I am having the same issue :s Don't know what to do eitherby Govahnator - General Mendel Topics
Hoeveel vraag je er voor? ben zelf van Vilvoorde.by Govahnator - Marktplaats
I guess what you are suggesting is instead of using resistors? i have the necessary resistors laying around..by Govahnator - Reprappers
I don't really understand your question, can you be more specific?by Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi Guys, I've read a few topics about this but it's still not quite clear. I have a PNP sensor (LJ12A3-4-Z/BY) on my Prusa i3 wired with 2 10k resistors, wich works fine. Now i want to install an NPN (LJ12A3-4-Z/BX) sensor on my Mendelmax and from what i've read a NPN doesn't really need those resistors and in some cases not even the 12v. How do i wire this NPN sensor to my ramps?by Govahnator - Reprappers
I tried with Both ground pads, i reached 100 degrees Thanks guys.by Govahnator - Reprappers
Actually i didn't wire the ground to both pads I will try that and keep you guys updated. thanks!by Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I have issue's with the mk3 alu heatbed, i have 2 of them from different suppliers and both have the same issue. One can't get over 70c and the other 74c max (12v 19A psu), i tried to use a second power supply for the bed alone but that didn't change a thing. I also noticed that the front of the bed is much hotter then the back (And by that i mean the front and the back of the alu side)by Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I solved the issue, but i will explain what happend. A part of my 3d model ( 19.5 cm model) wasn't being printed, i figured i had the firmware configured to only 20 cm travel and then it just prints the object till it reaches 20cm and ignores the rest of the model ( it does close the part so if you dont know the model you can't see anything is going wrong). Cheersby Govahnator - Printing
QuoteJamesK Sorry, didn't mean to sound so negative. All that matters in the end is how it works - if you get the results you want it's all good! Hi James, You didn't sound negative, i made this topic to discuss the possible pro's and con's, wich we did, and i am glad you shared you're thought about this subjectby Govahnator - Reprappers
You wired it correctly, but you need 2x 10k resistors ( wich i did) or 1x10k and 1x15k , 1x 10k and 1x 20k is also done in the follow picture.by Govahnator - Reprappers
Ok guys thanks for your expertise, i will test this soon and provide some test results Just one more thing that comes to mind, the original mendelmax 1.5 uses a spring between 2 regular nuts on the threaded rod as well. Cheersby Govahnator - Reprappers
QuoteJamesK QuoteBut there is backlash in x and especially in y within the nut, wich makes it a whole different story. Um, exactly the opposite actually. The play in X & Y is intentional and reduces the tendency of the lead screws to force the x-axis in those directions. The lateral position of the gantry should be determined solely by the linear shafts - that's what they are there for. If yby Govahnator - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist The X axis may be movable by hand in the +Z direction, but gravity (specifically the weight of the X axis) should keeps the nuts loaded so antibacklash nuts aren't required unless the mechanism binds. If the mechanism binds I think it would be better to fix the binding problem, because it implies that things are misaligned, than to solve it with antibacklash nuts. Whatby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi, I am still building the printer so i don't have pictures of print's, but i can do a test as soon as the printer is finished. Even without testing this (cheap) upgrade, i think it is a must, especially when using auto level. There is a lot of backlash on these nut's (before this upgrade i could move the leadscrew atleast 2mm within the nut and thereby move the whole x/z axis by hand): Whenby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I am almost finishing my mendelmax 1.5 (rework) build. I am using leadscrews for my z axis, and i got rid of the heavy backlash using 2 nut's and a spring in between. Take a peek at the pictures What do you guys think, Cheersby Govahnator - Reprappers
This is weird , mostly the issue is that it starts printing to high from the bed. The easy solution is to put your z home stop higher.. You are not using auto level, are you. There is a firmware fix for this, but what firmware are you using?by Govahnator - Reprappers
Since everything started cooling and the led turned off it must be the power supply. When you plug in the power supply at this moment, not connect to the arduino, does the led turn on again? If not your power supply died. I had a similar issue a week back, i did a 4+ hour print for the first time, and print stopped, but bed and hot end where still heating, i bet the power supply got to hot and sby Govahnator - Reprappers
Aren't you afraid of possible heavy vibration's?by Govahnator - Reprappers
I would go with the marlin RC, I came from repetier because it used to have more options but i prefer the new marlin, mainly because i wasen't able to get the auto leveling to work like it should. Just compare the two configuration.h files and copy the settings to marlin.by Govahnator - Reprappers
So you want to build a i3 of that size? I think you would be better of with an upscaled mendelmax 1.5 or even better a core xy design. What is the torque of your nema 17 motors? For a printer that size you should go with nema 24 motors or really latge 17's. I can also advice you to use the arduino duo 32 bit platform with a radds shield, it is much faster and multiple extruder ready, wich is a mby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I know i opened a bulldog extruder thread, but this is about the mk8, so i made another topic wich makes the info more accessible to other people. A friend of mine suggested to use a mk8 1.75 mm bowden extruder ( already bigger hole on top) to use with 3mm filament, is this a good idea and what kind of pulley do you guys suggest? I have a NEMA 17 with a Holding Torque of 5.5Kg.cm layiby Govahnator - Reprappers
I am aware of that, But i still think 70 euro for a hot end is to much, but hey the new 1730 hot end that is on kickstarter is 125 euro, that's just madness. The real problem is that market for these thing's isn't that big, but the costumer shouldn't have to pay more because of that imo. If i start a company and i don't have as much customers as i would want to, or need to, customers aren't gby Govahnator - General
I think if you want to be safe you should make a clone/ original hybrid, heatbreak and nozzle original, heatblock and heatsink clone ( if u can find good clone parts, buy multiple heaterblocks as spare) Just received my v6 clone today (7 us dollars) A friend of mine bought clones before, wich were terrible. I am very pleased with mine, very nice finish, it really is an exact copy (maybe not frby Govahnator - General
I have decided to go for the orginal bulldog xl extruder guys, i found it for 120 euro's = 132 usd. Seems like a good price. Thank you all for the adviceby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi, i have one of these bed's, i print directly on the aluminum side. It is a bit a pain to get prints to stick properly, but i had that with glass and carbon fiber as well. I bought it in china for 11 dollarsby Govahnator - Reprappers
Thanks for the reply's guys, I have the feeling i need to buy the original one to be safe. i found one ( it should be original but i dont see the bulldog logo on the extruder ) at a german retailer for 119 euro +10 euro mail. Wich is cheaper and faster then to buy direclty from rrd. . The robotdigg clone doesnt have the foot indeed, but i read that the foot wich comes with the original doesn'by Govahnator - Reprappers
Thats true, the robotdigg extruder has it as well, i am not sure to buy the robotdigg xl or the original bulldog xlby Govahnator - Reprappers
Thanks for the info guys, especially you The digital dentist. Gmh39, that bulldog xl looks really interesting, to bad you haven't tested it yet. . I really can't find a review of that extruder, just one buyer who rated it 5 stars on a retailer site. Robotdigg does seem a popular manufacturer, i am doubting to buy one of those for 75 dollars, or an original one from a retailer for 133 dollar . Iby Govahnator - Reprappers