I measured the outside width of the three towers, down around the base. They differ within a .5mm range. I also plotted 3 lines pointing from the center toward each tower and they differ within a mm range! i am going to try to physically straighten them out but in the meantime can someone tell me how to interpret and use the individual tower adjustments.(radius and position). thanksby shadowphile - Delta Machines
thanks for the feedback,all of you. I know of the extra parameters to adjust (RichCattell firmware) although I'm not sure how to manually calculate them. BTW, I removed the nozzle and stuck an ink-pen into the heat-break, held in place by the filament pushing on the opposite end. Makes a great quicky plotter. I just manually jog the tip around with Pronterface on a piece of paper, takes me secoby shadowphile - Delta Machines
I finally have a flat bed and perfect scale on the X and Y axes. but when I measure the diagonals they are off about 2mm on 100mm square. That would be about 1.4 mm of lean to one side. thanksby shadowphile - Delta Machines
I just noticed today (2/9) that Justin apparently been (silently) paying attention. For the same price he released an upgraded version in January: It specifically addresses MANY of the issues I encountered. I just wish I did not buy all the problems before the fixes: -Much bigger power supply, supposedly enough current even drive the optional heat-bed. (Makergeeks bed needs 13 amps alone!) It lby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Thank for the response. I have read much talk about how humidty is bad and how to get rid of it but I cant find much about WHY? Specifically, I have jamming problems despite all my care so I thought maybe water can do that.by shadowphile - Printing
Im having feed resistance slowly get worse and worse during a print until I can hardly feed it by hand. I have been using ABS just laying about and see steam from the extruded plastic. Can water in the filament contribute to jamming?by shadowphile - Printing
Thanks for the accuracy details! I just ordered a rod kit (OMG, did I just say 'kit' ) and I plan on using drill-bit rod blanks to align the rod-ends to make them spot-on.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
@iira, thanks for the reply. I want to build some 'perfect' rods with precise length and no play. Despite the new effector platform I just installed, it is STILL visibly tilted. So now I am seriously thinking the rods are also a problem. I also added rubber bands to my rods, just to keep them from vibrating like crazy. I suppose they might help the play some but I imagine under momentary strby shadowphile - Delta Machines
A smaller filament would lessen the stresses 3mm causes but I'm still stuck with poor sloppy parts. Although smaller filaments have their own issues, the thought has occurred to me to step down to 1.75mm, except I've already invested enough in this path. (like $100 to replace the junk hot-end I received with a good one from e3d; $70 to print a newly designed effector base to replace the junky onby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Hi. I have a Kossel Mini that I bought in kit form. It has turned out to be inferior in many aspects and I am selectively upgrading. I am looking at new effector-rods because mine have noticeable play and especially because my delta is setup for 3mm filament and that puts a lot of torquing stress on the effector. (ie lateral tilting) My rods came pre-assembled and are probably cheap imports.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
Well I DID ask for feedback! But I thought I had selected a decent 450W supply because I know that PC supplies can be vastly under-powered compared to their rating (I paid $45 for it). And the 750W was a Corsair. I'm just used to buying OEM supplies for work (and I use them for general purpose applications and never thought of them as 'LED' drivers; guess that has been a rising consumer applicby shadowphile - Developers
I've noticed my MakerGeeks Kossel Mini kit frame doesn't seem very stiff AT ALL. Probably the best bang for the buck to stiffen it up would be a large diagonal strut on one of the sides, from top to bottom. Even better would be a sheet of acrylic because then the entire sheet contributes to diagonal forces. I was thinking those corner braces would also help a lot, although I was picturing heaby shadowphile - Delta Machines
I've gone through 3 supplies now: original I had laying around, a used gamer-grade 750W, and a new 450W. They all died on me shortly after use. My max (steady) current draw is about 16 Amps for the heat bed and one hot-end, plus the motion stuff. The 750W was rated for 60 amps! It still died though, partly I think because I may have accidently shorted the output, although were no sparks or anby shadowphile - Developers
Yah, me too. Im one of the posters on Reddit. 4 months and many upgrades and I STILL cant get a fast nor reliable run. Plus as a customer I just had one too many really WTF moments and gave up trying to get support. Something going on there that is just not right. I returned some 1.75mm filament I ordered before I realized the kit was 3mm filament, and 9 days after delivery was confirmed by theby shadowphile - Delta Machines
