That did not work. Here is what I'm getting. The issue is that after the autobed leveling is complete, and the system waits till the hot end reaches 235, it sits at the last position height. Once the hot end hits 235 and it begins to print, it drops all the way down to pressing on the bed, and begins. I want to reduce 0.1mm to that drop, so it doesn't go down so much. I made the change, andby Gannicus - Reprappers
QuoteMindRealm The closer the number is to zero, the closer it is to the height of your nozzle. To lower the nozzle (as a result of auto leveling), the number must be closer to zero: -5.0 is closer to zero than -5.1, and reduces the distance between the probe and the nozzle. Thanks for the breakdown, too early in the morning, and math is not one of my strongest things. But here's the problem,by Gannicus - Reprappers
Quotejrcaster Try your Z probe offsets. Thanks for that. My Z offset is a negative. As in -5.1 So should I go -5.2 or -5.0 to raise it? Normally I'd just test it myself, but don't want to crack the glass in this situation.by Gannicus - Reprappers
First layer is too tight. It's skipping and smearing which naturally makes my print all lumpy and bumpy. My question is, I've tried adding a 0.1mm Z raise to the g-code after my autobed leveling command, but it doesn't work then. Where am I looking to make this change so that once the auto bed leveling is complete, Z raises just a tiny bit?by Gannicus - Reprappers
So a .4 nozzle is too big to print anything less than .2...safe to say?by Gannicus - Reprappers
Do I need to upgrade my hot end to a E3D V6 in order to print finer detail than 0.2? I've tried 0.1, and nothing actually sticks. People go down to the micron level with their Prusa I3's, and I would love to know how it's being done. I have a .40 nozzle using 1.75 ABS filament with a hot bed. Thanks!by Gannicus - Reprappers
REMOVEDby Gannicus - Reprappers
Anyone?by Gannicus - Reprappers
Quotejrcaster Remember your home position is 0,0 for your x,y axis. That means that your opposite corner is 200,200. Measure your offset for your probe to your print nozzle and calculate in millimeters where you want the probe to land. There is also a section you will have to enter the offset to get the printer to print. Yeah that's kinda what I thought, but going 155 on the back I'm alreadyby Gannicus - Reprappers
This is what I currently have set for this...but everytime I G29, the box it is making is in the center of the 8 x 8 platform, and try as I might, I cannot get this damn thing to extend to the edges. // set the rectangle in which to probe #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITIONby Gannicus - Reprappers
I've been so busy during the holidays...but back at this now. I've got the Auto Bed leveling working now, just need to dial in some numbers here and there, but I have another question. Couple questions. 1) Once the autobed leveling is complete, the head is WAY too far off the bed to print. Am I supposed to manually adjust this in the slicer settings? Or does the auto bed leveling know how farby Gannicus - Reprappers
QuoteNargousias I looked and found a specific mention to disable the Max Endstops. I had teh same issue and could not get G29 to work. #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS After that the G29 did work the first time once. Make sure you have the z axis well up before you run it and be ready to pull the plug. After that initial run I ran the G28 and then the G29 and my x started lowering and popped outby Gannicus - Reprappers
Quotejrcaster If the tram is being bent by the micro switch it, the micro switch action may be too stiff. A microswitch is a microswitch. They don't come in different stiffness.by Gannicus - Reprappers
QuoteWaltermixx QuoteGannicus Really need some help here fellas. Here is what I get returned when running the G28 and G29 commands: SENDING:G28 >>>g29 SENDING:G29 Bed x: 50.00 y: 50.00 z: 6.08 Bed x: 150.00 y: 50.00 z: 6.08 Bed x: 150.00 y: 150.00 z: 6.08 Bed x: 50.00 y: 150.00 z: 6.08 Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.00 d: 6.08 planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.00 z: 1.00 echo:endstops hit: Xby Gannicus - Reprappers
Really need some help here fellas. Here is what I get returned when running the G28 and G29 commands: SENDING:G28 >>>g29 SENDING:G29 Bed x: 50.00 y: 50.00 z: 6.08 Bed x: 150.00 y: 50.00 z: 6.08 Bed x: 150.00 y: 150.00 z: 6.08 Bed x: 50.00 y: 150.00 z: 6.08 Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00 b: 0.00 d: 6.08 planeNormal x: 0.00 y: -0.00 z: 1.00 echo:endstops hit: X:134.00 Y:67.50 Z:6.08 The auby Gannicus - Reprappers
