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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: glass bed not reaching temperature at the surface - 9 years ago
glass is 3mm, heat spreader is 2.6mm thick aluminum. only the vertical edge is exposed.by shadowphile - Reprappers
Re: glass bed not reaching temperature at the surface - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist If a nozzle crash occurs with an aluminum plate, it may scratch. Scratches are not an issue- you're covering the plate with a layer of kapton tape anyway. If a crash tears the tape and scratches the bed underneath, you replace the tape and you're good to go. What aluminum won't do is shatter into tiny shards that will end up in your bearings, skin, and maybe eyes. Alumiby shadowphile - Reprappers
Re: crazy idea for stopping ABS warping - 9 years ago
Can't argue with most of your points, although that Fortus machine is WAY above the cost and performance I expect from my table-top Kossel. There seem's to be little advantage to a liquid-bath. (I supposed I was inspired by liquid-cooled computers favored by over-clocking enthusiasts.)by shadowphile - Reprappers
Re: Mini differential IR height sensor board - 9 years ago
Glad the heat bed isn't an issue. I guess for near-IR the bed would have to be blazing hot. Yeah, I have John's controller board, even tweaked the code to compensate for preloading so the sensitivity doesn't drop as preload goes up (which works well btw). The FSRs are mounted on a tiny acrylic disk for back support (because of the border thickness issue), and a fairly hard rubber disk on top toby shadowphile - For Sale
Re: crazy idea for stopping ABS warping - 9 years ago
I already stated the obvious issues that DO make this a fairly complex and probably impractical approach. That red print looks pretty good, especially for a non-enclosed job. What parameters of your machine allows that level of success? BTW, FYI I have a delta. .. As for the liquid-drag comment; I imagine the head is above the liquid and the liquid level would be maintained to some mm below theby shadowphile - Reprappers
Re: Mini differential IR height sensor board - 9 years ago
How does your design not fail with heated beds? It seems like the background IR would swamp your sensors. Just curious. I am ready to dump my FSRs.by shadowphile - For Sale
crazy idea for stopping ABS warping - 9 years ago
There is no new idea under the sun, it seems, so this has probably already been discussed. It's somewhat inconvenient but it occurred to me if I could immerse the bulk of my ABS part in a high-temp bath of a suitable liquid (silicone oil?) while am printing then there should be no warp at all. The main issues are trapped liquid in parts with internal cavities, material compatibility, adhesion loby shadowphile - Reprappers
Re: glass bed not reaching temperature at the surface - 9 years ago
@digital_dentist: Thanks. I occasionally see a metal bed but they are so rare I haven't given it much thought except: ..'compared to glass, metal is soft and during a nozzle crash will both scratch and catch on the plate; also when I need to scrape something off with a metal blade (which is preferred because it harder than plastic and won't melt on a hot bed''). ..'Most metal expands like crazyby shadowphile - Reprappers
glass bed not reaching temperature at the surface - 9 years ago
Hi. I have a heat-spreader plate directly under the glass and I know it is reaching 100 degrees because water applied to the exposed edge of the plate will boil. But the surface of the glass bed is way below that. I pushed the to bed to 130 and I still couldn't boil water on the bed surface. Is this normal and if so how do others adapt? thanksby shadowphile - Reprappers
Re: what is wrong with using the software endstops to auto-level the bed? - 9 years ago
wow, that was a quick reply! My solution is not meant to be a fix-all calibration but more of a tool to manually dial in a flat and level bed. It is only about 8 new lines of code in the firmware to take the precise measurements of the probing and automatically adjust the offset values. My Pronterface macro uses that function to probe at the four key spots. Manually doing this was tedious, slowby shadowphile - Delta Machines
what is wrong with using the software endstops to auto-level the bed? - 9 years ago
I have a standard ATMega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 board. Leveling most recently was my biggest headache and the G29 and G30 commands seem to have constant issues and don't work for me, which I think stems from their sophistication. Mechanically I have ensured that my frame is rigid, square, and symmetric with accurately placed limit-switches and fairly level bed by using a $40 set of anodized extrudby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: How to offset the X Y values in Marlin for Rostock? - 9 years ago
It might be pointless at this late date, but I use Marlin. (numbers are examples only) 1)Use 'M666 X-2.3' to adjust the X-tower end-stop offset by -2.3mm. 2)Same for the Y and Z towers. You can mix and match any that you want. 3)These three offsets MUST be negative for some reason. 4)This means the max z-height must be smaller than actual height so that the negative offset values will 'pull' iby shadowphile - Delta Machines
What do you think of this pre-built extruder drive for 3mm? - 9 years ago
I already ordered it today because it looks like it solves all my attempts to get a reliable 3mm-based Mini Kossel to work fast (or at all!), but I thought I would share it out. It is somewhat expensive but at this point I have so much invested in 3mm that it is still cheaper than converting to 1.75.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
ABORTED: Re: looking for a 624uu bearing.. - 9 years ago
I give up, this is too messy and difficult designing my own extruder, gathering the hardware, CADing and printing the parts, etc. I found a good solution on ebay: link to ebay extruder. It's a little pricey, but in the end may be the cheapest solution for me, who has been struggling forever to get a 3mm Kossel Mini kit to work (a kit I bought as a newbie; see the MakerGeeks Kossel Mini - Junk! tby shadowphile - General
Re: looking for a 624uu bearing.. - 9 years ago
