Thanks for the pictures, Your making good progress. This thread sparked my interest into building one too. Parts are on order & 20 hours worth of prints done. a couple of questions if you don't mind......... Are you going to use end stops and implement the auto squaring function? What software are you going to use to make the G-code?by Shank man - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Sweet !!! I'll be following this one for sure.by Shank man - CoreXY Machines
QuoteTraumflug There's simply not much to talk about Gen7, because it works so flawlessly.. I concurby Shank man - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Quotepiper3d There were few changes in resent time. New Z roller with 2 additional holes to tighten bearings around the pipe in version 2, and optional version 3 update came out with updates replacing Z roller with Z PTFE sliders and 8 and 12mm linear rods conversion on XY. okay thank you, I'll take a look at those. There are probably some other details I missed along the way. In spite of not haby Shank man - General New Machines Topics
My second print is this 117 x 117 x 118 Super Lattice Cube. it took just over 9-1/2 hours to complete. I don't think for a minute that its a great print but considering it was made on this low budget printer, its not too bad. The layers are consistent but the surface has a rough finish. Slowing down the printer might improve the quality a little. This was printed at 40mm/Second. While theby Shank man - General New Machines Topics
Irregardless those are some damn nice prints. I really need to make some enclosures for my printers.by Shank man - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Does anyone know how to add a ATC Semitec 104GT-2 thermistor table to Teacup? The thermistor came with a E3D v6 hot end and I'd hate to swap it out. My print host is reporting back higher then actual hot end temperatures. I'm guessing this because I really don't have a way to measure the temperature except with the host. When printing PLA at 195 degrees, I'm getting a lot of jams. I took apartby Shank man - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Nice. I especially like the electronics compartment.by Shank man - CoreXY Machines
Is this the beginning of a build log? It looks like a fun project. Keep us posted on your progress.by Shank man - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Why not use PETG? Its a whole lot friendlier to work with and still offers some flexibility (not as much as ABS tho.) to clamp down where needed. It has the added benefit of not having to scale up your parts to compensate for shrinkage. Just a thought.by Shank man - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
File or SD card is corrupt or EMI issuesby Shank man - Printing
I completed the build by adding a Gen7-ARM controller, E3D-V6 hot end, and a Air tripper Bowden Extruder. These were all spare or left over parts from other printer upgrades. The 608 bearings, pulleys, some metric hardware and the conduit were the only items I had to order. After battling extrusion issues I was able to get this first print. Of the 4 RepRap printers I have made this is by faby Shank man - General New Machines Topics
This is the 200x300x200 build. The smallest of the 4. Only 2 - 10 foot lengths of E.M.T. were enough to build the frame From 1 of the 10 foot lengths I was able to cut.. 1 Each, Base front along X axis 385mm 1 Each, Base back along X axis 367mm 2 Each, X rails 477mm 1 Each, Top along X axis 385mm 2 Each, Z supportby Shank man - General New Machines Topics
It came out great! Are you using a water cooled hot end? What kind of printer? Are you going to anneal it?by Shank man - Printing
Without being able to see your printer all anyone can do is make some best guesses. Is it possible that your nozzel hit the print? If your putting down too much plastic it sticks up and the nozzel hits it.That could account for the noise. Check the z travel to make sure its moving up the correct heighth for every layer. Enabling Z-hop sometimes helps but its not a fix. Sorry if I'm telling thingby Shank man - Printing
It looks like you have some over extrusion issues too.by Shank man - Printing
I was using ABS exclusively for a couple of years as I've always preferred it to PLA. After long print sessions I would have slight headaches the following day. Printing in a small apartment without a good ventilation probably wasn't a good idea. It maybe unrelated. I use PETG for the most part now.by Shank man - Safety & Best Practices
Try changing the retraction distance to 4mm and try again. Tweak this figure until you get the desired results. And what PDBeal recommendby Shank man - Printing
Wow! those are nice. Where did you buy them from?by Shank man - General
Using a Tontec 7" touch screen hooked to a Raspi-pi connected to a Gen7 controller. I have have Pronterface loaded on the Pi. Everything works except when I issue a command to move a axis or turn on a heater there is a 8 second delay before the command takes effect. I was thinking that over clocking the Pi might help but thought I'd get some opinions here first. Any help is appreciated Rayby Shank man - Controllers
QuoteRoberts_Clif I wrap my LCD Cables in Blue Painters Tape individually to give them a covering before applying Aluminum Foil Duct Tape on each wire. This is then Aluminum Foil Duct Taped to the 3D Printers 2020 Aluminum frame and grounded on each side. This has worked very well on both my 3D Printer with EFI problems. Thanks, I'll give this a tryby Shank man - RAMPS Electronics
Is there anyway to print directly from a Sdramps? I prefer to print untethered from a PC. I can see and select a file on the card when I'm in Repetier host but if I disconnect the PC it kills the print. I was hoping I could turn on the printer and have it load the file and start the print. I would only have one file on the SD card. I usually use a smart controller but have been having EMI problemby Shank man - RAMPS Electronics
With any bit of luck your hot end will come with the nozzles aligned. You will probably need to do some fine tuning tho. I lower my Z until both nozzle tips are 0.5mm away from the bed then loosen the set screws holding in the heat breaks. With both nozzle tips resting on the bed, I slide a sheet of paper under nozzle #1 and tighten down the heat break set screw. Nozzle #2 gets 2 sheets of paperby Shank man - General
Very nice. How long did it take to do the modeling? I've always been a big fan of Blender but have to admit to not being able to use it to its full capacity. Blender is severely underrated IMHO.by Shank man - Look what I made!
I feel your pain. I have those same problems.I don't think it will ever work with a Bowden type extruder pushing 1.75 PVA filament. PVA flexes like a rubber band making retraction difficult at best. The one exception is Ultimaker but they use 3.0mm PVA .A whole lot more rigid. I believe a direct drive feeder is best for 1.75 PVA. I only have Bowdens for my Chimera so I can't verify. Tomorrow I'mby Shank man - Printing
I've run into the same problem. Does one end of the shield get terminated to ground?by Shank man - RAMPS Electronics
This is slightly off topic but I was wondering if now that Microsoft has taken possession of Github do they take ownership of all that is posted there?by Shank man - Slic3r
don't get too hung up on these springs. If you ordered a kit and the springs came with it then chances are they are the right ones. If your prints are coming out the right height than those might not be the problem at all. If you can squeeze the springs closed with your fingers they should be okay to. I have read on some posts that anti-backlash springs on the Z-screws are a waste.The weight ofby Shank man - General Mendel Topics
Did you set your layer height to 80% or less, of your nozzle diameter? Those are some tall layers. Those layers aren't bonding together like they should. I don't see any evidence of your Z height coming short. Looks like you might have to adjust some speed settings and the X-Y jerk. Overall they look pretty good to me.by Shank man - General Mendel Topics
The problem will become more pronounced when you do taller prints. 14.5mm isn't very tall. Remember your extruder will continue to feed the same amount of filament. and if your Z isn't moving up the proper distance, the topmost layers of taller prints will become mashed down and eventually your hotend will start scraping the top and might cause a layer shift. I only mention the backlash springsby Shank man - General Mendel Topics