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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Plans d'une imprimante delta - 9 years ago
Bonjour, ++JMby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: looking to build new printer, what sliding mechanisms should i use? - 9 years ago
Hi, An idea you might consider : ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Building my first RepRap! Help appreciated! - 9 years ago
Hi, There's actualy no perfect kit. Building from scratch means to be adaptive. Maybe it's a bit risky for the beginer. You'd rather follow a BOM with mostly OEM components. ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Anyone have experience of hk.bay and their kossel? - 9 years ago
Hi, QuotefreewillyAre there better printers out there? I am sure, but probably not for this price. Thanks for your friendly input. Actualy, there's some delta printers with the same specifications at a lower price here and there. OTOH, DIY versions will be even less expensive. ++JMby J-Max - General
Re: How to put ptfe tube into extruder tube. - 9 years ago
Hi, Any picture ? Be shure you own the proper tube diameter. Even if inside diameter is 2mm, there's some 3 and 4 outside diameter. If there's just a small difference that prevents you to insert the part, you can heat the flange into boiling water and cool down the insert into the freeser before instert it. Metal shape can change when overheated. Consider some parts are consumables, and keep soby J-Max - General
Re: looking to build new printer, what sliding mechanisms should i use? - 9 years ago
Hi, I agree with LarsK, and would prefer the A solution. ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Polishing 3D printed objects - 9 years ago
Hi, I nerver printed nylon, sorry. Acetone lives ABS parts fragile and erase details. With PLA, vibratory polishing leave a plushy mate surface and rounds corners too. Any sanding changes the dimensions of your parts, and may wipe out sharp details. If you want to smooth sufaces, try resins. Resins fills gaps between layer marks, leaves a smooth glass like surface. There's some existing ironinby J-Max - General
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 9 years ago
Hi, I guess you're talking about MKS Gen ? D11 D6 D5 D4 like on the Ramps... ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 printing strangely after not printing for 2 weeks - 9 years ago
Hi again, Clean your bed, do an auto bed leveling, and check nozzle height with a gauge. We need to know if auto bed is working properly. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Two colours and moving the not used hotend? - 9 years ago
Hi, This is interesting, but you will need some guides for a perfect mount/move/repeatability. Complicated and expensive IMHO. What about a pendulum swap system ? It's possible on a single shaft with one motor. Repeatability should be great because of the fixed nozzles And each unused hotend can lay by a fixed cap plate/cleaning pad to prevent extra squeeze out. ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Prusa i3 printing strangely after not printing for 2 weeks - 9 years ago
Hi, It looks like your nozzle is too close to the bed. Check printer's geometry. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Nozzle maintenance... - 9 years ago
Hi again, I print ABS @235°C and teflon does not matter. Maybe if you print nylon or PETG ? ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Big warping problem - 9 years ago
Hi, Try a print with PLA around 195°C with bed @65°C. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 9 years ago
Hi, Thx for your awnser. I did not know it was the 12" model. Makerfarm should have upscale the frame too. Leadscrews can't have a quick acceleration. Maybe it will increase printing time. Digital servo instead of stepper motors can run a very fast printer even with leadscrews. If your rich enough to afford it ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Nozzle maintenance... - 9 years ago
Hi, Instead of vegetable oil, you can consider a teflon tubing in the heat break : ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 Temperature Issue - 9 years ago
Hi, Check you have the good thermistor settings in Marlin. ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: looking to build new printer, what sliding mechanisms should i use? - 9 years ago
Hi, Quotebradleykso far from this thread i have decided to use v-slot with their carriage system i like designing in solidworks, ordering , then redesigning when i have the parts in my hand Save time and download solidworks parts @ ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Replacing MKS Gen 2Z board with Ramps 1.4 - Z Axis Motors Not Moving Properly - 9 years ago
Hi, Generaly people change Ramps for MKS gen or better. MKS Gen (actualy 1.3) is a better board than the 1.4 Ramps. You're going counterclockwise Anyway, for your Z motors, it's probably a wiring issue. Dupont connectors are known for contact failures. You probably don't need a lot of power for your driver, even to operate two motors. If your motors are rated 1.5A you should set the outputby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Big warping problem - 9 years ago
