did you use the old working configuration.h or de default one?by Frans@France - General
Quoteonearmpilot Thanks Frans@France that looks interesting FYI : powerlolu ordering:by Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
Interesting discussion but maybe mentioning your max. volumetric flow rate you want to achieve might help in thinking about solutions? I'm sure that that together with the plastic used (it's MFR maybe?) it would be possible to calculate the pressure the extruder has to achieve? It might be that that pressure can not be achieved and a auger based extruder might be a beter idea.... Just my two unby Frans@France - General
If I read the errors correct, message ("not in sync" and "timeout") is because of the baud rate of 250000. So I would try the 115200 like proposed.by Frans@France - General
Maybe Powerlolu could be an option? QuoteHigh Power Pololu Board (Powerlolu) based on A4989 - can be connected to RAMPS Pololu port. Powerlolu can drive stepper motors up to 500 Watts, drawing currents up to 10 Amps.by Frans@France - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteReplaceEn die timelaps op dat doorgezaagde prototype? Die bizarre op/neer beweging met een oval vorm die eigenlijk een bal moest worden en waarbij resin wordt gebruikt die wel cured van het licht van je mobile maar niet van het licht van buiten? Die? QuoteReplaceHet CLIP procede is al vaker succesvol geimplementeerd, alleen groter en duurder... Wat vindt je van deze poging usd 130 zonby Frans@France - Algemeen
QuoteReplace.. dan vraag ik mijn geld terug bij American Express ben benieuwd of dat gaat lukken als ze pas na 12 maanden melden het alsnog niet te kunnen leveren vanwege bepaalde "onverwachte" problemen...Ik zie niets in/aan het project wat er ook maar op lijkt dat het in staat zal zijn een normale print te maken.by Frans@France - Algemeen
Eigenlijk met PLA nooit last van gehad, maar ik print PLA rond de 180Cby Frans@France - Algemeen
QuoteGaouwhat are you getting Frans on urs Frans ? I'm stuck at +/- 0.1mm (high/low not std. dev.) at the moment but that's for an extruder speed around 9,000mm/min for 1.75mm. Searching for improvements for some time now before increasing extruder speed any further.by Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteGaouwhat ? is it true ? i want the filament to get to 0.005-0.01 difference . Then you would be close to the stratasys usd200,- filament specs and no the standard usd 20,- rolls looking forward to your objectives for the roundnessby Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteGaouNo it isn't . i am getting at this moment with current setup from 1.68mm-1.76mm But +/-0.04mm is well within professional filament specs......Do you want better results?by Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteGaou QuoteFrans@France The lyman uses a 4.5mm nozzle. i didn't knew that. what diameter the filastruder use ? and if you don't mind asking what do you use? when i started i started with 1.2 going up to 1.5 that i drilled today. in the past i even used 1.35 1.25 1.45. but i saw that this is not so important as it changes as the temp change . . Filastruder is using 1.58mm (source:) I staby Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteGaoui had it closer to the floor and then i raise it up a bit. it didn't help . also i had 1.35 hole and then i went to 1.7. that didn't help either. the filastruder forum doesn't have diy builts ( or at least i didn't found any ) buy only the the filastruder extruders. Nothing about the filastruder that can not be used for your own extruder when using the same gravity based width control teby Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Just move your extruder to a higher position or make a smaller nozzle would help in getting the correct diameter. Lots of info to be found on the filastruder forum about thisby Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Well done! What was the total cost to get this far?by Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Love the design! Looking forward reading about your progressby Frans@France - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Volgens mij heb je nogal wat verschillende instellingen aangepast, ik heb werkelijk geen idee wat de gevolgen zijn van al deze aanpassingen tegelijkertijd. Waarom niet alles op default laten staan en alleen bed size, snelheid en nozzle aanpassen en vanaf die waardes bepalen wat er gebeurt en daar dan de verdere tuning voor doen? Als ik namelijk net zo'n onderkant zou hebben op mijn printer met mby Frans@France - Algemeen
QuoteDjDemonD I thought about doing this with an i3 and decided against it as there would have to be a lot of cut-outs for the various things that have to go in and out of the chamber. I have done it and only two holes are needed, one for alle the electronics and another for the filament. The electronics are outside the chamber. The chamber is build manly from plexi and heats up from the headbby Frans@France - General
QuotetoxuinI haven't seen any accessible filament width sensors. Some only measure that you haven't run out of filament and some require a laser sensor that ain't so easy to obtain (neither it is cheap). By accessible I mean that one can either buy for <= 20$ shipped or build at home with basic tools (no multi-layered boards and BGA components!)by Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
There is already a compensation routine in Marlin that takes the readings from a sensor. Saving the data from one roll in a file and then use that file is not going to work because you have no idea what is left on the roll. As soon as you have removed a part you must store that info somewhere and then (re)set that info in combination with the file. Therefor a "live" sensor is a better idea imhoby Frans@France - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Are you sure it's pushed up? looks more like being pushed out? Bit hard to see on the foto.by Frans@France - Printing
check the filament for issues with it's thickness\widthby Frans@France - Printing
There is no new screenshot in your messageby Frans@France - General
I see no error in the error.jpg, only a message that the SD card is not present.by Frans@France - General
Quotesteve1040when I press Y-home the bed moves to the rear, when it hits the endstop the bed taps the endstop a couple of times and stops <<< Is this the expected behavior? Yes, it will change speed between tries, that allows to beter find the endstop positionby Frans@France - Reprappers
Ja, filament kan echt heel slecht zijn, mijn ervaring is dat de meeste vastlopers van de hotend meestal komt omdat een klein stukje filament net te dik is voor de hotend. Aangezien de printer software continue een bepaalt volume wilt printen heeft een verandering van dikte direct gevolg voor de totale hoeveelheid plastic die uit de hotend komt. Als je filament dikker is dan dat je instelt dan kriby Frans@France - Algemeen
popping noise = almost always moisture in the filament. Try drying it. jamming = filament out of spec and/or too much retracting and/or fan to cool hotend not running and/or wrong assembly of the hotend etc...You get much beter replies when posting a bit more about the hotend etc A nice guide to help you with those first printsby Frans@France - Mechanics
foto is te klein om er iets over te zeggen, maar je beschrijving lijkt op onder extrusion. Beste oplossing is je filament op verschillende plaatsen meten en die waarde in de slicer invoeren. Andere optie is de filament dikte in de slicer gewoon houden zoals hij nu is maar de flow multiplier aanpassen. Persoonlijk meet ik het filament en noteer dat op de spool Een iets betere foto maakt het mogelby Frans@France - Algemeen
Looking at the image I think that the layers/traces are not fully sticking to the surface and curls up at the edges. Might be a combination of bed surface, bed distance and temperature and possible under extrusionby Frans@France - Printing