Quotedougal1957 QuoteGannicus So after switching to the good filament, I've noticed a marked improvement already. I have two quick questions. 1) Why is the bottom of all my prints printing like Ramen Noodles. Instead of smooth 100% glass like surfaces? You can see this example in the first two pics. 2) How can improve the sag in overhangs? In the SAG pic, that is just the 20mm hollow calibratiby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx i will be moving the extruder fan power to the 12volt power supply as well, because any time i am using the printer i want it on... i think it makes the best sense that leaves that mosfet available for a print fan, for better PLA prints... Walter, I just soldered it directly to the board. It's on every time I turn the printer on.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
So after switching to the good filament, I've noticed a marked improvement already. I have two quick questions. 1) Why is the bottom of all my prints printing like Ramen Noodles. Instead of smooth 100% glass like surfaces? You can see this example in the first two pics. 2) How can improve the sag in overhangs? In the SAG pic, that is just the 20mm hollow calibration cube from Thingiverse. Tryiby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekonto89 QuoteGannicus Quotekonto89 Hello guys, I also had an issue with the heatbed, when it reached 95 degrees it would take 5 minutes to increase by one degree!!! So I used a sheet of the foamy stuff that you wrap fragile things to insulate the bottom of the bed and when I heat the bed for a print I cover the top with a piece of cardboard!!! I remove it when it reaches temperature just befby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNlh205 I ordered my kit last week and received a confirmation email but I had some questions for folger tech and have not been able to contact them. I've email and phoned with no response, so have anyone had success contacting them and if so, how? Thanks. Nope. They are one of the worst companies I've ever had the displeasure of working with. Product was good. Price was great. ( The only reby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Well boys and girls...we've got SOMETHING! And it's better than nothing! LOL It's a lump of shit, but it's MY lump of shit. haha! It was exactly 10mm on one side, but my nuts fell off the belt plastic under the heated bed during printing. Both of them. Gonna put some loctite on those. I have a feeling the inaccuracies that occurred halfway up the cube are from that. Though I'm unsure why it eby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekonto89 Hello guys, I also had an issue with the heatbed, when it reached 95 degrees it would take 5 minutes to increase by one degree!!! So I used a sheet of the foamy stuff that you wrap fragile things to insulate the bottom of the bed and when I heat the bed for a print I cover the top with a piece of cardboard!!! I remove it when it reaches temperature just before the print. It really heby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks guys. I'm not sure why it looks like it is too high, because it literally is one papers thickness off the glass. I can get a piece of paper under the nozzle at 0,0,0 and still have some drag. In all four corners. It just seems like the material isn't coming out melty enough, or quick enough as well. I'm going to the store today to buy some of that Garnier Fructis max hold and try that. Iby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteisonoob Gannicus, If your nozzle is not going down, your z limit switch may not be configured properly, i havent read the whole thread, so I'm not sure what state your printer is in, but if you move the Z-Axis up manually 10mm and then tell it to home and it doesnt move, your Z endstop may be giving out a "TRIGGERED" command. Send in an M119 command to check the status of your endstops. Theby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
How do you do the skirt?? Here is a video of where I'm currently at. Seems like the ABS coming out isn't as thick or liquid as other videos I've seen. It's pretty much dry and hard looking as soon as it comes out the nozzle. I'm running it at 235c. As you can see, I don't get any filament till a minute into the print, and which point, it's too late. My heat bed settings are only 85c, it doesn'tby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Got it all figured out. I just deleted the "G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle" from the gcode. However...my issue is that it isn't laying down enough to stick. It goes to the center to begin printing, and nothing comes out till it's halfway through the first couple outlines. By that time, it's too late. It comes out super slow, and too thin I feel to stick to the bed. I'm using dooms101 configuration.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelouspinuso QuoteGannicus Anyone want to buy a completely built Prusa I3? Apparently, I'm an effing retard. I've spent now...4 nights...about 15 hours with a COMPLETED printer, and can't print a god damn thing. I've tried Pronterface, Cura, and Simplify3D (that name is a total lie by the way) and they all do the same thing. First, I've got my heated bed leveled, so that at every corner, tby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks guys...I've calmed myself...and will really crack down on this this weekend to get it running once and for all. I just wish there was some way to really pick your brains. A web forum takes too long to get replies etc. LOL I know the issue now is that I don't know how to use the software. I know that. It's all software issues at this point. I don't get why all four of those programs turn tby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone want to buy a completely built Prusa I3? Apparently, I'm an effing retard. I've spent now...4 nights...about 15 hours with a COMPLETED printer, and can't print a god damn thing. I've tried Pronterface, Cura, and Simplify3D (that name is a total lie by the way) and they all do the same thing. First, I've got my heated bed leveled, so that at every corner, the hotend nozzle is a paper thby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelouspinuso QuoteGannicus Got it. Had to push it in harder, and twist it. Finally grabbed. Tried to print a test box, and from home to start printing, the nozzle lifted way higher than the paper thick closeness I had set previously. And just squirted out black strands all over the place. Why would it raise up higher than where I had set my homes? I want it right on the glass, not 1/4 inchby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Got it. Had to push it in harder, and twist it. Finally grabbed. Tried to print a test box, and from home to start printing, the nozzle lifted way higher than the paper thick closeness I had set previously. And just squirted out black strands all over the place. Why would it raise up higher than where I had set my homes? I want it right on the glass, not 1/4 inch above it.