Hi, Don't try to jump as fast as that from extreme values. If you want to calibrate temperature to match your filament need, print a calibration tower. BUT I believe your problem is not due to extrusion temperature. Check first the bed adhesion and then do a proper extruder calibration. ++JMby J-Max - General
Hi, To me that fan extension is 100% useless. 3 possibilities : 1, the fans are for extruders, you don't want to control them. On extruders the cooling fans are meant to be 100% on to keep the cold end... cold ! So wire that fans with parallel wiring on the permanent 12v. 2, it's for cooling the part, it's pretty the same, you want to cool the whole part at the same time, not cooling the pby J-Max - General
Hi, The awnser is no. Each heating bed needs 10A for its own powering. Without heating bed it should be possible. ++JMby J-Max - General
Hi, Around 27-30 hours here (dunno exactly), started on morning, ended on afternoon the day after. No pics too. Actualy it's my ultimate print. It's just a round corner cube lamp shade around 180x180x180mm on a prusa I3, nozzle 0.25mm, layers 0.05mm, perimeters 45mm/s infill 90mm/s. Nothing fancy. Honnestly long prints are scary, you can't sleep well. Because something wrong can happen anby J-Max - General
Hi, No matter what kind of transmission you use. Even mixed. For example, the prusa I3 uses belts for the XY axis and screws for the Z axis. But, in this case, the Z axis moves only few steps ahead at each new layer, so the screw does not slow the process at all, even with a direct drive regular nema 17 motor. Any of X and Y axis needs fast moves with a lot of quick direction changes. If youby J-Max - General
Hi, Very nice ! It looks so clean. I love the covers. ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, All you may wanna know is here : ++JMby J-Max - General
Hi again. Under 1.3Nm you won't have any issue vith a GT2 belt. Seems like you need manufacturer's data to make up your mind. So just ask your provider or a manufacturer. ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi again. Forget theory a minute, get that small aluminium extrusion in hand, feel it, measure by yourself. Theory is a perfect world where metal could win everything especialy if you compares the wrong parts. Please read me again. I did not compare that extrusion to a 20x20x300mm MDF piece, but to a 19mm pannel. I mounted a square 300mm module20 extrusion structure by the past, thinking this wby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
He, he ! I hate coffee anyways ! The simpler, the better : one machine, one function. LarsK, I don't believe on a CoreXY CNC mill mostly because the interest of CoreXY is speed, and a CNC mill don't realy need fast moves, even for wood machining. Through, a belt system on that type of machines should be very strong to hold the machining forces. And you should need huge motors too, or a big rby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, Misumi is a serious brand too. Actualy, it's more expensive than Hiwin for the same quality. Look at Hiwin documentation on their website, you'll get the same kind of informations. Talking about the build material, don't think aluminium cannot expand too. Pannelwood is not like solid wood. It may not change as much as you think. If you apply some finishing, it will be sealed and won't moveby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, That's true Olaf. But first of all, a screw is a reduction. The larger pitch, the less reduction, the lower definition, the higher speed. All is linked. But acceleration will still be faster with a belt if you use a regular nema 17 motor. Quote691175002 You can hit essentially zero backlash just by lightly spring-loading two nuts. This strategy is sometimes used in machine tools but is limiby J-Max - General
Hi again, Sometimes, I must admit, dentists are right We can't awnser your question. Which screw ? Which nut ? Which manufacturer ? Which manufacturing tolerance ? it could be +-0.02 or +-0.2mm for a low quality item. Ask your provider, he will know better than us. If you use a 0.5 of bigger nozzle, the initial play does not realy matter. But if you want to use 0.3 or 0.25 nozzles for your pby J-Max - General
Hi, It depends of the nut employed. Some Derlin nuts have a play compensation : You must find a way to avoid the play, with a spring system or whatever. ++JMby J-Max - General
