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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Quelle 3D pour mon budget ? - 9 years ago
Re, Ah, Vannes, c'est presque dans mon coin, par ma fenêtre je vois l'autre bout du 56 Sauf erreur vous n'avez pas de CNC, et votre laser c'est quelle puissance/format ? Très franchement tu peux atteindre la qualité d'impression de la Replicator2 avec ta future machine. Il te faudra une bonne précision pour la production des pièces mécaniques. De ce que tu écris, je comprends qu'il vaut mieuxby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Quelle 3D pour mon budget ? - 9 years ago
Bonjour, Intéressant ça, c'est quel fablab ? Si tu es lié à un fablab, tu n'auras pas de meilleure imprimante que celle que tu sourceras toi même à partir d'une BOM. Aucun kit n'est bon à 100% ni ne convient à 100% à tes besoins. A ton fablab tu pourras imprimer tes pièces, sans doute découper ta frame, et bénéficier de conseils. Si vraiment tu ne veux pas profiter des facilités de ton Fablabby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
Hey guys, The Psique weak point are the threaded rods on Z and the 16bits board/A4988 drivers... Otherhand it have a good steel frame and a good geared extruder with a lite6 hotend ! ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
So true ++JM PS. Thanks for the link, I put it here if there's an interest for anybody :by J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Une Imp3D 100% recyclée - 9 years ago
Bonjour, La tige filetée n'est pas obligatoire. Dans les copieurs, tu as aussi des petits nema 17 qui ont une réduction en nylon (les 3 en haut à droite de la photo ci-dessous) : (les amortisseurs comme sur celui en haut a gauche sont bons à prendre également) Du coup tu peux les employer dans un Z à courroie dans le style de celui d'AndreasL : ++JMby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Prusa I3 - 9 years ago
Hi guys @ RRuser, it sounds like a bad engineering issue. This happens when the pitch of the screw overtake what the magnet of the motor can hold. As AudaciousTuddle said, a proper calculation of the screw or better motor choice should have been done. [email protected] there were one or two things that you would upgrade or change on this BOM what would they be and why? Actualy,by J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
Hi, Good ! Can you share the EU link ? The MK10 extruder is the weak point of the Wanhao. Otherhand, it should be enough to print your first parts and maybe print better extruders later. ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Types of linear guides and mounting options - 9 years ago
Hi, SKF is a trustable brand ++JMby J-Max - Mechanics
Re: Best bang for money? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, Bobyni, I will honnestly tell you what I think about your extruder, and tell you why. 1/ direct drive extruders are not exlusively good or bad. What we know is direct drive likes high torque motors, obviously. I'm not sure, but I believe yours is under 0,4 Nm (<60oz.in). To me it's not enough. Note direct drive extruders, even with 0.9° motors offers a lower resolution than gearedby J-Max - General
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
Hi, Actualy, I don't know what's your location. I did not know that will be that expensive for you. Sorry. About price, some $200 printers do not worth the money, neither a $2500 Makerbot... It's just about the money you agree to spend. We know some DIY <$300 printers make pretty good prints. So what's realy important? First want to avoid worst buiding choices (or worst components, that's tby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
Hi noogie, Basic wood-working skills is just what you need to build your printer's frame and have a good frame at low cost. If you can connect two wires together with a soldering iron and heat shrink a tubing on it, your printer won't ask for more. I guess you can screw bolts together, and your work area is just fine. So you're far to be the worst builder If you want to buy a ready 3D printer,by J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 - 9 years ago
Hi, You can find a lot of guides, here's a trustable one : You've got a lot of youtube build videos too. My question about your skills is because you can save some money if you're able to build a squared wood box frame. A wood box frame can be even better that a single aluminium sheet frame. If someone of your family owns a metalshop, you should get a steel frame and the rods at no/low cost. Dby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Types of linear guides and mounting options - 9 years ago
Hi guys, Dalius98, have a look on Ebay.de with the keyword "linearführung". I bought INA, Rexroth, Igus, linear guides at pretty reasonable prices. Sometimes there's used expensive ones discounted. They're still pretty good for hobbyist. Even if german post is always a bit expensive, it's inside EU and you should not pay duty. ++JMby J-Max - Mechanics
Re: Best bang for money? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, Bobyni, your printer have at last ACME Z rods. It's a good point. Your pictures are so dark and small I can't realy figure out what kind of extruder/hotend you own. So it's hard to tell what's good or bad, and tell you why. You don't need a year to make up your mind about acrylic frames. Just heat your bed at 105°C temperature for a medium print of 10 hours, and then let's talk again aby J-Max - General
Re: Itopie c'est parti ! - 9 years ago
Bonjour, Aie, désolé pour toi ! Tu devrais pouvoir le recoller à la colle PU. Tu met bien sous serre-joints et au bout de 4h ce sera aussi solide qu'avant. ++JMby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Best bang for money? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, Start simple and upgrade is time and money consuming. Even if every component is important, avoid acrylic frames for any printer (except box type mini printers). For Prusa i3 look for : aluminium frame, ACME screws (or preferabily motors with ACME threaded shafts), and a proper E3D alike hotend. Actualy I builded a Prusa i3 dual extruder BOM for a member : QuoteJ-Max To work together fby J-Max - General
Re: Prusa I3 - 9 years ago
Hi Eric, To work together faster; I have created your online BOM. I will organize the BOM, add missing components, and replace links by what I consider more appropriate. You can modify anything and people here can give links to their good deals or argue about some choices we made, or about missing things maybe. Any help is welcome. I desagree with some of your choices, especialy the dual hotendby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
Ok, First, we need to know the tools you own and how skilled you are. Can you describe your toolbox ? Define your skills, say what's the best DIY thing you've done by the past ? Do you have a workshop, a garage, or a room to build ? Then we need to define your budget. Then, we will build a BOM, and try to put the best component at the best price to each line. I wait for your awnsers to get a mby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: diver drv8825 voltage minimum moteur - 9 years ago
Bonjour, La bonne tension de sortie est 1.92v, tu peux être un peu en dessous si ça chauffe trop. Tu en as peut-être déjà une, mais au cas où, une ventilation sur les drivers est une bonne assurance vie pour eux ++JMby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: profilés Tslot (ou Vslot) - 9 years ago
Bonjour, Récemment un ami a usiné des Motedis en V à l'aide d'une simple défonceuse montée sous table, une fraise à bois en V et des presseurs. Résultat bon. Et c'est bien moins cher que vsloteurope. ++JMby J-Max - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Re: Best Z-axis configuration? - 9 years ago
Hi guys Sure ! Here's the mount (with 625 2RS this time but I upgraded to MF105zz recently for the Z axis) : Don't juge on the print quality, those prototype parts was printed with cheap filament at 220mm.s That's what I get @ 120mm.s : QuoteEdvardasBut you do not have an adjustable bolt that touches an endstop at Z0? It is used (on both my prusa i3 and corexy) to alter a distance between aby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Prusa I3 - 9 years ago
hi guys, RRuser, you mean metric threaded rods vs ACME leadscrews ? ++JMby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 - Kit purchase and upgrade? - 9 years ago
Hi, QuotenoogieThe kit you recommended costs 650$ (with shipping, before tax) and the kit from build23dprinter costs 600Euro (with shipping, before tax) Hmm, probably the price is different for your country. Are you from UK ? Here that kit with shipping is under 260€. Quotenoogiethis has linear bearings, 2020 profies, but small print area and RAMPS... Unfortunately, yet another "no perfect kby J-Max - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: E3D Cyclops Issues - 9 years ago
QuoteMake_3D Lol thanks J-Max, I had already done that and enabled the mixing extruder and added the second extruder, I had also told repetier host that it had a mixing head which gave me 2 extruders and only 1 heater / temperature, the issue I am having (which brought me here) is that despite the fact I can select between extruders 1 and 2 no matter which one I select they both end up moving, thby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: E3D Cyclops Issues - 9 years ago
Hi guys Quotesungod3kI can at least imagine that random amounts of hips around the main material layer could be washed away by the solvent and depending on where these hips amounts are placed is does more or less harm. When two filaments share the same melting block, when you extrude filament A you get a mix between A and B materials. So the Cyclops configuration is not the good one when you wanby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: Which one is stronger ? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I don't find any Tom Sanders video about 3d printing on youtube. Are you refering to Thomas Salanderer plastic destruction test ? As far as I remember it was about PLA vs ABS vs Bridge. ++JMby J-Max - Reprappers
Re: 3d printers on aliexpress - 9 years ago
Hi guys, Definitely acrylics is rubbish. Let's be honnest. Sellers use it because it's cheap and cheap to be lasercut. It don't need any post production treatment and it's light so they can save money on shipping. But, it can't make a good printer frame because it's too bendable. You should at last use 12mm acrylic frames to get the properties of a 3mm aluminium sheet. Every vendor claims "hby J-Max - General
Re: Best bang for money? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, QuoteAnthonisTrouble is that there are hundreds of single extrusion printers around and its even harder to short list selection. More likely double extrusion will mean new improvements and boards which is what everyone is expecting. And it does sound nice to have two different materials printed at same time. Yes there will be problems for sure, but I guess even with single extrusion peopby J-Max - General
Re: Best corexy kit to get - 9 years ago
Hi, I believe there's no CoreXY kit at comparable price actualy. Especialy if you can make the box by yourself (it's pretty easy). ++JMby J-Max - CoreXY Machines
Re: Best bang for money? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I don't like any of them. Acrylic sucks in both Delta or Prusa printers. Warning : dual extrusion are not for newbies, you multiply issues by 2. As they both have rubbish hotends, it will be a nightmare. Definitely. There's hundred of "what should I buy" topics. You'd rather read them first. ++JMby J-Max - General