It seems to me a quick method to measure the exact amount of retraction is to release the filament from the extruder hob so that it will push in and out manually. Make sure the hot end is hot and primed and ready to extrude, then shut it off and let it solidify. Push it in manually until it stops (all movement is now lash). Mark the point where the filament enters the extruder feed mechanism (by shadowphile - Delta Machines
@jmf: I'm bummed too. I've been wrestling with this stuff since October. I finally got myself running at 60+ mm/sec but I'm going in circles trying to calibrate this thing, especially since I can't seem to get the auto-bed-leveling to work using G29 or G30 in either RichCattel or Johan firmwares. I'm also running 3mm filament, which wasn't my choice and does not seem to be a good choice for aby shadowphile - Delta Machines
oops, never mind. Apparently the version string in the code is not updated.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
sorry, I've just starting tackling this issue. first of all, where is v1.04? I've downloaded the GIT files from RichCattel Marlin but the version string in Marlin_main.cpp says 1.0.0. In this version, G29 does probing moves but doesn't seem to affect the native positioning. When I investigate the code, the bed_positions[] arrary gets filled during G29 but there is no reference to it anywhere elby shadowphile - Delta Machines
I'm only now starting to use the bed more, so maybe the columns change or there is no waiting when the bed is not enabled. Dang, looks like I will have to code-crawl. That's ok when I'm not actually trying to get anything doneby shadowphile - Reprappers
I'm used to a slightly different column of numbers when it is waiting for the temperature, those end with a 'w?'by shadowphile - Reprappers
I'm glad I"m not alone, cause it means something real and not something bonehead on my partby shadowphile - Delta Machines
This just started and I don't know what it means. When I click Print, the console says the job is starting, followed by an endless column readouts, with no count-down and no movement at all. ... T:220.00 E:0 B:69.1 T:220.00 E:0 B:69.1 T:220.00 E:0 B:69.1 T:220.00 E:0 B:69.1 T:220.00 E:0 B:69.1 T:220.00 E:0 B:69.1 .. Obviously the extruder and bed temperatures, not sure what the E is for. The sby shadowphile - Reprappers
Hi All. I have a Kossel Mini, RAMPS1.4, RichCattel Marlin firmware, and Pronterface. I've finished with a z-probe upgrade using 3 FSRs. They feed an auto-detection PCB I bought from tridprinting that sends to the Arduino. It seems quite sensitive when I push on the bed, so that appears ok. I manually move and examine the bed offset at various locations. The bed is flat/level to within .5mm. Iby shadowphile - Delta Machines
I want to generate some 2D patterns where I have more control of the actual nozzle path, rate, extrusion, etc. I could make a 3D design that has very thin width and height and assume the slicer will path it out correctly but that seems dumb. Any kind of software out there for this? Something that might take a dxf or svg file for the path and allow me to set dynamics like speed and extrusion thiby shadowphile - General
dc42, I am using the stock e3d design, which comes with an injection-molded fan mount. The closest cooling fin disk is not even warm to the touch. I did measure the tube ID and it is 3.2mm. The filament is about 2.9, give or take. This seems kind of loose, but maybe it is supposed to be. It seems like if the filament is retracted far enough it will pull the molten plastic up into the heat-breaby shadowphile - Delta Machines
Just to be clear, I bought this commercially as a kit instead of proven model because I wanted tinkerability. But it came with a number of (bad) mods and I'm stuck with 3mm. That being said, it want to try the flexible materials which virtually require 3mm for Bowdens anyway. But I does seem like the original Kossel was a 1.75 machine. This has all been very juicy info and I thank everbody! ..by shadowphile - Delta Machines
Hey Thanks Paul, thats a great troubleshooting list. It's nice to know I am not even close to my printer's limits. I know ABS is supposed to be easier but I would prefer to have access to working PLA, plus I dont have a good thermal setup for that yet.by shadowphile - Delta Machines
Hi all and thanks for previous answers that have helped me get my prints working. My first machine, bought a Kossel kit that had been redesigned (poorly) for redesigned for 3 mm. So..I'm getting PLA prints finally actually got some usuable parts. I've optimized as much as possible: e3d hotend, close-fit ptfe bowden tube, Mk8 extruder gear. But even running 210 degrees I cant seem to go above abouby shadowphile - Delta Machines
triplanedave: it sounds like you are running 1.75mm filament. If so, you still felt it neccessary to go to a geared motor? I'm also toying with going the FSR route, after looking at someobody's setup last night. When you say 'tapered', you mean you sharpened it like a pencil, or reamed the inside out like a hollow cone?by shadowphile - Delta Machines
yeah Paul, I don't see a future with this setup. The Bowden is cool and a cleverly simple and cheap mechanism, but I don't like the idea of using the filament as the force-transmitting mechanism, and it's worse with the newer spongy materials. Operation of the machine should not have to compensate for the material, ideally. I'm toying with how I might put the feed-grip on the extruder platformby shadowphile - Delta Machines