I don't know if you have access to a good CAD program, but I print a lot in nylon for one of my customers and what I did to solve my warping problems was make and assembly with two parts, the bottom part is a sacrificial one that is larger and solid then I constrain the actual part one layer apart from it (like a brim, but designed to improve adhesion and minimize wasted material) and the secondby ggherbaz - Printing
Of course the Mega/Ramps is suitable for the printer, the only thing you need to look for is the mounting holes, but even at that you can print an adapter.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Steve, True to an extent, a lot of crap but some sellers there sell good stuff if you know how to look for.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Use the old makerbot fan assembly that attach to the 2 lower fan bolts, there are several designs in thingiverse.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
A cheap plywood i3 frame is about 28 bucks on eBay, you will expend twice that getting decent rods for the i2. I like others are moving away from smooth and threaded rods to linear rails and aluminum extrusion, getting tired of printing broken or worn out plastic parts (only my kids printers will stay cheap)by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Set your starting g code with an extrusion command, you can set the distance, location on the plate, extrusion rate and speed. Just look for examples in Google.by ggherbaz - General
#define min_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. Check this value on your configuration h file, needs to be false.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
I bought mine from this supplier. USAby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Which is the thickness of your aluminum plate? It sound like you have the 3mm plates that Chinese places sell?if so get rid off it, it might not be flat and or warp on heat, get a 1/4 inche aluminum tooling plate. If you want to keep using it just sand it with fine grid to remove the anodized coatingby ggherbaz - Reprappers
Go to Aliexpress and search for "Prusa i3 extruder" it will show you several alternatives.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
What hotend you have? Does it have a cooling fan to cool the heatsink section? What temperature you are using?by ggherbaz - Printing
Aliexpress have some nice clones for about 18 dollars, and the adapter for 12. So if you cannot afford the original you have other choice.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Well it mostly depend on your printer but you can start with the simplest and work your way up until you find the best adhesion system for you. I use plain glass and purple glue stick from Elmers, if you don't use glass, clean your aluminum or PCB plate with alcohol and give it a try, if doesn't work add the glue, if still doesn't work add kapton tape, you can keep on going all the way up to theby ggherbaz - General
For gaps between perimeter lines just increase or decrease the thickness of it, just multiple the extrusion width by number of perimeter lines you want. For a 0.4 nozzle normal extrusion is 0.48 so 0.48 X 3 perimeters lines makes 1.44 thick shell or wall.by ggherbaz - Printing
Did you used the lm7805 without the capacitors and the diode? Specially the diode will protect the circuitry and the sensor from short circuit. Use a 1n4008 diode and a 470uf and 1uf electrolytic capacitors.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Smartrap printer have used that design for a while now although a little better constructed than the one on the video. You will have some inaccuracies due to flex and play from pivot point. If made in aluminum and bearings for pivot shaft it will be a solid performer.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Yes the problem is in the "heating unit" but not what you think, yes the thermistor might no giving you the right temperature, yes the heating resistor might be underpowered, but most important are three things: heat dissipation, heat transfer and melt zone. Lets say you are printing with PLA, heat up your hotend to 190 degrees and then extrude 10mm of filament, wait a minute and then retract alby ggherbaz - Printing
Do a simple test, just swap T0 with T1 and see if it reads it as the hotend temperature, if it does then the problem is in your hotend thermistor, if not the you might have issues with the main board you can change the pins for T0 to use either T2 or any other available pins that can perform the function.by ggherbaz - Printing
I'm not familiar with delta printers but you can do several things if you have eeprom enabled and a lcd display. First you can adjust your z offset via display or firmware (don't forget to save the changes), second you can use m500 after the ABL function in the start g code to be sure eeprom will use the new values instead of old ones (not sure if i'm correct here, but I read about it long time aby ggherbaz - Printing
I would definitely give it a try for my enclosed printer (currently using a 150 watts bulb) it keeps my chamber close to 90 degrees but consume a lot of power. It is already covered with insulation and aluminum tape so will have to design a short circuit protection.by ggherbaz - Developers
You need to first understand the process as a whole before assuming that the problem is in the software or the steps or even in the gear ratio of the extruder. Non of those things you mentioned are slowing your printer down, it's all in the hotend. Your hotend cannot keep up with the amount of filament your extruder is pushing in. The faster you print the higher the temperature and melt zone oby ggherbaz - Printing
The stepper driver in the board have a trim pot, with a multimeter measure voltage between ground and top of pot (dial) and adjust according to your stepper motor requirements. Without a multimeter turn it clockwise until the stepper start to make high pitch noise the slowly back it until noise disappear, if driver gets too hot while in operation, back the pot some more.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Not facing directly at heated bed but to the filament coming out of the nozzle without blowing to the nozzle. Check the traces in your board and see if it have any cuts or bad soldering, you can change the pins in the firmware and use other connectors for the heated bed thermistor.by ggherbaz - Printing
Try with a simple LM7805 regulator instead of the resistors, much simpler, reliable and cheap.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Check your stepper motor wires and connectors, I have that happened to me last year and it was a faulty wire connector at the stepper motor.by ggherbaz - Printing
Rice and salt. Put the salt in fabrics bagsby ggherbaz - Printing
Not all printers are the same even if they come from the same manufacturer. Most likely the extruder and hotend of each printer are different or are set differently. You need to modify the temperature (lower) and retraction (higher) settings for your flashforge dreamer to get the same results as the pro.by ggherbaz - Printing
My brass 0.5 nozzle haven't suffered any changes in over a year of use (don't print daily but at least twice a week) I clean it weekly and run a drill bit to check for any play, said that I replace my 0.4 brass nozzle on my other printer with a 0.4 ss nozzle and I don't know if is because of the thermal properties of the ss the prints come cleaner (it might be just because of new vs old) but i'mby ggherbaz - Printing
Ok, one thing I noticed is that you have your first layer extrusion set at 200% and most likely the reason for the elephants foot shown in your prints, either lowered to 110 or 120 max or set it to 0. You are actually printing slow so you can keep low extrusion temperatures between 185 and 195. Since is PLA, and they are small parts are you using a cooling fan for the printed parts?by ggherbaz - Printing
The white tube inside is a PTFE liner. Ok so most likely the problem you have is the nozzle to bed height. Without filament on your printer, load a file and hit print, as soon as it start "printing" hit stop and check the distance between nozzle and bed (a piece of paper should drag in between, if not then adjust it till is perfect. Slow your first layer to 50% of rest of print. Add some purplby ggherbaz - Reprappers