Hi again, Look at the investment. That mini printer works fine with acrylic, for its dimensions. I mean much better than a Prusa I3 acrylic, with its building volume more than 4 times larger ! But to have a first contact with 3D printing, with a plug and play machine around 150€, it's not a bad idea. You can keep it as a secondary printer or sell it easily. I mean you can't design a proper pby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi again, Well precision does not comes from your building material but from your guides alignment and the lower play they allow. If you're more confident with aluminium, and own the tools to work it properly, it's ok. To get a flat support, you can buy full aluminum flat profile, but at last 10mm thick. It's better than aluminium extrusions module20 alike, even if it's a bit heavyer. Those yby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, I'm interested with this build, whatever open or closed source it is. There's already plenty of closed source builds on this forum anyways. But I understand what AndrewBCN says in a way. Even if "useless" is too much and exploration is always exciting. Large printers exists (concrete, etc.), but it's not about FDM. We know FDM prints usualy takes hours on our small printers. We already kby J-Max - General
Hi, To me, a wooden box may be stiffer than a module20 aluminium structure, and you already have an enclosure. But it's maybe a question of look. Through, the SmartRapCore have 6mm rods, which is a too small diameter IMHO, even for the 220x220 regular print area. Some users upgraded to 8mm. I can't imagine a 300x300 print area may work well with 6mm rods. Through, maybe the output expectationsby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, Well, in the CoreXY desing, the printhead don't move along the Z axis. So that XY mobile part is very stiff and dead flat. Only the bed is moving verticaly. You can apply a coreXY to any printer. But keep in mind the overall dimensions of a CoreXY printer is pretty larger than the bed, because you need some extra room for the motors and the belt/pulley system, and also for the bed lift. Ifby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, What about a simple large sheet of paper sticked to the wall buy some remount spray glue ? Cheap and efficient. And you'll move out with a roll of souvenirs. ++JMby J-Max - General
Hi, Check your wires from the board to the bed, especialy soldering. You need strong contact points. Through, the PSU is chinese. Check if it delivers the right amperage. The down side bed insulation helps the bed temperature to rise quicker. But you should be able to reach at last 105°C with a simple bed. Last, adjust your PID setting for the bed. ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Hi, If the ramps works fine (no red led lightened permanently), it's ok. If there's a permanent led, change the corresponding transistor. Be sure your hotend parts are not twisted or damaged by the overheat. Be sure to secure the heat resistor and the thermistor to the hotend with Kapton tape. 8.5A seems light to me for a 3D printer. Mine is 25A. With the 1.4 Ramps board, you can power both yoby J-Max - General
Hi, There's no full colour FDM printer. E3D's Kraken uses 4 colours, but no gradient between colours. FDM technology is not realy good for colour mixing, because the control is limited and the waste is important. But software is the most important part, with a lot of time consuming from design to print preparation. If you realy need a full colour printer, have a look to paper layering printerby J-Max - General
Hi, I mostly agree with LarsK. You can dig deeply into technical specifications of each component. If you do so, be aware engineering a new printer will probably takes you years. Through, you will never be shure to get the best design and the best possible component. It's just experimentation. That means, errors, adjustements, money... My advices are : Don't be cheap or prepare to spend moreby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, Keep in mind a CNC mill is slightly different from a 3D printer. A 3D printer needs to be fast and there's no resistance at the head. A CNC mill don't need to be very fast because of the feed and speed needed by the cutting bit, that requires relatively slow motion. So, any belt system is not the best option. You need to oversize the belts to prevent any play, you need a kind of reductionby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Hi, IMHO, smooth rods are not the good choice for large printers, because the deflection is too important and that bearings have some play too. A CoreXY is meant to run fast, especialy with a large build area. So you will need the best possible accuracy to get perfect prints at high speed. I think you'd rather fix a single linear rail on an aluminium profile for X, and 2 linear rails on the ovby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Bonjour, Je me pose la question de savoir quels sont les débouchés pour une I3 à 550€ alors qu'on s'en fait livrer un kit pour moins de 350 euros ailleurs ? Avec Internet, la concurrence ne promêt-elle pas d'être trop dure à moins de s'aligner ? A moins également d'être très très bien référencé sur les sites Internet aussi. As-tu déjà testé ta capacité de vendre/fournir des choses moins complexby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone