Do your Z-screws turn easily using your hands? There might be some binding there. What kind of anti-backlash springs did you use? The Z travel should be exact just like the X & Y.by Shank man - General Mendel Topics
Thanks I can't believe I didn't see it the first time. This is the one created from the latest commit. I did not alter the printer or board files. I hope this works. I can attach my earlier hex file if need beby Shank man - Controllers
QuoteTheCrazyInventor QuoteShank man I installed the latest commit and had no problem connecting with Pronterface running on both Windows & Raspian. I think that possibly could rule out any bugs? Could you perhaps upload the .hex file so I can give that a try on my board? Maybe I'm having compiler/linker issues or something like that. sure, if you can tell me where it is or go about makingby Shank man - Controllers
I installed the latest commit and had no problem connecting with Pronterface running on both Windows & Raspian. I think that possibly could rule out any bugs?by Shank man - Controllers
I pulled your files into the Configtool and saved it as a config.h. and when I tried to compile it a few errors popped up. Here are the files I'm using on my Mendel style printer They compile and upload fine. I don't rely on the firmware to turn my power supply on and off. I'm not sure of the actual commit number, It was December 2016 when I downloaded the zip file. I tried to attach it here butby Shank man - Controllers
can you post these files? (board.gen7-arm.h and printer.mendel.h) I have a couple of these boards up and running and I'll compare the files to see if anything differs.Its worth a shot..by Shank man - Controllers
Probably because that's the max temperature set in your firmwareby Shank man - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you solve the problem, cause mine is exactly the same. Every print so far started in the right bottom corner triggering the endstops of x and y, no matter even if the offset postions in marlin were changed. In my case all I had to do was increase the voltage to my X stepper. I turned the potentiometer a little and the printer started behaving normally. It seemed odd that it worked great byby Shank man - CoreXY Machines
Although this budget friendly laser uses are limited, it is suitable for some applications. Cutting out patterns from paper and balsam wood doesn’t interest me although it probably would be good for cutting out stencils. My antique Prusa I2 doesn’t offer much in the way of X & Y dimensions, only 180 x 180, so they would have to be small stencils. Using it to cut patterns would likely decreaby Shank man - General Mendel Topics
DD is using the hype of the plastic gun as a method to increase traffic to their site and sell their mini-mills. Along with the mills they sell lower receivers and other parts that would normally have serial numbers had they come through legal channels. They sell a cheap block of aluminum (at a considerable markup) and all you have to do is to put on finishing touches to make it usable. All of tby Shank man - General
Increasing you infill percentage will help. It will give the first layer some support to stop the sagging and more area to stick to.by Shank man - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm guessing its way to cold. I print it at 240-250c. Yours must be a special blend?by Shank man - Prusa i3 and variants
If that video had been a hour long I would have watched every second of it. I never grow tired watching your printer and my attention span for watching 3D printers videos is about 8 seconds. Great camera work too Rayby Shank man - Look what I made!
QuoteTrakyan Out of curiosity, are you doing anything to compensate for the fact that as you go further out (z axis goes up) the circumference increases? If you slicer is assuming its constant then you'd end up under extruding and the gaps between extrusion lines that aren't perpendicular to the rotation axis will get bigger which I think I can see happening in the pictures. Otherwise awesome buiby Shank man - Reprappers
Quotemadmike8 That’s pretty cool. You want to give us some details? The bed was cobbled together from a 160mm piece of 3" PVC pipe with some printed ends to hold a 8mm nut, a 230mm piece of 8mm threaded rod, a couple of 608zz bearings, a nema 17 motor and a limit switch. All left over material from past projects and rebuilds. The gears are nothing more than large Wades geared extruder gearsby Shank man - Reprappers
the print quality would be a little better if I used a belt & pulley instead of printed gears to rotate the bedby Shank man - Reprappers
Correct and placed diagonally so it didn't overlap.by Shank man - General
this print doesn't look like much but I think I might be able to get some interesting prints from a rotary bed. my firmware settings are 130 x 1500 x 10. This print was overall 107.5 x 1100 x 4. the circumference of the bed is 282 mmby Shank man - General
its not all that difficult to make one. I made this towards the end of last year to laser etch some acrylic tumblers. It is primitive but worked fine. no modifications to Marlin needed. You just need to adjust the Y travel to the circumference of the tube. I considered briefly about removing the laser and trying to print on a tube but couldn't come up with any ideas on what to make. rotary y adaby Shank man - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Where is the bed located within that 230x250 mm space? The printer thinks of motion in its coordinate space, and the slicer has its own coordinate space shifted (usually) relative to the printer's coordinate space. The slicer's origin is always on the corner of the bed. The printer's origin may or may not be on the bed. Take a look at this: and this: Slic3r is uby Shank man - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe You have to set the origin in Marlin and slic3r the same way. ( eg. bed center at 0,0 ) IMHO you have to set slic3r offset to +105,+105 and leave Marlin as_is. BTW: You can disable autocenter parts in slic3rs preferences, just to get you printing. Just move the part to a position, your printer can actually print it. Thank you for the suggestions, I tried both and still get the saby Shank man - CoreXY Machines
Hello, I’m absolutely stymied and need some help. I’m not sure if this is a printer, firmware or slicer issue but I’ll post my problem here. The printer is a HyperCube CoreXY. RAMPS 1.4, Marlin 1.1.0-RC7 and g-code created with Slic3R. Pronterface is the host..The motors turn in the right direction and the axes all home as they should The problem is that the printer will not center the print onby Shank man - CoreXY Machines
It does LOOK nice but doesn't the powder coat act as a thermal insulator? Especially on the heat sink. The good looks maybe a trade off for the efficiency that comes with a original E3Dby Shank man - General
Give PET tape a try. Its easier to work with than Kapton tape and when it heats up the surface turns slightly gummy. Its good for around 210c which is more than anyone needs. It solved my ABS sticking problems.by Shank man - Reprappers
in the Mk V-BV listing there is a 12 or 24 volt heater cartridge option. Further down in the body of the description it mentions that a 5.6 ohm or 6.8 ohm power resistor is included in the kit .The assembly instructions also include the resistor installation.I know the resistors work great and last for a good amount of time but the cartridges pretty much make them obsolete. or is there a priceby Shank man - General
Consider the E3D Chimera. I have had good success with it. It's a bit easier to level the nozzles than with separate hot ends. Just bring the bed to within a half millimeter of the tips and loosen the set screws that hold in the heat break so both nozzles rest on the bed and retighten the screws.by Shank man - Prusa i3 and variants
Good to hear. They really are great hot ends. I have a couple that are a few years old and have never had problem one with eitherby Shank man - General
If it increases the life span or makes the laser more efficient I would buy it. Can lasers be more efficient? I do like the extra safeguards like the key switch and estop they offer in the package. I've been using a RAMPs PWM terminal and it seems to be working okay but I've never had a laser before so I don't have anything to compare it too. I'll have to read up on the driver boards some more. Iby Shank man - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quotekd6hq I'm trying to work with a laser that I purchased off of e-bay. The laser only has a voltage input, none for TTL or PWM. When the laser is on it is at full power all the time. I am considering taking the laser apart, remove what ever driver board it has and replacing it with one that has both voltage and TTL/PWM inputs. Are there any reasons why this would not work? Current laser typeby Shank man - Laser Cutter Working Group
Great write up ! There is no denying that these budget friendly printers are more than capable of producing fine prints. I've been leaning towards buying either a Creality or Anet I3 style printer for the past few weeks. Thanks for the upgrade suggestions.by Shank man - Prusa i3 and variants