more or less designed especially for 3D printers, and have an awful lot of help/ support with them too (search for reprap wiki). I've got a 3Drag controller, but if i could go back in time I would probably have gone for a RAMPS board, or maybe a RUMBA. my 3Drag boardby T0mmm - General
Hello, I've got the same extruder and hotend my hotend just fitted into the hole of the extruder, and is held in with two split pins. the diameter of the 'holding' holes on my extruder body is about 1.5 - 2mm, hence the use of the pins. this holds the hotend in very snug. As for the resistor being tight in the nozzle, mine is the exact opposite! there's probably 0.5mm gap around the resistor.by T0mmm - General
well i've finally got it printing! initially had a problem with repetier-host / slicer making the coordinates all messed up after it had finished slicing and started to print the job. it would try and center the print around 0,0 and as a result, print a quarter of the object.. no matter where i placed it in the preview screen! I've overcome this problem by not letting slic3r home the axes beforby T0mmm - General
Well, good news is that my updated arduino pin trick works perfectly! The unit now homes and parks properly I had a go at printing, but initially had problems getting the bed past 26C (its a 30volt bed which I had running on 12v) but I've sorted that by using the old 30v supply and a relay, and the temperature now goes right up. I'll put an SSR in there soon but this will do for now I blockedby T0mmm - General
Hello, Are you using marlin firmware? If so: open your firmware in the arduino environment, on the configuration.h tab, line 163 is #define BED_MAXTEMP 150 where 150 is your maximum bed temp in degrees.... maybe this is set to a lower number? or your thermistor is reading incorrectly? just below that line is: // If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duby T0mmm - General
Hello Felipe, That looks like a lovely kit, I don't have a great deal of 3D printer experience, BUT i'm also interested in 4x4's: i've got a 1961 Land Rover series 2 that I recently fitted a modern 300TDi engine into So really I'm just saying hello! oh and here's my other pride and joyby T0mmm - General
jzatopa Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There is a setting in the config.h to keep your > steppers on even when they are not in use. It > sounds like that needs to be adjusted on your Z. > When you home your axis to they move towards the > side with the endstops? If so are you sure you > don't have your endstops connected to the max > insteby T0mmm - General
eBay shop for jtrading2013 , I bought some 1.75mm ABS filament which works out as £21 per kilo delivered... a whole 50p saving!! that's like a whole bag of crisps* of course, quality/good tolerances are probably worth an extra few quid if the seller has a good reputation Tom *in 1997by T0mmm - General
Hello, I think i'm lucky in that there's a built in gap between the chamber of my unit and where the electronics sit, so I think i'm ok there. I ran my machine for a few hours last night and yes my extruder motor gets warm, I'll have a scavenge in the electrical bin for some fans to blow on it, or try turning the current down.. after all it doesn't do that much pushing really. T he X and Y motby T0mmm - General
Thanks for that, yeah I'm using Marlin, i think it's really good! I thought i was clever with what I do with my Arduino but wow i'm very impressed. I'll double check that they're inverted, i'm quite sure they are but i will have a look tonight. I had another go at making them work last night to no avail They are definitely wired correctly, as in they are functioning at the plug end where it goby T0mmm - General
Ok thanks, I suppose that this is the wrong place to be asking as the reprap style printers are mostly open frame and I'm cheating with a commercial one I haven't had it printing yet, that should happen this week when my first roll of filament arrives Tomby T0mmm - General
read the reprap wiki, it has LOTS of information... it got me from knowing next to nothing, to having a moving 3d printer in about 3 weeks, so i can definitely vouch for it!by T0mmm - General
Im quite sure you can buy them, they're call a "strap on boss" or a "soil strap on boss" (oo err!) here in the UK at least! googled strap on boss you'll also need a soil boss adaptor, basiacally a rubber doughnut that seals the pipe in I used to work in a builders merchants, and dad was a builderby T0mmm - General
After a lot of site searching and googling, I can't find a good answer regarding ambient air temperatures for different materials... my printer is enclosed in a cabinet: with the heat bed, extruder, PSU and motors all giving off heat, it's going to warm up in there! At the top of the cabinet is an extractor fan which i'd like to use with a thermostat/ OSPID to control the ambient temperature.by T0mmm - General
I'm down in swansea, and am about to start printing stuff off in about a fortnight... I could practice by printing some simple parts for you? my printer can handle ABS because i bought the relevant heatproof parts! please bear in mind that i've never 3d printed anything before though! so I'm bound to print 3 miles of spaghetti or just blobs to begin with. Im sorry you had your stuff stolen Toby T0mmm - General
hello everyone! it's been a while since I updated this, but here's the latest progress: the axes, hotend and extruder are now working: Short Youtube video. I can't find conclusive proof that my 3Drag controller will be ok with 36 volts going into it, so i'm using the old 'AT' power supply that powered the old computer inside it. it seems to have more than enough power to run the head, axes andby T0mmm - General
OK, after a bit of research i don't think it's possible to run the two LMD18200's from just one signal/direction signal from the 3Drag board... so I'll go down the Pololu route which will just plug into my board... laziness but it will get me up and running more quickly my decision comes after reading this tutorial on stepperworld Limit switches / extruder next!by T0mmm - General
Hello everyone, my name's Tom and I've just been very lucky in getting a Stratasys 'Genesis XS' from the electrical waste area of where I work I'm a bit of a tinkerer with Arduino, and am quite comfortable with programming them etc now, so this should help me with this new area of 3D printing! Here's the printer.. its big and quite heavy! I've seen a similar topic on this very forum discussinby T0mmm - General