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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: printing issues - 11 years ago
ok, here are 3 surface calibrations printed with the following settings: ; layer_height = 0.2 ; perimeters = 3 ; top_solid_layers = 5 ; bottom_solid_layers = 5 ; fill_density = 0.2 ; perimeter_speed = 75 ; infill_speed = 75 ; travel_speed = 300 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.35 ; filament_diameter = 3.01 ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.35mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.52mm ; sby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: 
ABS and Kapton tape- all the same? or? - 11 years ago
I second the brim. I print on plain glass, cleaned with Windex and sprayed with a couple layers of Aquanet Super Hold hairspray. Things print and stick like they are superglued to the bed until it cools off. I did notice that I would get warping if my nozzle wasn't .1mm off the glass, replaced the rubber z-axis connectors with printed connectors and didn't adjust the offset. Obviously the rubberby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: [wip] My first ever 3d printer - prusa i3 Österlen - wood box frame. 
- 11 years ago
I like the single z-axis motor! I am planning and upgrade on my i3 in the near futureby randyf1965 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Calibration Help Prusa i3 - 11 years ago
Are you homing on min or max? check your config files. Sounds like you have the axis movements invertedby randyf1965 - General Mendel Topics
Re: printing issues - 11 years ago
Running a Prusa i3 with a Wades geared extruder and a E3D hotend using 3mm ABSby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: printing issues - 11 years ago
The corner that is messed up seems to be where the printer retract them extrudes before starting printing the next layer. I have my retract at 4mm @ 60mm/sby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: printing issues - 11 years ago
ok, so I slowed the print down to 50mm/s first layer, 75mm/s perimeter, small and external @50%, solid infill 90mm/s the rest 125mm/s. Still have 1 bad cornerby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Filament jams - Bulldog XL & E3D - 11 years ago
Is the fan running on the hotend full speed all the time? My E3D stays cool above the heat break when the fan is runningby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Print fails after first layer - hobbed bolt starts slipping - 11 years ago
If you air print does it still strip? Adjust your z endstop so it is well above the bed and run the same print job. I had issues stripping on the first layer because the gap between the bed and nozzle was too tight.by randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Print fails after first layer - hobbed bolt starts slipping - 11 years ago
how fast are you printing after the first layer?by randyf1965 - Printing
Re: printing issues - 11 years ago
I have calibrated all axis and my extruder. Yet I still have raised rough corners and the top surface of the part has gaps.by randyf1965 - Printing
printing issues - 11 years ago
I am trying to use Slic3r and all the options seem to be kicking my ass...... All speeds are 100mm/s except 1st layer 50mm/s and small/external perimeters at 50% Fill density 20% layer height .2mm So here is a printby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Hot end - 11 years ago
I second the E3D hotend.. thing ROCKS!by randyf1965 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out - 11 years ago
I just printed the auto touch z-axis end stops for my Prusa i3. Autoleveling works great using the nozzle of the hotend on the bed.by randyf1965 - General Mendel Topics
Re: First time 3D printer user... Struggling with ABS and starting layers - 11 years ago
I would try a cheap piece of glass cut down to fit, glass is easy to cut, just watch a couple youtube videos on it. Nice thing about printing on glass is the SMOOTH finishby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Midwest RepRap Fest 2014 - 11 years ago
I am planning on going , should be there mid morning Saturdayby randyf1965 - General
Re: Hot End - 11 years ago
I bought a E3D a week or so ago to replace my Chinese J-head and have NOT regretted it at all. Heats in a flash, all metal, 2 parts in the filament path so if you do clog it, easy to disassemble and clear.by randyf1965 - General
Re: Recommendation on a cheap hot end? - 11 years ago
I started with e Chinese knock-off j-head and had nothing but trouble. Bit the bullet and bought a E3D, all I can say is WOW!! This hotend rocks, J-head wouldn't print on the glass, had to use blue tape and elmers glue stick. Well worth the price, not much more than the "cheap" j-head. My hobbed bolt limits me to 225mm/s extrusions any faster and it just slips before the filament hits the heateby randyf1965 - General
Re: First time 3D printer user... Struggling with ABS and starting layers - 11 years ago
I found I get better adhesion directly on the glass. Started with blue painters tape with purple Elmers gluestick. Now I print at 240c nozzle and 135c bed. First I clean it with Windex until it squeeks then 97% isopropyl alcohol. Prints stick like they are epoxied to the glass until it cools then they pop right off. Need to get another piece of glass cut so I can swap and keep printing. Also cby randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Persistent extruder jamming - 11 years ago
A gap between the extruder and the hotend? The extruder should slip into the hole on the bottom of the extruder and bottom out against the extruder. Then either clamp into place (using the flat clmap that slips into the grooves on the hotend) or use 2 screws from the front to hold it into place.by randyf1965 - Printing
Re: Gen6 auto-level - 11 years ago
Got my 1284p last night. popped it into my Sanguinololu and enabled auto-leveling, all I can say is WOW! Works like a champ using the auto touch z end-stops on my Prusa i3by randyf1965 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Gen6 auto-level - 11 years ago
You need the Atmega 1284p not the 644p to enable autoleveling.... I have a 1284p in the mail hopeful I will have it today or tomorrow so I can autolevelby randyf1965 - General Mendel Topics
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 11 years ago
Holy Moly!!! I built a Prusa i3 and started with a Chinese J-Head clone and couldn't get it to print on any surface reliably. Switched to the E3D and now I can print straight on the glass. I didn't do anything to the glass I hadn't tried before just cleaned with Windex glass cleaner. Thanks for the kick ass hotend!!!by randyf1965 - General
Re: First Attempt at hobbing a 8mm bolt - 11 years ago
To get perfect placement of the hobbed bolt I turned the inside of the head down until it centered the groove on the opening for the extruder. Now I can insert the filament in the top and it feeds straight to the hole. Before I had to loosen the tension roller and feed it in manually.by randyf1965 - General
Re: First Attempt at hobbing a 8mm bolt - 11 years ago
Tried to hob a harden steel bolt. Will have to build a jig to hold the bolt and tap then SLOWLY turn tap. Too hard to do by hand and keep it steadyby randyf1965 - General
Re: First Attempt at hobbing a 8mm bolt - 11 years ago
it is a 50mm bolt and I found it works better with the nut on the pulley side since the hob section would be on the taper going to the threads the other way around. The hobbed bolt I bought has almost flat teeth, my curved teeth fit the 3mm filament I am using less than 50% of the circumference. Manually turning the pulley it grips way better than my purchased bolt. But I won't know until I getby randyf1965 - General
First Attempt at hobbing a 8mm bolt - 11 years ago
I recently completed a Prusa i3 build and had purchased a hobbed bolt but wanted to try my hand at it. I used a triangle needle file to groove the bolt chucked in my drill press then used a small round needle file to make a round groove roughly the size of a 4mm tap. Used my drill press vise to hold a hand drill with the tap in the chuck and took the belt off the drill press. Running the hanby randyf1965 - General