Hi, I agree with jason. You experience 3d printer's calibration is a long journey full of disapointments for the lonesome man. Be patient, and walk step by step. It'll be ok. Don't start with ABS, prefer PLA for first calibration. Extreme temperatures brings problems. You'd rather use average temperatures. 250°C is probably too high for PLA usualy it's 190-200°C with 65°C for the bed, part'sby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Best options for new printer? - 9 years ago
Hi, You're right, on a 3D printer weight less is only wanted for moving parts. For structure purpose, mass can help limit vibration transmission, but you will need a lot of mass to be effective on some frequencies. Steel's density is high, that's true, but do a printer need a high density material ? That's not the first expectation. What you want first is a ridgid and square structure. Then yoby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Larger print area ? - 9 years ago
Hi, Maybe it's not as simple as that. You cannot scale up one single component. If you want a 24" moving bed on 8mm smooth rods, there will be issues. Enlarging a surface area is enlarging weight. Weight matters on guides, structures and mecanics. Maybe you will need a better chassis and more power. ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: looking to build new printer, what sliding mechanisms should i use? - 9 years ago
Hi, Maybe I accidentaly say things more intelligent than I am. I bought for the first time 2020 profiles for my CoreXY project. The bed is 250x220mm, I know this is not standard, but dimensions comes from parts laying around in my shop. Honnestly, I thought that profiles was better. And the hardware corners not as squared as expected too. I had too much vibrations and profiles bended too easilby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 9 years ago
Hi, As I see the bended front plate on your Y axis chassis, I wonder if Makerfarm's plywood quality is cheap or if the belts are overtight ? ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: looking to build new printer, what sliding mechanisms should i use? - 9 years ago
Hi, 2020 are small extrusions, the v-type can make good guides but for structure 2040 should be better if oriented in the proper direction. If you want a good printer, don't be cheap. Each dollar saved may complicate the building/calibration process, and probably lower the print quality. Use the right component at the right place. The better component, the better prints. I tested Hiwin, LM8by J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Looking for a 'good' kit for my school's limited budget - 9 years ago
Hi, I understand schools don't have a lot of money. These days low price and quality does not often match... You worry about price but not about safety. I'm affraid safety is important when kids are around. Most of reprap kits does not care about safety. There's many ways to get an electric shock or to get burnt with repraps, because nothing is out of the touch, neither the electrics or theby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Printing in a vacuum? - 9 years ago
Hi, Sound (noise) are vibrations spread thru the air. Vibrations can spread thru solids too, and solids can act as amplifiers. Athmospheric pressure will just act on sound spread speed, but not in measurable ways for our ears. OTOH, I don't believe you could build a proper pressure enclosure to get a significant PSI difference to change drasticaly environment's properties. If your goal is toby J-Max - General
Re: Best options for new printer? - 9 years ago
Hi again, Confucius is right when he says "experience is a candle that light only your footprints" I was just arguing because RRuser was "promoting" his printer the same way in several threads as ultimate awnser. QuoteFreebird01the only instance where plywood is superior to steel is weight reduction and maybe easier to work with for someone who either is not experienced in working with metal oby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Skipping Steps in only one direction, Help pls - 9 years ago
Hi, I agree with a mecanical issue. Don't loose the belts. It must be tight, not overtight. Check the bed can move easily in both directions. This can be a belt running properly in a direction, then rubing on a side when returning. Are the puleys in line ? Is it a proper idler pulley ? This can be a bearing problem too. Some cheap LM8UU have squared balls into their ways and do not run properby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Nozzle maintenance... - 9 years ago
Hi, Probably it's a hotend cooling issue causing clogging. On the Sunhockey, the fan looks like a bit high to work properly, the good position is the fan level wih the lower wing of the hotend. Cooling the lowpart of the heatsink is crucial. I did not know Sunhockey provide genuine E3D V6 on its printers, I thought that was V5 copies... Sunhockey looks like to be a chinese clone's reseller BTWby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Prusa i3 Hephestos RAMPS & Extruder problem - 9 years ago
Hi, A reverse plug only affect motor's direction, so it should work but counterclockwise instead of clockwise. First, there's a low temperature protection. The extruder won't run until hotend is warm enough. If it still does not work, when heated, the extruder's driver has to be cheked because drivers are fragile, especialy cheap ones. Try to invert the extruder's driver with the X one, andby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants