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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: First print !!! - 9 years ago
Hi, 110°C within 5mn is pretty good for a 12v bed. More information about heatbeads (incl. MK3) ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Best options for new printer? - 9 years ago
Hi again, I enjoy what I own, but why should I be amazed ? When I give an advice to someone, I try to don't talk about my own choices, but to give different possible paths to help that someone to make up his mind. The frame is important, you're right, but steel have pro and cons. Steel conduct heat, current, is heavy and transmit a lot vibrations, which is not realy wanted for our printers.by J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: First print !!! - 9 years ago
Hi, Verify your printer elements are squared from eachother. Verify your belts tension and pulley fixtures. Then, on word : calibration ! Troubleshooting guide Extruder calibration ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Best options for new printer? - 9 years ago
Hi RRuser, You promote a lot what you bought. There's good points with it, mostly the frame maybe, the wade extruder, and bad points too, like threaded rods (M5 ?), Z couplers, LM8uu bearings... A lot of standard parts indeed. You say that kit is the best, what other printers did you experienced ? ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Fans to cool the controller? - 9 years ago
Hi, D9 (variable) is for part cooling, not for extruder cooling, which is permanent (12V AUX, near D2 diode). Red+ Black- directly on your PSU 12v output. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Extrusion Rate Changing - 9 years ago
Hi, I don't use Kisslicer, but look at something like "infill density" or so. But generic parameters should not produce overextrusion. IMHO the problem is not with parameters. The sunhockey's hotend fan looks to be too much high, for a good cooling of the V5 hotend. Overheating of the cold end can produce gear slipping, and bold extrusion. Did you setup you extrusion parameters properly ? Extby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Is this a suitable PSU replacement - 9 years ago
Hi, The bed requires at last 10A and the other parts about 7.5A. So you need at last 20A. 30A seems to be a good choice, because you may want someday a seccond extruder, and most of the kits uses this power rate too. ++JMby J-Max - General
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer - 9 years ago
Hi, Your printer looks clean, and seems to print well, congratulations ! The vibrations issues you encountered are maybe because of the printed corners, possibly not stiff enough, and maybe because of the 2020, possibly too small for that kind of architecture. ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: My final printer choice (I think!) - 9 years ago
Hi, If you can afford a pre-mounted printer, and if using a printer is more important than to build it, so the Vanhao Duplicator i3 can be an acceptable solution. QuotemsaegerIs the CoreXY substantially better than the i3? I stumbled on the c-bot on open builds and it makes me want to try and build one. The delta is a good machine too but the size is much bigger compared to the allowed printinby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Dual X axis motor - 9 years ago
Hi, I don't believe two motors may help. First, a single motor is pretty enough for that task. Possibles issues and solutions : _ flexible belt => replace with quality fiberglass armoured belt. _ wobble => replace your loose LM8UU by polymer or bronze bushings, and tight them for a no clearance fit. _ not so round idler pulleys/bad belt guidance => replace idler bearings by proper GTby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3: Ready to Buy - 9 years ago
Hi, Quoteprispin J-Max, I think a lot of us would like to use a proper tool but also have budgets that aren't unlimited. If I read you right, the Replikeo is a lower-end or basic kit with two better features - the extruder and the frame. Is it possible to buy a kit that has ACME threaded shaft Nema17 motors, better cable management, a screen, etc? Or would we be more likely to get a quality produby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My final printer choice (I think!) - 9 years ago
Hi again, Fist, I must say I own a Prusa i3 printer, made with parts from different manufacturers, with the help of the skilled guys of my local fablab. I also own a CoreXY and an actualy dismantled Delta. Two working printers are enough for my needs I agree with Steve. I helped on some Folger's kits too. Their extruder/hotend is a cheap Geetech alike, and it's realy pittyfull. It needs a mucby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 vs MendelMax and Mendel90? - 9 years ago
Hi, Well, the genuine Mendel90 kit overtake most of prusa i3 kits. To me the MendelMax is an old fashioned design. What about a SmartRapCore or a Delta ? ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Shadow Prints - 9 years ago
Hi, It's an exotic board, with drivers directly soldered on the board. It's the first time I see that kind of board. Honnestly, I don't know which board it is, and how to set it up. But I can see several things you can fix meanwhile. First, it looks like your prints does not stick to the bed properly. Try some strong hairspray (no shine, just fixative). Seccond, don't try to print too fast unby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Prusa I3: Ready to Buy - 9 years ago
Hi again, Well it's the usual way... because people don't make the right choices first. They buy a good price, not a good kit. There's two different ways to see the journey. One, you think fails are always positive, and experiencing is more important to you. Seccond, you like using a proper tool, not spending time and money to wish for proper prints. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My final printer choice (I think!) - 9 years ago
Hi, To me Folger kits are basic kits with cheap components : cheap extruder, too small motors, too small extruder fan, 5mm threaded rods Z transmission with basic coupling, no filament tensioning at the drive point, no adjustable belt tensionning... You get a good price, not a good printer. Don't be cheap or pay later for upgrades. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Best options for new printer? - 9 years ago
Hi, Start to enjoy 3D printing with PLA. ABS can be discouraging for the beginer. Aluminium frame at last 6mm MDF/brich plywood at last 12mm Steel at last 3mm acrylic 10mm or greater (acrylic is the worst choice) Try to avoid full 8mm threaded rods Y chassis, kits with front and back plates makes squaring easyer, and are more stiff. For the Z axis You want ACME threaded rod shaft Nema17 motorby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3: Ready to Buy - 9 years ago
Hi, On the prusa i3 you want ACME threaded shaft Nema17 motors. On the Replikeo I dislike cable management, endstops management, and the full M8 theaded rods Y chassis which makes sqaring problematic. There's no tensioning system for the X belt, and I don't like the simple bearings as idler pulleys. There's no screen, no card reader. The Replikeo have a wade and an aluminium frame, but it's stiby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: ABS sticking to extruder - 9 years ago
Hi, A month is a too short period of time to make any universal rule. To set your bed ways under the glass transition temperature only means the early layers are not stretchable any more. We use heating bed because we want the first layers to stay flexible. Through, maybe 85°C allows a good bound on your print surface. But these are two different things. Like you, I don't use cooling fans witby J-Max - General
Re: ABS sticking to extruder - 9 years ago
Hi, QuoteDaveOB110 seems a bit high. I print abs without problems at 85C bed. The bed must be set close to the glass transition temperature of the material. At glass transition temperature, the material is flexible but keeps its shape. Glass temperature : ABS +-105°C PLA +-63°C So 110°C is a bit high, but 85°C is realy too low. With a bed at glass transition temperature, don't cool the part tooby J-Max - General
Re: Endstop switches: mechanical or opto ? - 9 years ago
Hi, Both do the same thing, but optoswitch are more complicated to wire and to set up. Anyways, you don't want to put your switches on the way; or you may destroy them if something goes wrong. Whatever this is opto or regular. Use the type you have on the shelf. ++JMby J-Max - General
Re: How to upgrade an extruder. - 9 years ago
Hi, You can replace any component for another, it's no big deal. But you're right, you need to make your extruder work properly first. Repraps are not plug and play machines. They need time consuming calibration, and some experience to set up temperature, feed&speed settings... You don't want to try extreme values. First check everything is well assembled and work properly. The filament musby J-Max - General
Re: Filament extruder machine developement - 9 years ago
Hi, AFAIR, the most inportant point is filament cooling and spooling, to get a constant filament density and diameter. It's not as simple at it seems. I was interested by the past and I saw a lot of videos and tutorials. I noticed that filament machine builders, still have commercial spools on the desktop, even a long time after their build. Maybe the process is not as cheap, or too long, orby J-Max - General
Re: DIY heat bed - 9 years ago
Hi, Large heatbeds are usualy powered by AC current, because it's cheaper than a huge PSU and it works better. You just have to use a relay to control it. ++JMby J-Max - General
Re: Problems with my wanhao I3 - 9 years ago
Hi, Can you push the filament thru easily by hand when the temperature is around 200°C ? Is the hotend cooled enough ? Does the extruder motor runs fluently ? ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Confused by all the options - Noob seeking advice - 9 years ago
Hi, For a Prusa I3 alike printer, go for a metal frame or a thick MDF frame (at last 1/2"). For Z motors, buy directly motors with long ACME shaft. you will avoid Z wobble and couplings problems and get a better print quality. Prefer a proper wade extruder (bowden or not) than a cheap direct drive one. Choose a proper hotend too. There's some acceptable E3D copy on the market. A single V6 kit wiby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Alternative to Bowden extruder - 9 years ago
Hi, CoreXY can allow very fast moves. And speed is the seccond thing you need since your printer is stiff and square. If you add some weight on the printhead with a direct drive extruder, you reduce the max acceleration, that means you slow your printer down. I used both direct drive and bowdens. Actualy, I prefer bowdens. I do not use often flexible filaments, but I used them on my bowdens coby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Going from Prusa Heatbed MK2 to MK2b problem - 9 years ago
Hi, Did you ever tryed to enable and adjust your PID values for the printed bed ? I reach 115°C with my MK2Bs in about 8 minutes. You can insulate the rear of your heabed too, thats helps a lot. ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Z AXIS PROBLEM - 9 years ago
Hi, IMHO, you have some over-extrusion. Try to calibrate your extruder first. Then maybe your coldend turns too hot in a while. ++JMby J-Max - General
Re: ABS sticking to extruder - 9 years ago
Hi, If you have some blobs, it's maybe over extrusion. Did you set-up your extruder's preferences properly ? ++JMby J-Max - General