I had one arduino that was particularly susceptible to this. Swapping it out basically solved the problem. I realise that isn't a great help, but it is a data point.by Greg Frost - Developers
I have never liked the idea of battery powered vacuuming. What about the idea of the vacuum having a spool of electrical cord that it plays out as it moves away from its starting position. And reels it in as it moves closer. Then you could have a properly powered vacuum instead of something that only works well on hard floors.by Greg Frost - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Where do you get the magnets?by Greg Frost - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I can see in your slic3r image that the part is only 160mm wide ( look at the 10mm grid ) If you include the skirt, it is 172mmby Greg Frost - General
It's all a matter of size I think. With gear teeth the size of those used on the wades extruded, pla seems very robust. Going much smaller though and you may have problems. This will mean that, depending on what you intend to do, the gearbox may become quite large. That then takes a long time to print. Bit as vik said in another post. If the parts won't be getting hot, then has excellent materialby Greg Frost - Robots!
One upside down advantage: less or perhaps no ooze. I have wanted to try it, but on a standard prusa the way the x ends mount to the z rods is a bit problematic.by Greg Frost - General
To run at the same federate, a larger nozzle needs to melt much more plastic. I think what you are running into is he melt rate limit of your hotend. A bigger nozzle probably needs a longer and possibly higher power (depending on the power head room you have) heating zone.by Greg Frost - General
I have seen this occasionally too (printer freezes mid print). I run the printer using a laptop which has a brick supply that is not earthed (the supply has a power connector with only 2 prongs). The 12v supply for the printer is also a brick style (12v 6 amp) which has no earth connection. My heat bed is a 240 v bed controlled by an SSR. The bed is connected to the earth of the heat bed power leby Greg Frost - General
There was another thread asking this question and the consensus was that it damages the permanent magnet(s). Someone did a test and confirmed a reduction in torque after reassembly.by Greg Frost - General
Measure the resistance of the thermistor using the lead. If it is not 100k or there abouts, then you have damaged it and will need to replace it. The other thing that it could be is a damaged a/d on your arduino mega. That would probably mean a new arduino.by Greg Frost - Reprappers
Twist works done on x. I do it and had a quality improvement as a result, particularly when using t5 belt.by Greg Frost - Reprappers
There are plenty of pay model sites around. Some with quite expensive models too. A micro payment model site seems like something that should be viable and might be useful.by Greg Frost - General
Really? Why does the magnetic strength degrade? This sounds a bit like an old wives tale.by Greg Frost - General
Also read this blog post by nophead: That gives arguments for another option.by Greg Frost - General Mendel Topics
Wipe the nozzle with oilby Greg Frost - Reprappers
Here is some filament from the first test of my 3 colour feed to one nozzle extruder: From 3 colour extruder:by Greg Frost - Developers
Simba Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Wow @ bike pedal. Wouldn't trust the strength of > that myself... But it should be doable. That was my thought too. I'd like to see a picture of the printed part.by Greg Frost - General
That is where thermocouples would come in handy because you don't need multiple a/d channels. Would add to the price a bit though to have 10 max6675 chips.by Greg Frost - Developers
The feed resistance has two components. One is imposed by the nozzle. If this is high, but you can still extrude consistently, then that is a good thing. The other component is the resistance to feeding the plastic due to the glass transition plug. This will vary quite a bit with the extruder geometry and thermal gradient in the transition zone and may also not be very consistent or predictable.by Greg Frost - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Nice! I hope it works well for you. You know, most people don't seem to realise that there was an upgrade to the extruder body that went along with that that made observing and cleaning the Hobbed bolt easier (wider opening at the top of the extruder body).by Greg Frost - Look what I made!
I don't know about that. OpenSCAD tends not to like really detailed stls for some reason. Inhave had the same issue before too.by Greg Frost - General
Another thing that might cause issues on one side is a nozzle that dies not have a completely symmetrical opening. Perhaps the nozzle is not perfectly normal to the build platform, or not completely square on the end. I fave heard of people placing very fine grit sandpaper in the bed and running the extruder back and forth over it to ensure everything is flat and square.by Greg Frost - General
Check it isn't refusing to move one way because it thinks the endstop is triggered.by Greg Frost - Reprappers
You could try nophead's oozeless start technique:by Greg Frost - Reprappers
Sounds like you had heat travelling up your insulator to the point where the filament softened at the input and bulged causing a jam. A fan on the insulator can help with this sort of problem.by Greg Frost - Mendel90
I'm running an older version of skeinforge because I went through a painful experimentation/ analysis process to get dimensional accuracy. I found that when I got the flow rate right to properly 100% fill objects, the objects were slightly too large (dovetails would not fit together). I managed to find a combination of flow feed and width settings that made the perimeter path wider without additiby Greg Frost - General
Follow the thread of extruder upgrades on thingiverse starting with my original greg's wade. Each update usually came with a description of what improvements were made. Start here You might also want to look at my X ends (the screw adjustable z stop depressor was a useful addition).by Greg Frost - General
Also check your Hobbed bolt isn't clogged with plastic. Also consider infill every n layers in slic3r. It allows you to have fine perimeters and coarser infill which can help low percentage infill span gaps if your flow rate would otherwise be too slow because of your fine outer layer height making the filament snap.by Greg Frost - General
Why do you think you can't print 0.1 or 0.2 mm layers with a 0.5 nozzle? Many people have done that quite successfully.by Greg Frost - General
I guess you just need to change the y steps per mm each layer. You would want the origin to be near the middle of the print and make sure that the extruder moved back to the origin when the steps per mm was changed. Then, provided that you distort the model in the way shown above, you should be able to print using standard firmware.by Greg Frost - General