Dang, got all excited! But these are not 624UU (they are ZZ) and don't have the outside groove. Thanks for looking though, really appreciate the effort! I think another name for the 624UU is U624ZZ, I'm not sure though. Its funny that lots of Chinese companies offer these but nobody in the US. I think there are some high-end bearing-specific companies that might have something similar but thosby shadowphile - General
Re: looking for a 624uu bearing.. - 9 years ago
can't find anything on VXB. 624uu is the only size I can find that will fit a 3mm filament in a bowden tube extractor. I have too much invested in 3mm to change sizes and a 3mm filament requires a high amount of force in a bowden and a flat bearing might flatten the filament too much with the higher than average clamping force required. Parts from China take so long and I can't afford to sit onby shadowphile - General
looking for a 624uu bearing.. - 9 years ago
Every single lead I follow ends up back in China... I just need one; there MUST be a US supplier but China floods the markets so bad these days it's getting harder and harder to find non-Chinese parts. I wish I could google with a check-box that indicates 'but not from China' I've checked a number of robot parts places but no luck yet. thanksby shadowphile - General
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
..I think the only things I have left from the original kit are the aluminum extrusions and the motors. Oh, and the glass bed. What a waste of $800! I used a local makerspace's drill press so drilling out those 45 M4 holes to M5 in the RobotDigg vertex parts went from a headache to a trivial task. This new chassis is a tank! I thought about upgrading it to a larger width while it was all tornby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
I received my RobotDigg vertex parts today. They are fairly good looking, only a very very slight hole offset on one part of the top pieces. It will be very comforting to have a no-compromise rigid metal chassis. But..I am very annoyed that it is designed for M4 screws. My Kossel mini used M3 or M5 on everything. I can't run to the local hardware store and buy M4 t-slot nuts (I'm stocked onby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: crazy idea: arm-mounting the extruder... for the Diamond Hotend nozzle - 9 years ago
What about the filaments that feed the extruders? They will have to flex with an extruder that never sits still. That works on a cartesian but could be really awkward for a delta.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
looking for air-tripper style mechanism - 9 years ago
Hi all. I can't print my own stuff yet so I was hoping to find a for-sale pre-built cold-end extruder: ...works on 3mm filament ...uses a MK8 hobb (or can adapt) ...airtripper-style adjustable pinching force ...uses direct-drive NEMA17 motor with 5mm shaft. ...all-metal design? not required, but I can dream! I have the motor and the MK8 hobb, but I don't have time for the DIY (printed parts andby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
dc42, how long did it take to get those RobotDigg parts (and are you not in the US?)by shadowphile - Delta Machines
looking for metal vertex parts - 9 years ago
I want a plug-n-play solution to assembling a square kossel-mini frame. I also want the general improvement in stiffness. I was recently informed of parts from a China company called RobotDigg but the shipping can take a long time and personal anecdotes revealed several quality problems. I do not want to be forced to file away at a part to get it to fit, it defeats my purpose. So..can anybody poby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
Quotedc42You can certainly get Ninjaflex in 1.75mm. I've read that trying to push 1.75mm Ninjaflex through a bowden tube is too difficult to control the feed (at least the softer varieties). I can believe it. Quotedc42 One of the nice things about the delta design is that you can easily use a large bed without having to worry about how to move it, or how to power the bed heater - you can use mby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
QuoteDark Skunk ... I replaced the extruder mechanism with a more powerful one (it's a beast)... What did you actually find? I'd like to look at your beast. Another junky piece I have to replace. In my kit the pivoting part of the plastic clamp had a hole much too large for the screw necessary to go through into the stepper motor, which is where ALL the stress is. Really? Rotate all that hby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
Thanks everybody for all the cool-headed sympathy and feedback; my boiling point has risen to productive levels again. Quotedc42 1. Towers not quite perpendicular to the bed. In my case, there was no slop in the corner pieces, but I wasn't careful to ensure that the vertical and horizontal extrusions were perpendicular when i assembled it. Also, I had to hammer the extrusions through the cornerby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: MakerGeeks.com Mini Kossel Kit - Junk! - 9 years ago
I am SO close to taking the whole assembly and tossing $1200 in the garbage. I have invested many months of re-engineering and probably another $500 and I still can't get a decent print, if at all. I bought it last October! The entire spider assembly, every part, has been replaced with better or self-designed parts. It has become the biggest waste of time and money I have ever encountered in mby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: Delta arms with traxxas joints - 9 years ago
retracted, found Herceks link to calibration errors.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: Delta arms with traxxas joints - 9 years ago
actually, at an extreme angle, say 10 degrees and an arm length of 200 mm, just for clarity, then one stepper motor step results in only 18% movement laterally, so just based on that the precision should be at max near the edges. But..other factors can come into play: trying to go too fast near the edges may require the stage to move faster than it can. Also, there might be some rounding errorby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Re: Delta arms with traxxas joints - 9 years ago
On the other hand, setting your maximum angle to 30 to 40 degrees instead of 20 will allow you to run at higher speeds at the edges because the opposing carriage isn't trying so hard to convert vertical motion into horizontal. Of course that means using longer arms, which will allow a little more flex, which means using slightly heavier rods, which increases the load on the motors. YMMV.by shadowphile - Delta Machines