Okay great can't wait to hear about what happensby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
I certainly hope this whole thing was caused by just simply changing the wrong lineby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
Wait but why did you turn that off when you did auto-leveling? From what I understood, the only endstop related change was disabling not being able to go below your MIN endstop value (i.e. the line "#define min_software_endstops true" being made false to let you make negative z-values to tune the probe)?by NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
What do you mean by "max endstops" exactly?by NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
Okay that's good, a software issue is almost always better than a hardware issue so at least that possibility is eliminated. Now there's a short YouTube playlist (only 3 about 10-minute videos) of this guy setting up auto bed leveling with his Prusa i3 (his is from Makerfarm but the overall process should be pretty much identical for our i3x's as well) and I think he does a pretty good job goingby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
Ahh ok, yes everything you say does sound very strange, and you actually read my mind in terms of what I was going to suggest to you, which was to just re-download the latest marlin and just change what is necessary to make the printer work with manual leveling, that way if it still acts up, something went wrong hardware-wise. I look forward to hearing the results of the new firmwareby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
This is something that I've very interested in as well and will definitely attempt once I have my printer and is dialed in well enough, but to start I do have two questions for you: 1). Is this the first printer you've set up auto leveling on? (Not to try and judge experience level, just wanted to get an idea of if this is a new problem because it's the first time or if it's just a fluke with thiby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
Quoteshah123 The heated bed needs soldering the cables. The cables carry a lot of current and hence they are thick. The crimps are for connecting the end stops, and the stepper motors to RAMPS etc. Ahh, dang, was afraid of that, I only have an old soldering gun laying around, and the precision on that thing isn't great so might not work, but I guess I'll see when the printer comes. And yeah I kby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
And.......ordered! Can't wait to get it (wish I could start my own build thread as well, but with school it'll be weeks between updates ). Also just curious, does the heated bed (or anything really) absolutely REQUIRE a soldering iron? I know someone mentioned soldering cables together instead of using the included wire crimps, but if that's all that's that could theoretically need it, I'll proby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
QuoteThelandofthedave My heated bed from diy tech shop is 8.25" square. Wow, really? Dang, kinda disappointing since they said it prints 9"x9"x7" (and even though that's rounding, the millimeter equivalent is closer to 8.6" square). Oh well, still going to buy it but glad I now know to go with the 8" square glass for the bed. Thanks a lot for saving me on that one!by NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics
Wow this is an awesome thread going on here. I've followed it for the last few months and I'm grateful for the tons of information I'll have to keep in mind when I get my kit. One question though as I'm about to get my kit (and the accessories needed to run it), does anyone know if the heated bed is slightly bigger than 9 inches square? Only reason I ask is because I have the choice of 9" squareby NarimaanV - General Mendel Topics