Full power with a max temp of only 300°C would give slow heat up times no? How many watts is that? If it does, a secondary high power heater could boost the temp up for a limited time, then shut off and never turn on again during the print. The problem with the hot end right now is that it stays on in illogical ways, like full power for more than a specific amount of time if the thermistor is lby Yvan - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteCraigRK Quotebobc Stupid question, but if mintemp is set to 210, how does the heater ever turn on? Not so stupid. It is the one thing that I have been wondering about. A number of people have been talking about this, but none of them seem to really know how this feature works in the firmware. On my machine this is set to 5C and it means that in winter I can't get my printer (which livesby Yvan - Safety & Best Practices
Thanks, that is very useful info! I'm going to pass it on. We are looking at the Voxel Factory machine, but I don't know how reliable it is. I'm guessing the barrels are made from a stainless bolt... those are dificult to drill through. I'm going to look into this bowden option....by Yvan - General
Hey Otter, welcome to da forum! I can't let the nozzles drag on the glass with my machines. It seals the orifice perfectly and the extruder strips the filament. That is the only cause of stripping I have. I used to have a home made nozzle that was wonky, that one prevented stripping because it leaked when pressed against glass. For PLA I sometimes use green or blue tape and that doesn't cause sby Yvan - General
Well my wife took a quick look last night to see what people are up to dual extrusion wise, and it didn't look very good. Seems there are quite a few complications. Still very interested in feedback from anyone, as I want to build one of these machines, at least as a test bed. It may or may not be on a Pr. i3 frame if that is not a good match.by Yvan - General
Calling a local machine shop might lead you to a place that does water jet cutting. It might be a bit expensive for just one frame though. The place I deal with has a $75 flat fee just to put metal on the cutting table...by Yvan - Reprappers
QuoteOhmarinus QuoteYvan How about grooving the bearings yourself? It's easy. I tried with my Dremel, no luck. Those bearings are superhard! Bearings are super hard, but cut off disks are super harder! I have used a Dremel/die grinder with one of those little heavy duty cut off disks. Position things so the die grinder is resting against something and the bearing can spin freely on a bolt helby Yvan - General
Yes, I upgraded to the M10 for the long parts of the Y axis frame, much better. Ideally, I would like to find a good reliable compact extruder that I can pair up without adding too much mass and width to the X axis.by Yvan - General
How about grooving the bearings yourself? It's easy.by Yvan - General
Hello Everyone, Someone is looking for a dual extrusion option. I have some unfinished Prusa i3 frames left, and I've seen a few of that style with dual extrusion. Does anyone have any suggestions, warnings or recommendations for such a combination? I have not experimented with bowden extruders(seems like a good match), but if that was the very best option I would look into it. For me it woulby Yvan - General
QuoteT3P3 The proper J heads made by Brian at RPW are machined differently to suit the filament diameter. I have found the clones that use inserts to be very unreliable. See Brain's blog post on the subject: Thanks, that confirms my suspicion. How exactly would the heat flow through the small PTFE tube inserted into the 3 mm bore of the brass heater block work, among other things. I've onby Yvan - General
I thought J-Heads could be converted to 1.75 mm by inserting a small PTFE tube inside them? I'm planning some kind of switch over to 1.75 mm for some of the machines here. I'd like to not have to buy new hot ends though.by Yvan - General
I've just bought a large package of 2 mm ID heat shrink tubing for use with stepper motor wiring. 2.5 mm ID might also work well I think.by Yvan - General
Roger, I was thinking tests could be done on inexpensive off cuts from a local metal supplier before paying for someone to machine it flat. Depending on your budget... I do a lot of inexpensive testing like that, and I keep the big bucks for buying in bulk or good tools.by Yvan - Reprappers
aduy, what kind of rods were the igus bearings running on? Hardened and polished rods should be very slick with those. Even the chromed rods which mayb not be the best with ball type bearings should be very good with any kind of good plastic bushing/bearing. Maybe they were very tight to start with, or even picked up an abrasive debris?by Yvan - General
Thanks for the info. I've been thinking of upgrading. We are also looking into Repetier and a possible upgrade from Pronterface.by Yvan - Reprappers