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelouspinuso QuoteGannicus Here's the new news. During the day, I got to thinking...the Folgertech Marlin software on their Google Drive was probably the cause of EVERY problem I was having. So, I downloaded the fresh copy of Marlin from github and Dooms101 configuration.h he posted on page 2, and recompiled and uploaded. Plugged in the LCD... and poof. Magic. Everything works. EXCEPT for tby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's the new news. During the day, I got to thinking...the Folgertech Marlin software on their Google Drive was probably the cause of EVERY problem I was having. So, I downloaded the fresh copy of Marlin from github and Dooms101 configuration.h he posted on page 2, and recompiled and uploaded. Plugged in the LCD... and poof. Magic. Everything works. EXCEPT for the hotend. Here's where I'm aby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier That voltage is much higher thant the Pololu's calculation formula (provided in the Folger's drive thru...) shows. Some of my motors was too hot with some loose steps. So I did the calculation and found that values. My i3 is now pretty quiet, the motors are cold, and everything is working propperly. Choose the values you like. I have the same display. Working. Here's my configuraby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Steve, I just gave in and relocated the X end stop to the left. No matter what I did, it didn't want to work on the right hand side. /shrug In the end, cutting some wire ties fiddling with wire loom was worth the time spent instead of the Vodoo Magic I was trying in order to get it to work properly.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier 1) Check pololu's output voltage. You need 0.18v on extruder, X and Z drivers ; and 0.66v on the Y driver output. 2) Check Marlin's configuration and library installation, it's a soft problem. 3) Your glass plate/support plate is not flat. It's maybe two fails working together. Try to flip or rotate it to get a better balance between hi and low points. Actually Zavashier, Johnby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
So here are my morning list of issues I need to get fixed, if anyone has had similar issues and found the fix, I'd love to hear it, as I am out of ideas. 1) Extruder isn't extruding. Extruder just turning one click forward, then one click back it just won't pull in the filament. - Everything else works correctly, VREFS have been adjusted to the amounts specified in this thread by the Folgertechby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Is the pin out on the RAMPS side for the extruder not the same as all the other steppers? Cause I have all five pinned out the same way: GREEN YELLOW GREY REDby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Actually what it's doing now is just going back and forth again like I have the pins on the ramps miswired. It WAS feeding to where I could see it go through the extruder...but now it's stopped, and instead just turns one click to feed, then the next click to reverse, ad nauseum. I don't have a problem with figuring things out like this, but when the same thing doesn't create the same result...by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx Keep going. Do 100mm. It has to come out eventually. It doesn't. It gets to a point where it just like...skips on itself, and stops feeding it into the hot end.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx Make sure the extruded is up to the correct temperature first using Either the lad screen or repetier host, also make sure you extruded fan is turned on. Once you get it up to temp you can load the filament and then use repetier host to extrude about 10mm Hope this helps? The plastic will not go through unless the extruded is hot. Extruder is hot. I put in the test piece of abby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Walter. One last question. I got everything working. But only one hole on the top of the extruder allows me to feed in the filament. The one on the left just comes out the bottom of the hotend. The one on the right, which is over the actual hotend nozzle will not go through into the hot end. ??by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone know why I'm getting this REALLY high pitched whistle when my Z axis stops moving? It's REALLY loud. If I turn "Motors Off" the sound goes away immediately.by Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy As Gannicus posted - for the Y end stop, if it's at the back it's a MIN, if at the front it's a MAX. You need to change the firmware and the position on the RAMPS to suit. Same with X, if it's on the left it's a MIN, on the right a MAX Steve So Steve...How then if I have my X on the right, and change the code in config.h to 1( MAX rather than -1 MIN ) and move the ramps connectorby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelouspinuso QuoteGannicus Nope, you're absolutely right. Y neg should go back, Y pos to the front. X pos to the right, X neg to the left, and Z pos up, Z neg down. If one is going the opposite way, just flip the connection on your ramps. Right, so that all seems good so my next question is where do you have your y end stop, front or back? And is it set as a min or max end stop? This is wheby Gannicus - Prusa i3 and variants