I have considered going bowden with my V6 because the wades was just so heavy and it bounces around on the x carriage. But just halving jerk in firmware took care of a lot of that problem so if you run into a lot of shaking in your x axis try turning down jerk first. If I end up going back to bowden(I tried it before the wades with a V5 and direct drive and it was not working) I will be figuriby zerodameaon - Reprappers
Ahh, yeah might have been an earlier firmware issue, but I do agree with you, ABL does not feel worth it to me in terms of setup and calibration. It always has me worried that I am going to not be paying attention one day on a print start and the probe does not come down and everything breaks.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
Huh, I have not had this issue, that would kind of defeat the purpose of auto bed leveling. I have not tried 45* but I did mess around with a good 15-20 and the whole object leaned to one side. This guy does not have that issue either.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
Are you saying that if my bed is at 45* toward X min my 150mm tall print of the Washington monument when set on a flat level surface in front of the printer it will lean 45* toward x max?by zerodameaon - Reprappers
Superglue is how I fix stuff I break. Seems to work just fine.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
They have different properties, ABS needs to be kept hot(no cooling fan) but PLA can have the fan going full speed during bridging so it cools before it droops to much. I can bridge in both PLA and ABS, but PLA just comes out looking slightly better due to cooling fans, though bridging infill you should have no problems with either as it is not that far to bridge. It is possible that you are undeby zerodameaon - Printing
Both for the fact that the nut hole might be to small and slightly misshapen as well as to hold the nut because the plastic cools around the nut. If you use adhesive do not get any in the threads.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
Cura does that same stuff to me, you do not have enough top/bottom thickness if you are using the defaults. I do 3x my layer height for top/bottom thickness and it has fixed this. Also your temps are WAY to low, about 30-50C to low. Mine will sometimes do that for the first layer of the top infill with Slic3r, but once two more layers are on top of it they are solid.by zerodameaon - Printing
What firmware are you using? It is a value you have to change in firmware for your axis.by zerodameaon - Printing
So you uploaded preconfigured firmware but did not actually configure it to your specific setup? If so that is why it did not work, there are a lot of settings you need to configure to get you up and running off the stock firmware. Is this firware marlin, sprinter etc.?by zerodameaon - Reprappers
The issues would be compounded. First you should calibrate all your axes.by zerodameaon - Printing
If you are using 1.8 degree you calculated correctly, it might be a issue with micro stepping on the Z axis or disabling z axis when not in use. . Make sure the line #define DISABLE_Z is set to false in your configuration.h. If that does not work you can disable micro stepping by pulling the jumpers under the stepper driver(assuming you have RAMPS) and then run the calculator again. You should geby zerodameaon - Printing
Did you have the printer working before you changed the extruder? If not, what software are you using? Try raising the extruder 10mm and measure, if it raises anymore your step/mm have not been calibrated right. What are you using for Z axis drive screws?by zerodameaon - Printing
Can you adjust your Z end stop down any? Also are your Z axis steps per mm set right?by zerodameaon - Printing
QuoteDisruptiveTech It's a poor artist that blames his paint brush. That saying does not really apply here unless you mean it in the sense that a artist buys a brush without any bristles and paints a horrible picture then tries to blame it on the brush. He would be to blame for trying to use something broken from the start. Even vegetable oil is not enough to get these working right, I tried aby zerodameaon - General
Not necessarily lower the temp but adjust up or down until you have the best layer adhesion. Enclosing the printer can be as simple as putting a towel hanging around it but out of the way of hot and moving parts to stop drafts, putting a cardboard box over it, or building a full enclosure.by zerodameaon - Printing
Just toss it and accept your losses and get a real Jhead or E3D. I have been down that road with one of those and they are complete junk, save yourself some time and buy a real E3D. The company that sells these a lot is GeeTech and their "specs" are way off, and PLA will not work with it.by zerodameaon - General
I use that, only needs one hole to line up and you have a good range of spots for the other one.by zerodameaon - General
Blue tape no hairspray, works better then blue tape and hairspray and just hairspray on glass for me, but now I use neither, I gave that airwolf stuff a try and it works pretty good. When it cools down the prints start loosening up and it sounds like breaking glass, if the part is unbalanced and wants to tip without support it just falls over at about 30-40.by zerodameaon - General
Quotearroyo Thanks for trying AstroPrint out. We're looking for feedback and reading about what you guys are talking about here is really helpful for us to focus our efforts. We're definitely looking into allowing users to start a print from the web and doing more development on the streaming video part to ensure that prints won't be compromised. Also advanced settings is getting really close toby zerodameaon - General
Some spools have batch numbers on them, but that is the manufactures batch number more then likely. Nothing to say that they did not just pour in a new bag of plastic pellets half way through and change the quality.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
Maybe one absorbed more moisture, even if you have handled them the same after you bought them there is still some time unaccounted for at the factory, just a theory.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
You should print a proper V5 fan duct, sitting that far away is better then no fan but not as good as it can be, it also looks like 30-40mm not 3-4.by zerodameaon - Printing
So some interesting issues cropped up last night that I cannot find a fix for. When bed leveling was working the printer would do its G29 but then not move down to the bed to print, it would lower a few mm then print in mid air. Now after I do the G28 and it homes all 3 axes and the Z probe servo works, it does not want to start G29, it just lowers the z axis without ever engaging the z probe orby zerodameaon - General Mendel Topics
I went to the local electronics store, frys in my case, and bought a 34a 500w single rail PSU, desoldered the unneeded stuff and used that. What country are you based in and that will help people give you a more accurate list of vendors.by zerodameaon - Reprappers
Find out they sell filament makes me more annoyed now that the Microcenter up in the bay area got shut down and replaced with a Walmart grocery storeby zerodameaon - General
I have given AstroPrint a try and I do like where it is headed. At the moment I do not find the split between local UI and the website based UI to be very friendly when I am working remotely. I still have to remote into a PC on my network to use the local UI or have my girlfriend start the print for me. Also maybe an expert settings panel for the cloud slicers as well as streaming webcams(if theby zerodameaon - General
I bought Makerbot PLA filament for my first two rolls(didn't know any better) at .5lb for 25 bucks each. I have since started buying Frys Shaxon PLA and ABS at 25 bucks for 1kg and I will say I have less issues and better print quality with the Frys stuff then that junk Makerbot sells. I cannot speak for the other name brand filament makers but this is my opinion about shaxon vs makerbot so takeby zerodameaon - General
I bought a cheap all metal hotend similar to the E3Dv5 and it was junk on my DIY printer having issues similar to what you are talking about. I had nothing but jams with PLA no matter what I did, but ABS was ok, my determination was it was the junky hotend. I bought a real V6 and i use PLA, ABS, TGlase, whatever I can throw at it, it will handle just fine with no clogs or jams. We do need a littby zerodameaon - Reprappers
PrintToPeer supposedly has something that analyses pictures of a print every 10 layers and can pause the print if there are issues. I have yet to see if this feature really exists as by the time I get home from work I have forgotten about PrintToPeer, but I am going to look into it this week. PrintToPeer is roughly the same as OctoPi. I like OctoPi but I feel it needs more features before I go baby zerodameaon - General