Maybe he is reading the forum!by Yvan - Reprappers
I've noticed that the aluminium plate I get a hold of is not very flat. Maybe at and over 3 mm it is fairly flat in smaller sizes like 20 cm x 20 cm. Also, if it is cut to size with a hydrolic shear, that can distort it. I've been using a bandsaw to cut up to 1/2 plate, that is very good it seems. The thicker it gets the flatter it is as a rule. 1000 series of alloys are really heat conductive BTby Yvan - Reprappers
Keep in mind that the finish on the rod will have a big impact on how long a bushing lasts. I've seen many commonly available 304(inox) rods that had a rather rough surface. They were ground, but not polished.by Yvan - General
I wouldn't want to stear you in the wrong direction with my limited first hand experiance concerning alternatives. Maybe it is worth starting a new topic that focuses on the alternatives? I've been sticking to glass(no pun intended!) so as to avoid dealing with all the complexities of other materials! I'm not really satisfied with glass though, for several reason...by Yvan - Reprappers
Quotekrafter I've backed 42 projects on Kickstarter. To date none have gone bust or were scams. I really dislike when people imply that many, or even the majority, of Kickstarter projects are scams. Kickstarter makes it fairly clear that you have no guarantee of success. I think people just need to apply a little bit of skepticism to their choices. It is not hard to tell what the going price isby Yvan - General
The aluminium may warp with the heat, so that is tricky. It is done, but you have to take a few variables into account. I use 3 mm glass, a bit cheaper, and I buy larger pieces that I cut down myself. Multiple print surfaces can be handy. Still can't figure out why Nophead's trick works. There is much mystery in this. There seems to be a lot of variation, and not just depending on the source ofby Yvan - Reprappers
Hi Steve, welcome to the forum! Who did you buy them from? Might save someone else the same grief... Obviously the parts were printed on a very poorly set up machine. I don't know if they are usable. Someone could always carve, force, and heat form some of those back into usable shape, then print better parts. It depends on the money vs time equation.by Yvan - Reprappers
Quotejzatopa I thought thought the failure rate for venture capital/angel/startups was 50%, when I goggled it what came up was 75%. Yvan there are three types of failure on Kickstarter. The first is failing the initial kickstarter review, they reject applications that don't fit certain criteria. The second failure is failure to get funded, the rate is about 50% from what I understand. From myby Yvan - General
Quotejzatopa Angel investing and venture capital is way more risky. I don't know about that. What is the failure rate on Kickstarter? Does anyone even know? That right there is a massive risk. To say that angel investing is way more risky, we would have to see comparative numbers. Unless someone can point me in the right direction, I haven't seen anything at all like that from Kickstarter. Theby Yvan - General
Kickstarter just masks the fact that all of this is just another way of getting venture capital, without even obtaining equity in the start up! If someone is okay with venture capital and being an angel investor, but want something that is riskier, then Kickstarter is great! How the heck would you even perform due diligence? That said, I still find Kickstarter fun, but it is a type of gamblinby Yvan - General
I've had the same issue a number of times. At first I also wondered about head crashes, but the physics aren't right for the damage to come from head contact. It is caused by adhesion. Each additional print job strips away contaminants on the glass until you have a bond between perfectly clean glass and hot ABS. I've learned to let things cool more before sliding parts off. I used to pry them ofby Yvan - Reprappers
Each time? Is it very consistent, not random?by Yvan - Reprappers
The bigger the market, the more likely things are to go to court, no? Someone was telling me rights from a big name for use in their own product(vehicule parts) was about a million dollars a year. For under one hundred thousand units per year. Seems it would very quickly get to the point where a $10 000 0000 or more lawsuit would be a good bet if it had a decent chance to work out.by Yvan - General
QuoteDirty Steve it looks to me like a slic3r auto-calculated extrusion width problem. Developer will not acknowledge this problem. Under Print Settings>Advanced set default extrusion width to the same size as your nozzle, this will effectively place your extruder passes closer together. You will need to adjust your extrusion multiplier for your manually set extrusion width. Is it just me,by Yvan - Reprappers