I know a few of you guys out there have this thing running, and have one quick question. I've got it all done, when I home with a G28, everything homes as it should. I issue a G29 to initiate the auto bed leveling sequence, and the Z prob extends, triggers, retracts then does nothing. It doesn't continue on to the other three locations. Not sure why that is happening. Has anyone run into that?by Gannicus - Reprappers
Quotemikez104 QuoteWaltermixx Also double check that the M3 bolts holding the y-belt connector is tight... mine would loosen, so I put locktight on them, and locking nuts... As I posted several posts back, I have been trying to track down weird wobbly print issues. You can see the photos on page 21 of this thread. Well last night I leveled the bed for the tenth time and started to print and iby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx Also double check that the M3 bolts holding the y-belt connector is tight... mine would loosen, so I put locktight on them, and locking nuts... I need to do the exact same thing Walter. I plan on taking most of it apart this weekend to install proper tensioning pulleys for the X and Y axis, and during that time, I'll locktite and locknuts on those parts. The nuts already gave oby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier Gannicus, check your bushings they should be well tightened and with no cracks. If they cracked (most of mine cracked) try to fix them with CA glue. If not, it's just a question of setup. Set your rods a bit more away from eachother. That will reduce the existing clearance. There's some gap betwen bearings and the rods. Remember the bed must keep on sliding easy, with no noise. Ahby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone have slop in their Y sled? Not front to back on the Y axis, but side to side.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier QuotelouspinusoCan you post pictures of that Extruder that you got? I'm looking at some different options and I'm not quite sure how I'd hook up an E3D to my printer (everything I find on ebay is just the hot end so I'm not sure what else I need) Thanks. Sorry I don't have better picture, the machine is working. As you can see I machined a teflon holder to maintain the hotend (iby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier I agree. Check your bed level, it looks too low. Then look at this troubleshooting guide : You have : "walls not touching" ; "Lines grouped by pairs" ; "Walls not touching" This all sets me up perfectly. Thanks guys! I leveled my build plate glass on all four corners, but it seems as though 0,0,0 bows down a bit. Will have to level from there. Thanks Guys!by Gannicus - Reprappers
Here are my current slicer settings. Can anyone answer why my base layer doesn't look like injection molded plastic like it's supposed to? Instead it looks like I'm printing ramen noodles, it delaminates, etc. The rest of the print as you can see looks great thus far. a) ABS b) 235C extruder, 110C bed c) First layer height 0.3mm, subsequent layer height 0.3mm d) Speeds are broken down as suchby Gannicus - Reprappers
Quotelouspinuso QuoteWaltermixx Sorry forgot to post temps... My bed is at 100. my extruder is between 225 and 230 usually seems to work well... if overhangs are an issue or look like a challenge, i drop the temperature a bit :0) Ok, I'll try using 100 for my bed with Garnier Fructis hairspray tomorrow. I loctited my extruder hot end tube to the aluminum cooling block it was coming loose froby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
That sucks Zav. I plan on ordering the E3DV6 bowden here as soon as I can.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx Here's a review of the Folgertech Prusa i3... on youtube it's about 25 minutes long This you Walter?by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy QuoteGannicus Sorry to keep making so many replies guys, but I notice on every Prusa kit BESIDES this one, the idlers have tensioner screws in them. My Y axis belt is tight (though it could stand to be a bit tighter) but my X has a lot of slop in it. I don't like the idea of the metal tension clips, as they must interfere at some point, and would rather have a proper adjustment forby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Walter! Will try that out!by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry to keep making so many replies guys, but I notice on every Prusa kit BESIDES this one, the idlers have tensioner screws in them. My Y axis belt is tight (though it could stand to be a bit tighter) but my X has a lot of slop in it. I don't like the idea of the metal tension clips, as they must interfere at some point, and would rather have a proper adjustment for it. Does anyone have a STLby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants