Okay, I bought a Prusa i3 kit a couple of months back. In short, I'm not too impressed. When I opened the box, all most of the parts looked great. The rods were nicely sized without sharp edges, the threaded rods were well-packaged and straight, the laser-cut acrylic frame for the Z axis looked very nice. One of the Z axis bearing holders looked like it had been printed with a missed step, whicby SupraGuy - Reprappers
Encoders are good things, and I like them. DC motors are problematic, even with encoders as the accelleration is difficult to get right. As far as CNC goes, all of the ones that I've seen (I work with several machine shops) either use high feedback servo style motors, or steppers. Practically all DIY CNC machines use steppers for the same reason that we do. 2D printers do some things a littleby SupraGuy - Reprappers
how about the eBay vendor who sells the folger i3 kit? $10 USD for what looks like the whole set...by SupraGuy - Reprappers
QuoteBooda Quotejrcaster I ordered my kit on 17 November, UPS label generated on the first. Here it is the fourth and UPS has not received it yet? WTF! I ordered mine nov 15 and being delivered tomorrow. I'm in ontario, canada and also found out got nailed for $127 duties on my shipment: This is why I've stopped dealing with cross border companies that only ship via UPS. the last time I receivby SupraGuy - Prusa i3 and variants
I didn't know where in the world you are. If you're an Aussie, I'd probably look at Jaycar's Aus site. I've bought a bunch of stuff from Rod Elliot's DIY audio circuits site which comes from that part of the world, and that's one of the suppliers that he often cites for part numbers to populate his boards. Might be cheaper, but it'd definitely be less shipping.by SupraGuy - Reprappers
Voltage drop is the normal expected response to a power supply reaching it's power capabilities. If it is supposed to be able to supply 30A with a 220VAC supply, it may supply somewhat less with a 110VAC supply. Switch mode PSUs basically rectify the incoming AC, then switch it on and off really fast to keep the average voltage at the target value. There is a limit to the duty cycle that it canby SupraGuy - Reprappers
Are you just looking for the fibreglass board with 0.1" spaced holed drilled through it, or the stuff with copper pads on those holes? I know that I have several pieces of each more than large enough to cover that size heated bed, but since I picked that up at a local Active Electronics, and at that, several years ago that's probably not helpful. Off the top of my head, I'd look at digikey, moby SupraGuy - Reprappers
Right, I forgot to ask because I distracted... X, Y and Z Home positions... looking at the printer from the front, I have the Y axis homed with the bed all the way forward. Moving it + moves the bed away from you. the X axis is homed all the way to the right, moving it + moves it to the left. (This seems weird to me, but is how I interpreted the assembly instructions.) The Z axis homes to aboutby SupraGuy - Reprappers
I'm used to being able to handle DIY stuff better than this. I could probably work it out myself, but since I'm somewhat stalled Steps per unit. I'd been working with the default settings in Marlin for initial configuration, and the X and Y settings of 78.7402 seem reasonable with the motors and cogs that I've got. I haven't actually measured travel, but it seems at least very close to 100mm whby SupraGuy - Reprappers
Okay, I have the X, Y and Z axis all responding nicely, current settings all seem good. I had a minor issue with the wiring to my X axis motor, one pin wasn't making good contact, and the motor would switch directions randomly. Very weird. Thanks for advise and info. I have the limiters set a touch below what the motors are rated for, should be safe, and that's a good place to start.by SupraGuy - Reprappers
Okay, so I've got a Prusa i3 that I want to tune, and am wondering about current limits. I found a recent post by user Plankton that seems very helpful in setting the 4988 driver current limits. The values that he posts seem to indicate a slightly higher limit for the Y axis (Makes sense as the Y axis usually carries the print bed with it in the designs that I've seen) than the X axis. For theby SupraGuy - Reprappers
What firmware did you load onto your Arduino? If you load the Marlin firmware on (Only one that I've tried myself), you have to modify the config.h file to have the baud rate for the serial port. IIRC, the default is 250000. You can change this to the 115200 that you are using, or change pronterface to use the same baud rate.by SupraGuy - Reprappers
I'm having the same issue. I'm also not sure that + and - are going where they're supposed to. I can reverse the direction in the Marlin firmware, correct?by SupraGuy - General
I'm experimenting with different solutions. Avoiding "the other OS" isn't so much an issue, so that leaves a few more options open, but it's likely that linux support would be a big plus. I haven't loaded up FreeCAD yet, though from looking around, it seems to be a front-runner. Solidworks is kind of out of my price range (And in my profession, using the software without a documented license couby SupraGuy - 3D Design tools
For the printed parts, did you have to do any finishing machine work, or sanding? I've seen a lot of 3D prints that have a rather rough texture, which would have a somewhat negative effect on laminar airflow (Though for certain shapes, that could have a sort of "golf ball" effect on actual drag.) How about for the propeller shaft opening?by SupraGuy - Look what I made!