What ggherbaz said. Also check to see if you have any local makerspaces, universities, or libraries that might provide access to a printer.by Kurzaa - General
As ElmoC mentioned, I believe you need at least 1.09x firmware and 1.10 DWC along with the iap.bin file in order to upgrade via the web interface. For upgrading via USB from 1.09b, I believe you will have to erase the current version of the software to default back to a Arduino Due bootloader before installing the new firmware. At least I believe that is what I had to do to go from 1.09r to 1.09by Kurzaa - Duet
QuoteElmoCDo you really need to use ABS? PETG has about the same strength properties without the warping issue ABS has. Was about to say the same thing. Just started looking into different filaments and while you likely will benefit from printing PETG on a heated bed, it doesn't have the smell of ABS and won't need the enclosed chamber (can be hard to do on a delta).by Kurzaa - General
Until you get a better answer, have you tried rotating the display?by Kurzaa - Duet
Is the site listed for sale? That is just a recent page capture from this year, try going back to 2014 in the web archive and you should be able to open the calculator. Didn't play with it myself, but the page did load when I was looking at it this past weekend.by Kurzaa - Tantillus
Not sure why you copy pasted the test script text instead of just saving the existing *.pde. Did you right click and save file or just open up the file? Its possible you missed a curly bracket during the copy paste. Can you attach your configuration.h file and possibly your config_adv.h files so we can take a look at them.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Sorry Treito, didn't explain myself clearly. I was thinking more along the lines of running Octoprint on the Duet itself. The idea being is that you modify a few files on the back-end so that Octoprint will run on the 32-bit chip. Entirely possible that my idea is completely infeasible. I did just remember one improvement though, that might not be on the to-do list...filtering file names when upby Kurzaa - Duet
I want to say that both chrishamm and dc42 have been doing a great job with updating the Duet firmware and the DWC. I couldn't be happier with my Duet 0.8.5 and any minor things I could think of changing are likely already on the to do list. So I am by no means critizing their work. However, this past week with the situation happening to Octoprint, I was wondering if it might be better to switchby Kurzaa - Duet
If the LCD back light is coming on but you are not seeing any text, it is likely working correctly but the firmware was not modified to use the LCD. You might try uploading this script, , which will cause your motors to move back and forth and flash the LEDs on the board. That way you will have an idea that everything is still working correctly.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Be careful not to let the screw driver slip and cause a short.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
QuoteEDIT 2: ok I still have yet to test the other axes like you mentioned I started hearing some static'y noises from the board I'm using. maybe the stepper driver? anyway, I decided to touch the heatsink to see if it was warm, and found it to be extremely hot to the point where as soon as I placed my finger on it, my reaction was to pull it off immediately. should it get that hot? also the stepby Kurzaa - Reprappers
I would stick with the MXL belt for right now since it came with the kit. Did a quick search and according to an eBay posting, the belt pitch should be something like 2.039 (sorry, didn't write it down). If your calibration prints are really off though, you can always swap out your belts at a later time to improve your prints.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Dust is more knowledgeable then me, but I wonder if you accidentally fried the stepper driver. You never want to plug the motors in or remove them while the board has power. That said, there is a test script on the RepRap website (try Google) that you can upload to your Arduino / RAMPS board. It will move the motors back and forth, flash LEDs, and so on to give you an indication that the board isby Kurzaa - Reprappers
Not an expert, but I think the way it works is you have the values hardcoded in your firmware, that are overwritten by the settings in your EEPROM (if enabled), which are overwritten by your printers "RAM". When you turn on your printer board, the settings from your firmware or the EEPROM are copied over to the printers "RAM". Any changes you make to the printer through g-code commands or the LCDby Kurzaa - Reprappers
As far as I know, there are two main types of motors, 1.8 degree (200 steps) and 0.9 degree (400 steps). The most common are the 200 step motors as I believe the 400 step motors are more expensive. So start with that. You are also likely to be using 1/16 stepping, which is also the most common. Grats are figuring out the mains power issue.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Its possible Pronterface has an active connection to the printer still when you are trying to connect to the COM port. If Pronterface is closed, try rebooting the computer and then reconnecting the board.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Recently started using Slic3r 1.2.9 directly, cutting out the Repetier Host middle man. I can see the length of filament used in mm, total height, etc..., but was wondering if their was a way to estimate the time to print the file?by Kurzaa - Slic3r
Thanks for the continued hard work on the firmware. You and DC42 have been doing a great job. Two questions though, why the jump to 1.11? Are we losing the letter upgrade system? Second, is there a way to send a URL string to get back pieces of data from the current print? I have been thinking about getting an Amazon Echo recently and I thought it would be cool to ask Alexa the remaining time oby Kurzaa - Duet
Have you checked Thingiverse? I think someone just posted a new case and they may have included the board model. Please let us know what you find though, I would like to finally mount my printer board and clean up my wiring.by Kurzaa - Duet
I was just wondering, can Simplify3D save gcode files directly to the SD card on Duet board?by Kurzaa - Duet
The firmware currently on your printer board has been compiled into machine code as part of the upload process. If EEPROM was enabled in the firmware then you can configure some settings on the board while it is running, using M500 to M503 commands to save and reload the EEPROM during the calibration. However, in my limited experience, I think you would be better off in the long run learning howby Kurzaa - Reprappers
The following was printed on a Rostock Mini along with a second STL that failed due to the 4-6 mm of filament starvation seen in the photo above the nose but below eye line. Due to the curves in the print it seems to be holding. I am assuming that there was a temporary clog in my E3D v6 causing the lack of filament in the print, but I wanted to get a second opinion and see if anyone has any suggby Kurzaa - Printing
Couple days late, but I wanted to mention the TP-Link Nano Router can be used to give your Duet WiFi via the ethernet port but it can also be used as a repeater which might boost the WiFi connection in your garage. Just a thought incase you weren't aware of it, runs $15 to $30 on Amazon depending on the model (N150 vs. N300).by Kurzaa - Duet
Do you have the baud rate set correctly? Can you connect to the web UI via ethernet to ensure the board is working correctly?by Kurzaa - Duet
Printer is definitely a Prusa i3, so using the instructions from the Geeetech website should work well for you. From the pictures I am assuming a composite wood board frame rather than an acyrlic? Might not hurt to go through the instructions line by line to ensure everything is put together correctly and facing the right direction. The circuit board should be the same as the one you posted. Itby Kurzaa - Reprappers
I tried printing PLA directly to glass from a cheesecake pan. Didn't stick at all, but I wasn't using a heated bed. Using Elmers Purple glue stick and a proper (?) bed height, everything sticks great. I think the big difference between the mirror and the borosilacite plate glass is the heat distribution of the glass. The mirror has a better chance of cracking during the heat-up and cooldown of aby Kurzaa - Reprappers
@Steamboat... Post some photos of your printer so people on the forums can try to figure out what you are working with. Have you uploaded in new firmware in order to calibrate the extruder steps per mm as well as the X, Y, and Z axis? I believe 50-60 degrees is the ideal bed temperature for printing PLA onto clean glass. But you also need to adjust that temperature for the actual temperature ofby Kurzaa - Reprappers
Do you have the correct COM port listed for the printer? Should be listed under device manager (?) on Windows. Have you installed the Arduino IDE? You might be missing drivers for the board.by Kurzaa - General
Haven't measured it yet, I don't have a compass currently (or is it a protractor?), but watching the rods move during an auto-calibration it looks like I am right at 20 degrees when probing opposite the towers. I rarely try to print anything that large, so I might shorten the probing points somewhat. The wizard on the Escher3D website is great for that. Otherwise, between my recently upgraded Duby Kurzaa - Delta Machines